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emyrarall

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  1. Up for sale now is my very rare Music Man Sterling bass. Not to be confused with the more entry level Far Eastern guitars with a similar name, this is the proper full fat Made in the USA EBMM Musicman Sterling. Whilst it doesn't come up as Honeyburst in the Musicman listing. It's exactly the same finish as my 5 string MM which is listed as Honeyburst. While the Stingray is the more common version played by many famous players, the Sterling I believe is a more versatile bass. The main differences is that the Stingray has an alnico pickup and more Precision sized neck whereas this one has the ceramic pickup which is capable of being more aggressive with more options due to the 3 way switch which allows you to select between series, single coil & parallel wiring options. This gives the bass that characteristic Musicman growl and colour. The neck is slimmer, similar to a Jazz bass and the body is smaller as well. This makes a big difference in long, live sets when the weight of a heavy bass can be really tiring. It also features a 3-band active EQ with bass, mid & treble and volume control. I've tried to illustrate any dinks in the photos and also some light damage to the back of the Musicman case. Overall it's a beautiful instrument in very good condition. Welcome to try it by prior arrangement. I've gone to 5 string now and can't afford to leave this lying around not being played. Would prefer a pick up but I will post TO THE UK ONLY at your expense.
  2. There is some confusion around this as my Stingray5 comes up as Honeyburst in the EBMM database, but can you tell the difference?
  3. My Sterling has just been posted for sale......
  4. Not to be confused with the more entry level Far Eastern guitars with a similar name, this is the proper full fat Made in the USA EBMM Musicman Sterling. The details for this bass from the Musicman website are: Serial # DO5017 Manufactured February 14th, 1997 Model BASS STERLING SUNBURST ROSEWOOD While the Stingray is the more common version played by many famous players, the Sterling is a more versatile bass. The main differences is that the Stingray has an alnico pickup and more Precision sized neck whereas the Sterling has a ceramic pickup which is capable of being more aggressive with more options due to the 3 way switch which allows you to select between series, single coil & parallel wiring options. This gives the bass that characteristic Musicman growl and colour. The neck is slimmer, similar to a Jazz bass and the body is smaller as well. This makes a big difference in long, live sets when the weight of a heavy bass can be really tiring. It also features a 3-band active EQ with bass, mid & treble and volume control. I've had this instrument since around 2005 and I've loved playing it but I recently decided to go up to a 5 string bass. A Sterling 5 string is really rare in this country so I bought a Stingray5 but find that I can't quite get the same growl out of it for rock music. However swapping back and forth is impossible so this has to go. In the UK they retail at over 2K and no longer come in this lovely sunburst finish. https://www.gak.co.uk/en/music-man-sterling-bass-natural-rosewood/25845 I've tried to illustrate any dinks in the photos and also some light damage to the back of the Musicman case. Overall it's a beautiful instrument in very good condition. Welcome to try it by prior arrangement.
  5. Ended up buying a second 210p. A big improvement and enjoy stacking them vertically 'on end'. Very practical on a small stage, and I can help the drummer out by turning one cab to face him if necessary. Still need to sort out some amplification. Which of the tc electronics heads would be the best match for these cabs?
  6. I'll be bringing along a 70's P bass, an Aria Pro II fretless and a MM Sterling. Also a pair of Markbass 210s and a shovel, in case I have to dig my way out of the car park.
  7. In reply to Chris, the reason I have this set up is that I already had the POD XT in my studio, and the power amp with a PA I bought for some other work. Buying the 210p was a quick and relatively cheap way of stepping up from a 150watt peavey combo. Down the line I reckon a two cab set up would be a good way of being able to respond to differing requirements, but a good power amp seems to be the only way of being sure that you're getting the best out of them. Appreciate all the opinions.
  8. The amp is the now discontinued STK VS10 and I strongly suspect that it's a bit of a dog. Thanks for all the advice which was pretty much in line with my own thinking. Guess I need to borrow a good power amp first, to see how much difference that makes. Cheers!
  9. I'm using a Line 6 Pod Xt Pro (with bass pack) as a preamp, into an old STK PA poweramp. This is rated as 500W per channel at 4ohms or bridged as 1000W at 8ohms. I'm using this bridged into a 400W Markbass 210p (400W at 8ohms), and being very careful in keeping the volume down on the amp! Sounds good at moderate volumes but doesn't maintain it's tone when playing with a band in a larger room. I'm thinking in terms of adding a Markbass 115p (400W at 8ohm) to push some more air. In parallel this would give me speaker capacity of 800W at 4ohms. Should I then only use one side of the power amp, so that I'd have 500W of power but the impedance is matched. Alternatively, could I throw 1KW at it regardless of the 8ohms rating of the bridged power amp? I understand that this could colour the sound? If I really need to budget for a new power amp as well, then I need to keep filling the piggy bank for a little longer.
  10. I was just about to start sanding and I noticed the side dots on the top of the neck. Are these inlaid or are they merely stuck on and varnished over? If that's the case then they'll disappear once I sand the neck. I've found this place for replacement inlays [url="http://www.smallwonder-music.co.uk/shop/default.asp"]http://www.smallwonder-music.co.uk/shop/default.asp[/url]? I'd just like to know what I'm letting myself in for.....
  11. Thanks Gents, These are just the kind of issues I'm concerned about. The bass is in very good original condition, must be quite valuable, but I've owned it since about 1980 (when I was fourteen) so I could never part with it now. I understand what you mean about 'mojo' and other pieces of cosmetic wear on the instrument don't bother me at all. However I find this constant 'roughness' under my left hand really disturbing. I took the neck off the bass last night and I think I may go ahead and sand it down, leaving the laquer on the headstock only. I've just bought a Musicman Sterling so I'm familiar with the tru-oil option. Rather than go for this product (that seems to contain a lot of chemical nasties and is also used as a 'gun' oil - bad karma), I thought I might use tung oil which is danish oil without the quick drying nasties. I think this is the finish used on Warwick basses ? I also happen to already have a tin of this. Any thoughts? - Emyr
  12. I have a '76 Precision with a rosewood neck. The back of the neck (not the rosewood) has become pitted and dirty along its lower edge due to my sweaty little hands. I'd like to do a simple repair job without rubbing the whole of the back of the neck down. These necks have quite a heavy gloosy varnish. Will I get away with just rubbing down the section that's worn ? and if so what would be the best product to refinish it with ? Any tips much appreciated. It's a great instrument and a very old friend - I'm nervous that I might turn a drama into a crisis ! Thanks - Emyr [attachment=27495:IMG_1898.jpg]
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