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knicknack started following Line 6 HX ONE with Ampero footwitch and 3leaf Wonderlove Envelope Filter
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3 Leaf Wonderlove... having not found a new owner for my Proton, I've decided to put it into use but can't have two 3leaf filters sitting around. This one I prefer considerably, but it's not quite as pedalboard friendly. Knowing my luck with selling 3leaf stuff the asking price for these will be a grand within days of me letting it go (see original proton, octabvre Mk3 🤦♂️) This is the deepest, wahiest filter pedal I've ever had and the routing options are very useful. Boxed, Price includes speedy, tracked UK postage.
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Most likely @Mrbigstuff got it right with a 4 bolt neck refinished. worth checking the underside of the neck to see if there was ever a 3 bolt fixing (I’m guessing not!)
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I agree - lots of inconsistencies and to be honest I can't really say how accurate the description of it was, but to be fair it was fully disclosed as a parts bass and I bought it for the sound rather than any idea of value/collectability.. The only things dating the body to 1972 would be the neckplate (1972) and the pots (1970). Early '70s bodies do tend to be a lot lighter than late '70s, especially as most of them were still alder at this point, but ash bodied basses around 5kg were a thing even back then. There's also the possibility that it's a maple body - Fender did experiment with maple that was even heavier with ash in the early 70s - Steve Harris' original P bass is an example of this. There's not much bare wood visible so it's hard to tell, but the neck pocket is fairly intact and unpainted with no sign of it ever having been a three bolt, so I don't think it can be earlier than 1974/75. I'm also pretty sure it's not an aftermarket body. The pickup routing and neck pocket show the usual (poor) quality of CBS Fender, and the '70s pickup spacing is hard enough to find on aftermarket bodies even now.
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I can’t quite work out what’s happening with the neck, a S7 should have a bullet truss rod and 3 bolt neckplate , but the stamp reads 1977 4-Thursday, and to me the logo looks genuine , strange
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Storing a neck that is not attached to the bass
Jean-Luc Pickguard replied to Jeffskowski's topic in Repairs and Technical
The truss rod exists to provide force acting against the force applied by the pull of the strings. As there would be no string tension, I would slacken the truss rod off to prevent it forming a permanent back bow, wrap it in bubble wrap and store it a room temperature — ie not in the loft or shed. When I bought a Fender replacement P to J conversion neck, it came with the truss tod slackened off, so I slackened off the rod on the fretless it was replacing before packing that one away. -
Here is a 1970s Precision body which comes fully loaded. I do not know whether this is a Fender and it is being sold as not a Fender. (It has lots of the route marks to be a Fender but I can’t guarantee it is hence the low price.) The body was black but is now naturally finished. There is some minor routing inside. It comes fitted with: Fender Hi-Mass bridge Kiogon loom Brand new Seymour Duncan QPs its a heavy body. With the neck it’s around 5kg. Looking for £250.
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If you were starting today, what’s the best way to learn?
SteveXFR replied to Useless Eustace's topic in General Discussion
You'll be needing to learn to play with pick and fingers. -
There’s no way the neck ever had a bullet truss did in it. That’s a factory made neck.
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Sir Horace Panters “Ghost Town” Precision Auction
TimR replied to Lozz196's topic in General Discussion
It's the same with Elvis and Beatles memorabilia. It's only valuable to those who have memorability. -
Sir Horace Panters “Ghost Town” Precision Auction
TimR replied to Lozz196's topic in General Discussion
Which was my point about being valuable to Gen Xers for maybe the next 10 years and then lose value. -
I agree. The better preamps are not as important in live settings, for the most part (in my opinion), while the additional functionality of the X32 rack over the XR18 seems like a more useful thing to have.
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It's a multitrack recorder, using SD cards as storage. 16 tracks total, can record 8 inputs at once, and supports an unlimited number of virtual tracks / alternative takes (well, limited by the space in the card!). Built-in stereo microphones. Wide range of on-board FX. Power supply included, but it can also run on AA batteries. It can also work as an interface to control a DAW on the computer. https://www.zoom.co.jp/node/68/1000
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Independently footswitchable clean boost + VLE ('vintage loudspeaker emulation' low pass filter) and VPF ('variable pre-shape filter', a bit like a 'contour' control, scooping mids while boosting low/highs). Standard TS output plus balanced DI output (XLR). Original MarkBass power supply included (but it works fine on standard 9V supplies - I used it for years with a T-Rex Junior supply, you just get a bit more headroom if powered with 12V) Bypass can be buffered or true-bypass (switch at the bottom). It can work very well as a way to split the signal into FOH and an independent IEM rig or backline.
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I'm not as sophisticated as that I struggled for years to sing at all until I discovered that I could sing in tune when we had decent monitors. I can still only sing what I can hear and that almost always means the melody line only. Most of the singing I do is with my duo. Our 'act' is based upon getting the audience to sing along and I sing what we want them to sing essentially. I just provide a fuller sound in the bits we want them to join in with. It seems to work, much to my surprise.
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I bought this a while ago but then I changed my mind and it was too late to return it See all details about the preamp here: https://www.darkglass.com/en-gb/pages/tone-capsule-manual and here: https://www.darkglass.com/en-gb/products/tone-capsule Basically, it's a 3-band with lows at 70Hz, low mids at 500Hz and high mids at 2.8KHz with very easy wiring assembly.
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This stereo pedal has three distortion types, can save up to 3 presets as it is without any additional gear. It can, of course, be used with the Neuro hub etc and MIDI for maximum control and maaaany more presets, but I never really explored that, the pedal does all I wanted as it stands. The Neuro app, however, is very handy, as it gives you access to many parameters. The way I used it was to create the basic overdrive/fuzz sounds using the app, and then just rely on the unit's physical controls to adjust drive, blend etc to taste. It's essentially 3 dirt pedals in one, and you can modify each until you are bored . It can run two of the distortion engines simultaneously, and blend them, stack them, or output them in stereo. It can do too many things to mention, so if you're not familiar with the Aftershock it's probably best to have a look at this: https://www.sourceaudio.net/aftershock-bass-distortion.html and this (the demo focus a bit too much on the higher gain sounds, but it's excellend at low gain sounds too): It has heavy duty 3MM velcro on the bottom, which of course can be removed. The original rubber feet were never installed and are included, as well as the cable to connect it to your phone to use the Neuro app, which gives you access to a huge array of parameters.
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mcnach started following Battery life on Sire Z3 basses
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Just wondering what's people's experience with the battery life on the Z3 basses. I installed new batteries soon after I bought mine, in August last year, and I've just had to replace them (started to distort and make noise which fresh batteries cured), so about 6 months with moderate use. For comparison, every other bass I've had would last at least a year with similar usage (I replace batteries once a year to be safe, which works well for a Stingray). Has anybody noticed a shorter life on the Z3 compared to others? Just wondering whether my batteries weren't great, or if I need to schedule my battery replacements a bit more frequently on the Z3 (maybe replace every 4 months).
