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I’ve been there, although ironically the worst gig I ever did (reminiscent of the famous Richie Benaud quote ‘there’s only three things wrong with English Cricket, they can’t bat, they can’t bowl, and they can’t field’, albeit in my case I was out of tune, out of time, and out of style) I was asked to join a Jazz Trio by a member of the audience who turned out to be quite well known….🤔

The truss rod is at the neck heel, however unlike the JMJ mustang there is no cutout in the body & pickguard to facilitate an easy adjustment using the StewMac truss rod tool (pic below) so you have to practically take the neck off to adjust it — a bit of a hassle if you don't get it right first time, and probably the reason why the bass has sat in its case for a few weeks before I got around to setting it up. The improvised card tool in question was not used in this process though.

I have them because they reduces error, I rarely use them, but when I do I’m glad I installed them

The wider the source the narrower the horizontal dispersion. It's why midranges are smaller than woofers, and tweeters are smaller than midranges. Side by side placement reduces the horizontal dispersion by half compared to vertical at the lower end, and raises the potential for combing at the upper end.

Phase shifts like that are normal, and don't matter, as you can't hear them. The dip and shift in the crossover region could be polarity related, the only way to know is to reverse the tweeter polarity and test again. It could also be time align related, which can only be fixed by moving the tweeter to get the acoustic centers of the tweeter and woofer the same. The shift at 100 Hz is probably port related, possibly indicating port tuning at 100 Hz. The 200 Hz dip could be from floor bounce. The best way to take measurements is outdoors, well away from boundaries, taking two measurements. The first is ground plane, with the mic a few cm above the ground. The second is with the cab on its back, the mic suspended above. This measurement will have a dip where the wave reflected off the ground meets the front wave at 180 degrees, the result of the baffle being 1/4 wavelength from the ground. The two are spliced to get the final result. You can do it in one step by digging a hole in the ground, putting the speaker in facing up, back filled with the baffle flush to the ground. It's how Roger Russell of McIntosh used to take measurements. When you take measurements 1/6 octave smoothing is preferred, as that's the limit of what you can hear.

Here's a chart that I made for dep gigs this summer. Not much to write home about, but it might save people time and it's good 16th-note rhythm reading practice: Coldplay - 'Adventure of a Lifetime' transcription

Template for a mousehole in the skirting board?

No matter the price point. It does seem so odd (to me) that someone would put those two bits together and think it looked ok.

I’ve have a replacement from Peach now that I’m happy with (though it did have a few issues I had to fix😬🤣). It sounds better too, it’s around 30% louder and has a fuller bass even though the pickups are lower so I think the other one has a preamp/pickup issue. My argument is they should never of glued those bits of wood together and sent it out of the factory. Guitarguitar will likely have a Cort account manger they can push back on stuff like this and get their money back, if that happens enough then Cort will have to improve their standards. For basses that they can’t get an acceptable match on, it would be better to spray them a solid colour, I’d of probably preferred that anyway.

I've got another thread about testing microphones. I bought a cheap Behringer reference microphone and it seems to work pretty well using it with REW to get a reference trace from my cheap Thomann powered speaker (EQ set flat, 4 10 second frequency sweeps at 0.5m in a large room with plenty of soft furnishings and curtains closed). I asked a query there which has gone unanswered that I wonder of the likes of @stevie or @Phil Starr can answer. REW also produces phase plots, and the one for the speaker is below. It shows several phase reversals, mostly well beyond hearing range. One just above 100hz probably relates to the reflex port and is to be expected. Another is just below 2kHz and is accompanied by a dip in the SPL trace. My question is: Does this make it likely my tweeter is wired back to front, and could reversing the wiring help eliminate the dip? Any other observations welcome (yes I know this is not a very flat trace at all, although it sounds fine and works well as a monitor).

I guess because this is a bass forum that the discussion is about bass and electric bass in particular, however for me when I think Hofner I think high quality acoustic instruments, particularly cello’s, violin, viola etc.

I used to be a purist until playing a festival stage at night and having every member of the band laugh as I started a song a semitone up.

It's common practice in my house, and beyond that is none of my business! 😂

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Iogrk4uDJko

I think the purists will say no, but I have them on mine as I’m a Newby to the big bass and I generally double between the DB and the fretless bass.

Worst was a project to use a Laptop and virtual Bass effects along with a MIDI controller for live stuff...it never worked out, I spent ages faffing about with doing technical MIDI control software stuff and making presets for Laptop virtual Bass effects instead of actually playing music, it didn't work live as I still needed pedals for tuner and foot switch MIDI controller and also needed the Laptop and audio interface, it was overcomplicated and wasn't musically inspiring (in fact it took away time I could've been playing instruments). Also I can't sell the software second hand to recoup any of that cost. Best is a Viscount Legend One 73, it sounds great and has reinvigorated my passion for playing keys (and ignited a new interest in Funky Hammond type Organ stuff). Something that opens doors to whole new musical interests must be a good thing.

I think it may be Montezuma Brown, as I’ve seen another (from 1981) that looks very similar.

Especially if the turd polishing will start with a decapitation.

For you TE hunters, there's a 2x10 and a 1x15 on FB now in Northampton, £90 each. And the 1x15 has got wheels (but possibly not the original driver), and both have had the XLRs replaced by Speakons. UK Music Gear Exchange group.

Show is SOLD OUT and I now cannot go due to my fathers worsening health. It’s the final date of the European Tour and I’m hugely disappointed not to be there. Seems a shame to waste the ticket.

@Phil Starr How many days did you spend doing this please? I'm using a rubber hammer (tent posts) and it's very, very slow. Actually it's even slower than that, I think that tectonic plate movement is quicker, I actually noticed species evolving around me as I was doing this. I'm trying to keep the hammer face flat, it is on a wooden surface as I don't have a metal surface close to hand (or even to hand at all). Do I need a different "soft faced hammer". There seems to be loads of Amazon, but not sure what I'm actually looking for. Do I need a different work surface? I've also tried compressed the grille between two pieces of wood and that didn't make a lot of difference. The general concaveness has mostly gone, but it doesn't look very flat to me at all. As it's now raining, I'm focussing on wrapping Xmas pressies. All advice welcomed Thanks Rob