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Then we get to the 80s, an era of excess and pointy spoons.

Mahogany spoons are also considered desirable, puddingistas state that they give a softer more focused flavour. The sought after 1950s flame maple cap spoon might be the way forward. Great care must be taken not to drop your mahogany spoon, headstock breakages are not unknown (little known fact,the bowl is called the head). On a different matter we must now evaluate the construction of the pudding metalwork. Do pre decimal coinage threppeny bits (brass) coins sustain the flavour longer than later cupro nickel coins ?

To ensure an accurate answer we need to know the binding energy of the bass and the constituent parts. The energy release from splitting the bass, E = MC2 will cause a mass defect.

The sauce needs to be thin and use vintage Brandy, this allows the pudding to breathe better resulting in a fuller tone. Modern thicker sauces inhibit the pudding's response.

This is eminently do-able, however the proposed method does require some slight modifications. You will need a tuner to measure the frequency of the guitar string, know the string diameter (in SI units) and either measure the mass of the length of string or calculate the mass per unit length based on the density. Use the appropriate equation and out will come the answer.

Good thought on the later addition of ferrules.

The gap at between the control plate and scratch-plate could be signs of a Friday afternoon job. The uneven string ferrule spacing concerns me more. I can't readily find when cnc started on Fender production. However it is a mass produced guitar and we can consider three scenarios. The ferrule holes could be CNCd when the body is shaped. Should be perfect. If the ferrule holes are not CNCd then I would be very surprised if they were not drilled using custom machinery, all four holes and steps at once in a jig. If we are drilling the holes by hand I would be highly surprised if the holes were not located using some form of template at the least. I may be completely wrong. I would want unscrew the neck and have a look at the pocket, I would also want to look under the scratchplate / control plate.

Apologies if misunderstood. I share your concerns over the potential ramifications, what constitutes reasonable adjustments is a minefield.

Disability is one of the "protected characteristics" Age Disability Gender reassignment Marriage and civil partnership Pregnancy and maternity Race Religion and belief Sex Sexual orientation I am glad I am not on the receiving end of this one, "reasonable adjustments" were a minefield in my previous job, even when you were committed to doing the right thing.

I enjoyed doing mine just for the challenge and to prove I can. Lots of info on internet. Tool costs add up - fret crowning file of some sort (I am not skilled enough to contemplate the triangular file), fret wire cutters, levelling block / diamond plate. Other tools you can make yourself.

Depends what the lines are filled with. With the one I did I was able to dig the lines out with this little number https://tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/fret-slot-cleaning-saw-double.html?SID=52e8937ca019a00ca2a2d3db7cf309f0. Not Cheap but it made sorting the bound fingerboard easy. It is possible to wander off line at the start. I made an aluminium edge to clamp against the fingerboard and act as a guide. The other useful tactic was filling the slots with ptfe sheet and then filling any missing fingerboard tear outs / divots with superglue and wood dust. A magnifying glass really helps with this. http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Repair_Tools_and_Repair_Techniques/Cleaning_up_after_sloppy_fretwork_fixing_chips_in_the_fingerboard.html

Somewhere in there should be the Dubster - and very pleased am I with mine.

Alternative take on the same bass - passive DiMarzio model Js. I liked the tone of the original MEC pickups on mine but felt they lacked output. No such problem with the model Js and they have the growl, so much so that my other half thinks my G&L is 'politer' and more rounded.

The polyester resists thinners well, the headstock surface and decal will not, I suspect they are fixed with nitro lacquer. If you find out how to deal with this situation I would like to know (having a similar situation to resolve). This looks useful https://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/2013/03/13/spraying-the-neck/ I am considering paying someone to sort mine out.

The orange(ish) varnish will probably remove with thinners. The original finish and decal will also do the same. New decal, serial number and headstock refinish might be the order of the day.

Sounds (excuse pun) promising. I like TI flats and have them on most of my basses except my 5 striinger where they seem too floppy, these might be the answere.

Having seriously moved to the 5 string world about 6 months ago I am only now getting towards my 4 string speed & fluidity of playing (I do not practice as much as I should). The biggest challenge has been the narrower string spacing and wider neck, surprising since I play quite a range of 4 strings and db. Fiver is now the bass of choice, having a fretted bottom E makes so much of my playing easier and more 'solid'.

We play this, sometime I should listen to the original.. The B D E riff fits with what the guitar players play. and just seemed instinctive to drive the song along. Sometimes I follow the the descending chord changes, other times I keep the BDE riff going over them. An interesting error jazz variation (related to my ability with the 5 string) occurred last week. I followed the descending chords a 5th lower. Not unreasonable , guitarists did not complain.

Review please, they are also of interest to me

I would also think about redundancy - having spares so you can carry on when kit decides to stop working. In our case the lightweight monitor power amp and speakers can double as pa mains if the worst happens. As mentioned by others there will be an increasing amount of quality used analogue kit soon, bargains for all

I had one in the late 70s, great sounding amp. I would like to try one with a modern high efficiency cab - am thinking Barefaced compact etc here. Pity about the width though...

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