3below

[quote name='dyerseve' timestamp='1479677516' post='3178420'] How does kit get in such a state??? Look at this on eBay [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282262477697"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282262477697[/url] [/quote] Has the makings of a novel. what has that cab seen and how it got to that state Depending what the cab is made from (Baltic birch or mdf) it might be a good starting point for a DIY cab considering the cost of quality plywood.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1479335256' post='3175828'] It's OK....I'll be finish sanding it with the stubble of my chin [/quote] For a finer finish send bass to me and I will use my beard after your stubble

Lovely looking wood Surely pre-slotted is cheating. As BC builds develop I would be expecting tree felling at the least, and following the example of [url="https://paulsellers.com/"]Paul Sellers[/url] (who I find inspirational about hand tools) filing your own saw blades.

Sound Control Glasgow 1990/91, USA telecaster on my part (which I still have). Great guitar, really good price, excellent service above and beyond. No wonder they went out of business

[quote name='gazzatriumph' timestamp='1479246474' post='3175101'] Not sure you will get a proper German one for that money, a Rockbass yes, Used German made ones tend to go for around £600 - £700 but if you see one for that money let me know [/quote] Both of mine bought at 'that' money (£350 to £450), both are German (The Warwick website will tell you all about your bass given the serial number), both from excellent BC members, both in very good condition I started on Warwicks with Rockbasses that were about £150. The quality of them (German and Chinese) is outstanding. Dare I say it, the one Chinese 5 stringer I had (BC purchase again) was comparable to my USA G&L for build quality - flawless. Bide your time, they will appear on BC .

[quote name='grandad' timestamp='1479314044' post='3175564'] A 3 year BA (Hons) in the 1970's was 9-5, 5 days a week, + every lunch time in the pub. [/quote] Ditto BSc (Hons) in the same era. Weds afternoon was free for recreation

There are degrees from universities and 'degrees' from 'universities'. Good advice from mooper, spend your money wisely.

[quote name='Swaffle88' timestamp='1479244023' post='3175069'] I've seen a corvette standard (German) for £300 just as a private sale.. Few scrapes here and there as its been gigged quite a bit.. Also a few guys here have messaged me about basses their selling which has been appreciated! It looks like 2nd hand is the way to go cos the prices brand new are shockin [/quote] Way to go. Just be warned, GAS can become addictive at the 'bargain' prices.

The Warwicks are in this parish. Wait until a good condition German corvette appears at the £350 - £450 mark. Can't go wrong for the money.

Bought various 6 string Fender USA bits from them (when prices were sane). Reliable and good quality at the time.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1478799464' post='3171770'] Hi I'm sure that there will be many great suggestions (for what it's worth I've been very impressed with the reasonably priced DiMarzio P pickup) but the Squier P bass is a perfectly acceptable framework to put a decent pickup into... [/quote] +1 on this. From personal experience with basses I own, the DiMarzio approaches the G&L MFD P bass type. Both pickups have plenty of output and do the business. Both of these pickups have greater output than some active basses I own, they also have considerable tonal palette with a simple volume / tone setup. Add to the list: Entwistle P bass pickup (Neo)

EB2 will hopefully be hard to move on Ebay / Gumtree / Preloved etc since it is now known on BC. As above there are not a vast amount of them about. have Cash Convertors been told and is the serial number known? Good luck with recovery, some people

[quote name='ash' timestamp='1478637596' post='3170563'] [url="http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/131997420784?_mwBanner=1"]http://m.ebay.co.uk/...784?_mwBanner=1[/url] Opinions? Looks like a car crash bass to me! [/quote] Well adrift of the quality of my 1970s JB EB3 type bass (long since departed from my care). Build quality is not a phrase that springs to mind looking at the pictures. Car crash? more like a train wreck. My £500 will be better used elsewhere.

Sufficient time to build the drum shells then Crack on .......

[quote name='Twigman' timestamp='1478539451' post='3169727'] i was window shopping at Thomann yesterday...I had 3 items in my basket...I left it last night at £187...this moring I thought sod it I'll buy...went to checkout...price jumped to £232... had to decide that was too much....so didn't bother...now frustrated [/quote] Might be worth trying again in a few days. Some businesses have demand / interest led pricing in which the price changes. A well known online bookseller (and everything else these days) is a particular proponent. I have seen the same with a tool supplier when I purchased a bandsaw, it went up by £5 overnight.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1478461656' post='3169209'] Yes - I agree, 3below. I also look forward to finding out how it should be done Certainly got no idea at the moment! [/quote] I was relying on you for this one It is time someone invented 'perfect finish', you just spray it on after 80 grit sanding, it self levels, fills large flaws, does not run and sets in 1 hour (ideally less) and repels dust (small insects, dog / cat hairs etc). After the hour a quick buffing with T cut or similar results in a gloss finish that is rock hard yet impervious to dings. Perfect finish is a one coat solution. In other news I just saw a flying pink pig pass over the garden.

My first tactic would be purchase a sanding detail stick (aka fret dressing / crowning stick £5 tops), masking tape or fret protector strip and a short length of straight metal (you can purchase a fret rocker if you want). Remove strings, adjust neck to flat and crown frets spending a bit more time on any that are 'high'. It is unlikely that there will be any major issues on a bass of this quality. Put strings back on and adjust truss rod, saddles and neck shim if needed (there are many good setup guides on youtube). It really is an easy DIY job and with a sanding detail stick you can not do any significant damage. If this does not work then Grangur's advice is on the money. At that point it is a matter of cost - benefit - how much do you like the bass (unless you can diy level and recrown).

It will be 'interesting' getting the finish inside the curves. I look forward to finding out how it should be done

Am thinking that the issue was how much wood was left above the wing cut outs etc. The answer is above from Beedster. As for DIY bridge adjustment it depends on how much your action needs lowering. Three to four mm I would go for it DIY personally. With my DB I spent £12 on a replacement bridge (Chinese maple) and fettled it based on the original one (my original bridge was 'buckling' and increasingly of no use).

Best advice is wait until one appears for sale on BC. Not that long ago one appeared on an Epi EB bass here for very sensible money, they do appear regularly. With the supertone, the allen screws that lock the saddles laterally can present sharp edges to your palm. Fit them from underneath and the problem goes away.

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1478378054' post='3168776'] That's looking really nice [/quote] Thank you Thinking about finishes, which you did reply to previously on your EB3 type build. I am aiming for brown (like your LP Junior) - Chestnut brown mahogany spirit dye?

[quote name='scrumpymike' timestamp='1478371565' post='3168735'] Well done! IMHO W machine-head alignment suits headstock design. [/quote] Thank you, I could run a BC poll lol

Slightly better pictures

Fair progress with good technique today. Only one design blunder that I would do differently next time. Tried 3 times with this photo, poor quality image Neck pocket is super fit, better than anything USA made that I currently own Time well spent on constructing template and much improved router skills. I pondered leaving the pocket in old Fender style, i.e. loosen neck to access truss rod. Decided not to, ho hum hence the design error, truss rod adjusting rout way too big for what is required. Looking like a bass now. design error now stylishly covered, totally intentional. Laminations, set square and careful centre line measurement get the machine heads in line. Extra care taken with drilling following Andy's helpful lead in this aspect Choices now, traditional machine head layout or W style? Finally the moment of truth, string alignment with bridge. Have my measurements, centre line and 'skill' produced something that aligns correctly? Amazingly the answer is yes