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wow so similar - what serial number is yours? they can't be far between them

@floFC I'll check my saddles when I'm back in Riga in 2 weeks' time, MY Anti CV P lives out there with my little Nux " amplug" until our wedding gig ( I treated myself) ho ho If anyone wants the patinated "Antigua" P scratchplate, it will shortly be up for dibs on the BC marketplace ( it is definitely 1 ply ). It's a standard 13-hole plate, so suitable for US or Mexican standards. ... I have swapped it for a nice 3 ply Black scratchplate to match the black blocks ... as double antigua was a bit much I think it looks fab now.

I bought one back in 1998 from the Bass Centre when it was in Wapping. I had just signed a record deal and was given £5k to buy new gear. I bought a Musicman Stingray, a Hartke HA7500, a Harke 4x10 and a 1x15. I only had a little bit of money left and needed a second bass so I bought an all black Status Shark. I loved the look of it but I really didn't get on with it but that would be 100% down to me not knowing how to get the best out of it but it was a lovely bass and looked amazing.

youth gone wild - skid row

too much, too young, too fast - airbourne

Recently bought some emg pickups from Brian, brilliant communication and delivered next day! Would happily deal with again

That blue baffle looks really good! However, two Monzas is more than enough for anybody.

Hi , I’ve got the pro version and I think it’s really good, I believe the difference is the pro has more amps, cabs and pedals to choose from, I’d say it’s worth the difference in price, others more knowledgeable will probably advise more, this thread might be helpful

Do you have to translate the transcript for them ? 😂 Dave

I post everything on there already, Dave, so they should know about it already. Maybe the Russians or Chinese have discovered it!!

Just one question (I asked before, but it got buried in this burgeoning thread). How bright is the screen, and it bright enough to see outdoors in direct sunlight?

I checked, and you are correct - the spare driver I have has a cast chassis. I'm now on the hunt for some possible presses candidates, and will have to see if @Bill Fitzmaurice will do a few calculations for me. Thanks all - the BC hive mind at its' finest! JRK

You can't, not really. Any mic including any drum mic is going to pick up everything that happens on stage to a greater or lesser degree as well as picking up audience noise. If you have meters on your mixer you can see the background noise. That's the thing; you have two concerns about bleed, the smearing of your sound due to unwanted noises coming in through the mics and of course genuine feedback. Pretty much any mic on stage will be a directional mic and they all favour sounds coming straight at them. Cardioid mics have a 'dead spot' down the other end of the barrel and with super cadioids the dead spot is on the side. Anything pointing at the mics is going to reduce your gain before feedback and increase the cr*p coming through the PA. At low sound levels you can get away with monitors behind you in that you avoid feedback but you will still degrade the sound for the audience. It's a judgement call as to how much bleed you deem acceptable. It's possible it will be unnoticeable compared with room reverberation and audience noise. The one thing I always say though is that whatever works in practice is good.The science helps make good choices and gives you a lot of help when things aren't working but the human interaction between you and the audience is the important thng. The tech just gets you there. I sing a little, I've a strong voice but can be pitchy if I can't hear the monitors. My best happens when I can hear what the audience hears and the sound levels on stage are really well down. I love in-ears generally but somehow at low levels (ie no drummer) and floor monitors I find singing a lot easier. I can understand those who like to be in front of the PA even if technically it poses problems.

I recently purchased a 1995 Japanese Fender Jazz - a ‘62 reissue with dark cherry foto flame finish. It’s one of the smoothest necks I’ve played and it sounds wonderful with a set of Thomastiks! However, the foto flame finish is very cracked and starting to peel away in some areas. I’m considering having it taken back to the wood and resprayed in a period accurate colour. I’m on the fence between Fiesta Red, Shell Pink or Black - all with a tortoiseshell scratch plate. Also considering a nitro, rather than poly, finish. Good idea? Any opinions on colour? There’s always the option to keep the foto flame…

What’s the word on the street as to when some more stock will hit the shelves? Feeling very left out ATM!