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This topic is most useful . I’ll be looking for something myself in the not too distant ! A friend of mine has a drummers stool , which might be something to consider also. I think it’s made by protection racket 🤔

I’ve resisted the temptation!

Ordered a 1L tin from Penn Elcom. Will look at what rollers are best for pattern so any suggestions welcomed. Finally had a day of clear weather so managed to get outside to cut things and create quite a lot of sawdust. The speaker cab is almost there, port hole made and the printed version fits in nicely. The speaker hole looks great (even if I do say so myself), the router and the home made adapter works a treat. The marks from the circular saw will disappear as I'll gently sand and it's coming to be covered with black Armacab. I also cut the hole for the spray cabinet extractor fan and the power switch. Not wired up yet but that's not a big deal. Got 5m of extractor hose that will go on the extractor fan so it takes a load of the fumes and spray away. Todays job is doing the rear connector panel and probably soldering wires in. It's also raining. A few questions: I'm unsure how to mount the rear connector panel. Should I just put foam tape on the inside and squash it down to seal it and that's the gasket to reduce leaks. If so I'd probably need to recess the panel so it doesn't stick out too much. I feel I could do that now I've had some practise with the router. I could just put sealant on the underside and squash that. Not sure of the best way. Should I use screws or bolts for the rear panel? I can put an M3 bolt through and a lock nut on the other side. Not sure which is best. I have both so it's not an issue Should the loudspeaker be bolted in or screwed in? It appears to have quite a dense foam on the front and rear of the Fane speaker. So assuming that I don't need any more foam around that? Should I put silicone sealant all around the inside of the speaker where the batterns are? I think there is a lot of glue but cant guarantee its 100% I'm intending to solder the internal wires to the speaker. I've seen comments on using spades but can't see any issues with solder myself. The reason I'm asking these is that I can't do bolts on both systems as I lose access as the front and rear panels go on. So am assuming that screws are probably the way to go, possibly with some sealant to help lock them in? Thanks Rob

I've got some on a Sire GB5 electroacoustic which is more like a hybrid bass with just a Piezo pickup and they sound sublime. I've tried the golds too but definitely favour the copper.

I got it for £169 used as new off Ebay and they are generally £299 new in Stores in the UK.

That would be my vote! Love my SB700!

We had a crowd, however it was awkward.Nice room, nice stage and sound. We bought our own lighting. Like I said this place is more for the Saturday night party bands. There were a few "screw ups" musically . Good paying gig and some nice tips. https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1BTJQAGVN2/ Daryl

Decided to join in with the pedal riser idea and build a little essentials board. With a bit of judicious wiggling I've managed to get it all flush on three sides, but the DC plugs overhang just slightly at the top. Could be worse. The feet have been harvested from my old Markbass F1 which sadly expired recently. It can be powered from both a standard adapter and also a USB powerbank thanks to an ENGL PowerTap Portable which is the little block under the back edge. As long as the polarity is correct it'll take anything from 5-18v input and send 9v output. For the full wireless whatsit I was considering getting a pair of cheap UHF bugs from the Black Friday sales to go between board and amp. They claim less than 3ms latency, which added to my Fender Telepath on the input claiming 4ms, should still be perfectly acceptable. The yellow sticker is just 'if lost please call' info, but I'm old-school about putting my mobile number all over the Internet so blanked it, in case you were wondering what/why.

Agreed Daryl

I bought one years ago when covid hit and I started working from home. It took me ages to find one where both armrests would fully swing away. This is the one I got and it’s great. https://www.hjh-office.co.uk/air-port-backrest-mesh-seat-leather-professional-office-chair.html Blimey, this was £270 in 2020!

The FBA is good, very detailed and well presented like most of the SBL material. Good workbooks and play-along tracks and the course is huge. Like a lot of the Accelerator courses it's like an expanded and more detailed version of some of Phil Mann's (and others') courses that are already in SBL. I like Phil Mann's approach to teaching and get a lot of what he's done. His theory courses are very engaging. There's nothing that I've seen in FBA Accelerator that's not available elsewhere, and we can say that about most courses, but it is well presented, has loads of material etc and that's what makes it what it is. Like all this, you need to put in what I call "boot camp time", you need to sit and pump out the exercises and not skip bits. Trust the process. I was watching one of Phil M's videos and he was talking about studying with Jeff Berlin and learning all the patterns all over the neck and it seems that's the concept the FBA is based on.

Call Me Back - The Strokes

I picked the Ikea ALEFJÄLL. High chairs don't really add anything for me, I just wanted good lower back support. The armrests are just long enough to support my elbows and short enough to not get in the way when playing bass.