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About LowMoFo

  • Birthday April 19

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    Essex - sorry.

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  1. Oh ok, that’s good to know, flapper it is. Thank you for the advice & heads-up.
  2. Ok, cool. Thanks for the info, Matt.
  3. That’s a cutting disc, same principal as a circular saw, but thanks for getting back to me.
  4. Hi all, I’m struggling to find an angle grinding disc for wood, with a 22mm arbor, max diameter 115mm. I’ve been all over Amazon, eBay and Screwfix, all without success. The only ones I’ve seen either have a 16mm arbor bore, or if 22mm, they’re for steel or stone. Am I looking in all the wrong places, or missing something obvious? Cheers guys
  5. Guys, you rock! I followed your advice & went DI from the driver to the interface, and it works perfectly! Tried recording a passage with the driver on & off, shows up well in the recording. Awesome people of BC, I owe thee all pints!
  6. Heheh! Me too. Thanks loads though for trying.
  7. The pedals are going into the active input of the amp, exiting through the headphone socket into the interface. And yes, I have input monitoring switched on. This is most confusing. There is probably a v simple solution, but right now it is well beyond my simple brain... Thanks guys.
  8. Thanks for the replies, the driver I'm using is a Behringer BDI21. There is no pass-through output. Yes the effect pedal is before anything gets to Logic Pro. I neglected to mention that after the pedal, and before the interface, I'm going through my amp to eq prior to logic pro as the inboard eq just confuses me. The reason I'm using pedals rather than inboard processing is simply that I don't understand Logic Pro enough yet.
  9. Hi all, I'm not sure if this is being posted in the correct category, but here goes... I'm trying to record a bassline into Logic Pro X, and am somewhat stumped. The chain goes like this: Bass - Driver pedal - Interface - Laptop. When I record (or even just play) the signal is dry. How & why does Logic Pro strip the signal of the effect? This also happens if I use say a chorus pedal instead of the driver. I know there are send/returns, plugins & all that, but I want to know how to record the driven signal, not the dry one. I am an absolute simpleton when it comes to home recording, the last time I went anywhere near this was almost 30 years ago, so please could any answers/suggestions be simpleton-proof? Thanks all!
  10. Hi all, Very many thanks for your ideas & suggestions, certainly a LOT of helpful stuff for this one and for future projects. I've decided to go down the brush-on route & see where that takes me. It may work, or I may be seething again in the not too distant future, time will tell I guess. I have to say, I'm enjoying the learning curve still, and once again, thanks heaps to you all for helping such a noob!
  11. Hi, the elbow grease isn't an issue, but thanks for the heads-up. Andyjr1515 has also been kind in sharing his technique, which we know works v well, so time for a deep breath & give it a go. Thanks again Sam.
  12. Hi Sam, Thanks for your reply, I'm inclined to agree regarding too much too soon, more fool me for following the instructions on the can to the letter. I'm gonna go down the brush route, I've waited this long so a few more weeks is not gonna be too testing. Thanks again for your advice, sir!
  13. Dammit! Had a nasty feeling this may be the case. Thanks for the quick response. I don't have a good enough compressor or gun for a two-part clear coat, so do you have any recommendations for alternatives please?
  14. Hi all, I'm struggling with my build still, so I'm turning to you in search of ideas/suggestions. In August, I clear-coated the beast using Rustoleum polyurethane from rattle cans over spirit stain. Both the body and the neck were hit with five duster coats on day one, then two more duster coats and three thicker coats, on day two, then they were put aside for six weeks each. Came back to them, and the clear coat is still pretty soft. I began wet sanding, 800 though to 2000, putting it aside for a day between each grade to aid gassing off. It's now been 8 weeks or so, and it is STILL soft. For example, if I lay the neck on a towel, it marks the clear coat, just under it's own weight. I'm told quite a few people use this product, so would love to hear about their experiences please, i.e curing time. I see three options available to me: 1) Leave it alone for what'll feel like eternity. (much twiddling of thumbs) 2) Strip it & start again. (Grrrrr!) 3) And this is what I'm wondering, can I apply something to the clear coat to assist in it's curing? I've been reading about gently applying denatured alcohol in such circumstances, or using blush remover, but apparently blush remover will have no effect on poly. Learned low-enders, I need your wisdom please!
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