jrixn1

When inserting, are you stretching your ear up using your other hand?

Sorry, but you're only allowed to pick two out of three... Which is the least important?

What is the issue with the guitarist's setup? You can't hear him on stage?

It seems inefficient to pair a 900W amp with a single 12ohm cab, as like you say you're effectively turning it into a 300W amp. In that case, the GR Bass Mine One would be about the same volume but save £500. My understanding is that the 12ohm option is more for when using multiple Two10s (three 12ohm cabs = 4ohms). Barefaced website says "safe with up to 800W if you're running fairly clean sounds". I used to run a 600W @ 8ohm amp with a One10 so I think you'd be fine using the T900 with a 4ohm Two10 - just don't cane it.

EQ is generally an active control (offering both cut and boost) and so no I wouldn't expect it to work in passive mode. What are your other basses which have EQ in passive mode? Are they a G&L by any chance? (Which is the only bass I can think of right now which has passive high and low EQ i.e. cut only, no boost.) On the other hand a tone control (like on a P bass) is a purely passive control - but most people wouldn't refer to it as "EQ" (even though I suppose it technically is EQ i.e. it's affecting the response at certain frequencies).

I'm quite similar: bass → Mojomojo → Microbass 3 → RCF 👍 I think one thing to be aware of with your ART setup is that changing its volume will also affect the signal you're sending to the desk.

Yes, I also wonder if the much older tablets might struggle - e.g. Mini 2 is from 2013. Myself, I got an iPad gen 5 (2017) as I'm also using the tablet for sheet music so wanted the larger display.

Yes, I do exactly this and it's great; I since sold all my bass amps and cabs. If your preamp of choice doesn't have independent volume control, you can put a clean boost pedal between the preamp and the powered speaker.

We also use DL32R, and I did the same thing earlier this year (i.e. gave up waiting for Mackie and bought an iPad). One thing to bear in mind is that although Master Fader v4 needs iOS 8, v5 needs iOS 11. When you update the DL32R to v5, is it possible you might want a crossover period with your iPad (e.g. if it turns out the Android version doesn't quite work)? If so, you'll need an iPad with iOS 11. There is a list of those here: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT209574

Just to check, when you say "interface" do you mean specifically something to enable to get the bass signal into a computer for recording? If you mean it's just for playing along to the iPhone, you can pick any number of preamp pedal which has headphone output and aux input - TC Electronic SpectraDrive, Ampeg SCR-DI, etc. Or cheaper, a Zoom B1on.

Yep, press both pedals at once and it goes into bypass mode (which is also a tuner).

What's an HPF300? Sounds interesting but couldn't find anything Googling.

You mentioned previously that slow shutter speed might be a concern. What were the ISO, aperture, and shutter speed of your photos from 4th & 5th Nov? Knowing this, would it help estimate if shooting at, say, f/5.6 would be acceptable (when you go back to that same venue/lighting)?

But (quoting from the manual) "The 1/4” Output is a TRS jack so the complete SansAmp signal passes through the tip, while the ring connection carries the SansAmp signal without speaker simulation." So for example if you used a TRS jack to XLR cable, would something odd happen (I think it will reverse the polarity of the speaker-sim signal then sum it with the non-speaker-sim signal)?

I believe the cut-off frequency (in this case, 41Hz) does not indicate that the curve starts at 41Hz. Instead, it indicates the point where 3dB of attenuation is achieved. For example, borrowing the diagram from a few posts up, the green curve shows HPF with cut-off of approx 100Hz, not 400Hz. So it's possible a 41Hz HPF might attenuate a little at 50Hz.