3below

As per Matt, when faced with a similar problem fitting Hipshots to my SG bass I found strips of plastic milk bottle ideal,. You just need to find the right thickness plastic

Depends on what result you are hoping to gain

Bought a looper pedal from James. Excellent communication, tracked delivery and rapid arrival. Many thanks.

Exactly

What are you building from the cast iron / aluminium frame? Great shape bass, I built my first bass in 1974 - short scale telecaster made from elm coffin boards. Local coffin maker would give them away, try finding elm at giveaway prices these days.

I put a small amount of wax on the threads on mine and every so often check they have not seized (my polepieces that is). As you note changing the volume has a significant effect on the tone (same on my L1505 as well). What height have you got the MFD from the strings?

Posted twice

Great looking bass, who stole one of your E string polepieces?

Just like mine and TI flats are the business on it.

Totally agree, I have a few basses (nothing seriously special but fairly difficult to replace or find again) that have increased in value. At my time in life I should move them on, I can't play them all, I don't need a 'recording fleet'. I have my go to bass (£375 Gibson) but I enjoy the rest now and then which is the problem. Collect for gain at your peril, if you get attached to them all is/may be lost on the investment front

Mic it up and feed into pa or a power amp and humongous bass cab

I fondly remember using the Wayne Kerr Bridge in my University time, happy days

Have used my Fender Super 60 1x12 valve guitar combo for recording bass. Obviously no earth shaking volume but a really good warm tone.

Walking bass-lines book bought from John. Excellent communication, well packed and superfast arrival. Deal with confidence.

Yet another on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1981-Kramer-Stagemaster-Bass-Aluminum-Neck-Rare-Vintage-Dimarzios/264251852748?hash=item3d86a347cc:g:cvgAAOSwHOlcYfRN Not an Imperial and not as nice looking as the one you pictured. USA location so much price creep with import duty & VAT.

Remove bridge, make the string holes deeper (avoid drilling through body), refit bridge. When stringing up, place spacer nuts / old ball ends on the strings. This moves the ball end back into the body, silks etc now behind bridge saddles, Depends on what bridge the DMZ has, mine is BBOT fender style, others have Schaller (branded Kramer), have also seen Badass types fitted. Mine does a bit despite the body weight. Largely but not totally cured by a wide grippy strap and forearm resting on upper bout cutout. Having stopped my SG bass neck diving by putting Hipshot lightweight tuners on it I am going to try some of the Schaller lightweight M4s. I might try a quick change of bridge to a Badass (borrowed from a bass I have from you) and see if that helps. I have also considered getting a replica body made with a longer upper horn. Bonus feature of the DMZ4001 is the standard P size pickup. Plenty of readily fitting alternatives available if the DiMarzio is not to your taste.

I have a DMZ401, bought from this forum at a price that I am still amazed at , thank you to one BCer. Great bass, really well built. Never had any tuning stability issues even in a rapidly temperature changing venue. Plus points, the DiMarzio pickup, the way the bass almost 'plays itself'. The strings respond back with great elasticity / boing. Hard to describe but a pleasure to play, the string response is unlike any other bass I have in a good way. Clarity of notes is superb, no deadspots, even response over most of the neck. It is, as Shaggy states, 'toppy' even with TI flats. Downsides, it is heavy and needs a good strap to prevent neck dive. You will need to do a small (non visible, diy) mod to prevent string silks going over the bridge. It is one of my keepers, in the late 70s / early 80s it was the bass I wanted but bought a USA Fender P as the cheaper alternative lol.