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About LowMoFo

  • Birthday April 19

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    Essex - sorry.

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  1. Hi all, Very many thanks for your ideas & suggestions, certainly a LOT of helpful stuff for this one and for future projects. I've decided to go down the brush-on route & see where that takes me. It may work, or I may be seething again in the not too distant future, time will tell I guess. I have to say, I'm enjoying the learning curve still, and once again, thanks heaps to you all for helping such a noob!
  2. Hi, the elbow grease isn't an issue, but thanks for the heads-up. Andyjr1515 has also been kind in sharing his technique, which we know works v well, so time for a deep breath & give it a go. Thanks again Sam.
  3. Hi Sam, Thanks for your reply, I'm inclined to agree regarding too much too soon, more fool me for following the instructions on the can to the letter. I'm gonna go down the brush route, I've waited this long so a few more weeks is not gonna be too testing. Thanks again for your advice, sir!
  4. Dammit! Had a nasty feeling this may be the case. Thanks for the quick response. I don't have a good enough compressor or gun for a two-part clear coat, so do you have any recommendations for alternatives please?
  5. Hi all, I'm struggling with my build still, so I'm turning to you in search of ideas/suggestions. In August, I clear-coated the beast using Rustoleum polyurethane from rattle cans over spirit stain. Both the body and the neck were hit with five duster coats on day one, then two more duster coats and three thicker coats, on day two, then they were put aside for six weeks each. Came back to them, and the clear coat is still pretty soft. I began wet sanding, 800 though to 2000, putting it aside for a day between each grade to aid gassing off. It's now been 8 weeks or so, and it is STILL soft. For example, if I lay the neck on a towel, it marks the clear coat, just under it's own weight. I'm told quite a few people use this product, so would love to hear about their experiences please, i.e curing time. I see three options available to me: 1) Leave it alone for what'll feel like eternity. (much twiddling of thumbs) 2) Strip it & start again. (Grrrrr!) 3) And this is what I'm wondering, can I apply something to the clear coat to assist in it's curing? I've been reading about gently applying denatured alcohol in such circumstances, or using blush remover, but apparently blush remover will have no effect on poly. Learned low-enders, I need your wisdom please!
  6. Hi Pete, skimming through this glorious porn thread, paused by chance to read your post, am part way through a fretless 5 build, and have bought a set of D'Addario Chromes for it, so was particularly pleased to read your impression of these strings. I now have even less patience regarding finishing this beast!
  7. Funnily enough, so do I. I am indeed going through the grades, and not skipping any on the way, just seems daft. So I've ordered some Meguiar's M105 cutting compound, for use with cotton hand-buffing pads, hoping that'll be ok. Thanks again for your recommendations and advice, all very much appreciated. 🤘
  8. Ok that's great, thank you for that, if I'm sanding to 1500 grit, should I just go to medium & fine compounds, or still start with coarse?
  9. Whaddup, lords & ladies of the low end, So I'm now into wet-sanding the beast, and am almost at the point where I can start to buff, which I intend to do by hand, as I'm an absolute buffing novice... The clear coat is poly, and I intend to wet-sand to 1500 grit, so now I seek recommendations as to suitable brands & grades of compounds please. Any & all advice is greatly appreciated, as always.
  10. Never heard of anyone using olive oil before, but v interesting to note. I've seen people recommending using baby oil, but don't fancy that idea. To be honest, the swift evaporation of naphtha is exactly what was steering me towards it, but the fumes kinda dictate outdoor usage, which also doesn't appeal. The olive oil is becoming more appealing, the more I think about it. Thank you for your tips and advice!
  11. FWIW, I had buzz in a few spots on my (also unlined) fretless, caused by 'trenches' worn into the fingerboard after 36 years of use. These trenches were located at points where 'popular' notes live. I faffed around with relief, saddle heights etc, but the buzzing stayed. In the end I tapped the nut off & gently sanded the fingerboard down to where the trenches were either gone, or too shallow to have any effect. Nice. So if you haven't already, loosen the string & hold it away from the 9th 'fret' as you hold it up to the light & check from various angles As for the setup, I have my nut slots down to where G & D are level with the fingerboard. A & E slots are VERY slightly above the fingerboard to allow for the increased movement in the thicker strings. Drop the saddle heights and it will sound like a fretless. Higher saddles will make it sound like an upright. Btw, this was done with the neck set straight - super-slight backbow, so once strung & tuned it has a nice slight relief, and sounds way better. Best of luck.
  12. Hi Chris, yes I have. Quite a lot in fact, but opinions vary as you can imagine. The one question I can't find an answer for is the pre-soaking one, hence my asking on here. YouTube quests produce the same lack of info on that point.
  13. Greetings all! So the neck is about a week away from being cured, so I need to pick thy collective opinions/preferences for the next bit please I've seen people recommend wet-sanding with soapy water, others say naphtha, others say different mineral spirits. Using naphtha apparently makes it harder for the un-lacquered bits (tuner holes etc) from swelling, as it evaporates before soaking in, which makes sense. I've read very little (only one or two accounts) about using other spirits for wet-sanding. So now I'm wondering which methods are preferred by fellow BCers And if soapy water is NOT recommended, should I pre-soak the wet&dry in naphtha/spirit first, or still soak it in water? Or am I over-thinking this again..? Good people of BC, hit me back please!
  14. Ah... I may have some naphtha buried at the back of a cupboard somewhere. I thank you.
  15. Head and shoulders? Should I use the kind for sensitive skin, or the one with conditioner? As for Windolene, I did consider this, but feared it would be too 'grain-lifty'. Not sure that that's an actual term, but you get my point. Gentlemen, as always, thank you SO much for your input!
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