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Legs - Z Z Tops

Hi @TigerPhoenix welcome, and as others have said, great venture, good luck with it, keep us posted 👍

Don’t suppose you still have the scratchlate details?

A very warm welcome and best of luck with your venture.

After a quick read. . . . seems Ublock Origin is obsolete on Chrome, but is still supported on Firefox.

Sorry Spondz, the joke was that the chest is for his first birthday, but he's already nearly three years old. I seem to have missed that deadline.

Hi all, Sorry for the skinny stringed thing, but frankly, I do trust bass players advice more 😉 I’m looking for some advice on a truss rod issue with a Schecter Jeff Loomis 7-string I recently picked up. I could return it via EBAY, but I do love these guitars and they are fairly rare these days so want to get some opinions before making a decision. I could be worrying about absolutely nothing as well. I am not 100% on what it's supposed to look like, so please tell me if so! I feel the truss rod nut has sunk noticeably into the wood behind it. In truth I have never dealt/noticed this sort of thing before, and I could be worrying about nothing. So please inform me if that is the case! When I tighten the nut, it moves deeper and adds tension, which makes it hard to judge how close the truss rod actually is to its real adjustment limit. I have maybe a half turn or so from its current correct position for 9-52's at half a step down before it max's out This is with the Truss Rod with most relief. Truss rod when straight with 9-52 strings. Right now the guitar is tuned half-step down with a light 9 to 52 set. Even with light strings, the rod feels like it is not far from its upper range, which is what made me look closer. The compression could be masking the rod’s true behaviour, so it is not clear whether the rod is genuinely near its limit or simply compressing wood. My plan is to go from a standard 7 string 9-52 set to a 6 string 10-52 Skinny Top Heavy Bottom set with a .70 gauge low string for the low B (This is the standard setup for Jeff Loomis back in the day), but I want to make sure the neck and truss rod are healthy before adding more tension. I’d appreciate thoughts on whether the cavity looks normally worn or genuinely crushed, whether a shim repair is appropriate, and whether anything suggests the neck wood itself might be unstable. In truth I have never dealt/noticed this sort of thing before, and I could be worrying about nothing. Cheers! PS: One final point for context. When I back the truss rod nut out, there is not a lot of space behind it. The cavity does not have much room for inserting a shim of meaningful thickness. To rebuild the seat properly, I may need to remove a small amount of wood at the bottom of the cavity to create a flat surface for the shim. That is a permanent modification, but I am willing to do it if it is the correct mechanical solution. I would appreciate opinions on whether this approach is appropriate given the condition shown in the photos.

Well to be honest from my perspective anyway it was a joke ! Of course I don’t ‘hate’ him! I’ve never met the bloke! Just have always found his voice irritating. But! As others have said musically speaking the smiths had some great moments.

Black Friday is the final, big hurdle that might see a number of fallers. I’m wavering on a full, level 1 fail (‘Ray GAS for a change), but I may just avoid it by doing some bass surgery with parts I have in my bits and pieces case.

Lynx th' jinx? (Deputy Dawg for those under 65)

John Wayne Is Big Leggy - Haysi Fantayzi

Just got a set of these and they are the best isolating headphones I’ve ever used, they sound brilliant and sound great at a lower volume. A bit closing the door after the horse has bolted as my hearing is shot 😆 but excellent none the less!

Mister Long Shanks: O Mother I Am Your Fantasy - Gong

Hello all! Really need your help on this one. I'm having an issue of pickups being out of phase - on their own they sound as should, no buzz or noise. If blended together - there is only hi-mid/treble content left. I have searched on google and in forums. Couldn't find an answer that would really help me. My understanding from answers is that hot and ground wire should be switched on P pickup and that it help most of the individuals who asked for a solution. Well, I'm using EMG system, not really versed in electrical stuff too, and I'm just stuck. Before contacting EMG for support I thought I'll pop here. Everything is passive. Pickups are - EMG GZR and EMG MMHZ, going to a balance pot and to volume. Please let me know if you need a picture of specific part from specific angle, bass is dismantled near me, so I can take it any minute. Thank you all in advance!

I have asked the seller a question (about three days ago) and he's not responded...yet.

The bass is now in the Black Friday sale for £99.99!

My mistake? Berk.

Agree on both counts. Both bands clearly have something but whatever it is it’s lost on me