JGSpector

Oh man, I thought someone might ask me this one day. Firstly, I will just state that I really love getting amps whether they be new or pre owned and trying them out. I have a genuine interest in how they fit with my personal requirements and preferences as a blind player, so that's why I appear to have so many amps. I currently only actually own 3 (some would say too many I know) which are a Bergantino Forte HP2, a Trace Elliot TE1200 and the EBS Reidmar 752. I genuinely like all 3 of them, they all sound great and have excellent build quality. To answer your question though , if I could only keep one of them it would absolutely be the Bergantino Forte HP2. It has absolutely everything a gigging bass player could need, variable rate compressor, high and low pass filters, built in drive with multiple firmware options for overdrive, fuzz (modern and vintage), FX loop, aux in, headphones out, studio quality DI, the ability to handle a 2 ohm load, it's got more power on tap than you can shake a stick at, it's compact, light weight, the build quality is first class and most importantly of all, it sounds absolutely fantastic. It's unbelievably versatile and if you want it, it even has a bluetooth footswitch that can be used with it. I can't imagine any gig situation that it couldn't handle to be honest. I don't know if you've read my review of the Berg, but if you do or have, you'll notice that right at the beginning I say that it's not technically 100% accessible to me due to how some of the push buttons work, but even considering that, the amp is so good and flexible that I wouldn't be without it. Interestingly, I'm actually considering thinning mine down to the Berg as my main amp and keeping The Reidmar as my backup amp and moving the Trace Elliot on. I genuinely love the Trace as well but it doesn't quite have the versatility of the Berg. I also do some jam sessions etc and sometimes do some work with blind teenagers where they can try playing instruments, so I will use the Reidmar for that and the jam session stuff as there's no way I'm taking my Berg to be potentially damaged. That's not to say that I think the Reidmar is rubbish, far from it, I think it's a great and versatile little amp, but given that it only cost me £200 and 2 pedals that I no longer wanted, I could handle it if it were to get damaged in some way. Sorry, have waffled a bit there but I hope that has answered your question

I can categorically state that the 752 is unbelievably loud. Running mine into a Barefaced 210 at four ohms means the amp is running at 450 W. In a band with a loud hard hitting drummer, two guitars, vocals and keyboards I have never had to Have the volume any higher than four or five on the dial the amp is incredibly versatile for sure, you can get pretty much any sound you like out of it. It is definitely not a one trick pony

That is true. However, the truth is, I never use the Bergen Tino with the 210, I only use it with my SC or ST. I was simply using it as an example for my answer. I use an EBS Reidmar 752 with my 210, that amp is 450 W into a 4 ohm load which is absolutely perfect and phenomenally loud for such a small overall package

That's a good point actually. I also prefer my 12" Bf cabs (1 SuperCompact, 1 SuperTwin. Not run together, that would be insane. I use the ST for outdoor and big gigs and use the SC for rehearsals and small to medium gigs) with my 5 string basses. So why do I have a BF 210 I hear you ask. Basically, because I got it as part payment/trade for a 410 cab I was selling. I had thought I would sell the BF 210 but I actually really like it and use it in my music room and because I play at jam sessions etc, I often use it for that because the footprint is so small even compared to my SuperCompact.

I have. I owned 2 BF 110s a few years ago and they were great but I've recently in the last month got a BF 210. I would go with the 210 every time now that i've had experience with both options. My reasons are: - the 210 is still ridiculously small for what it can put out and it's a very easy 1 hand lift rather than two 1 handed lifts for 2 separate 110s. - Tonally there is no difference between a single 210 or two 110s when run together, but the thing that swings it for me is that on the 110 you are limited by them being 8 ohm cabs giving you a 4 ohm load when they are run together. Whereas the 210 has a 4/12 ohm switch, enabling you to cater for almost any power of amp within reason. Barefaced say that when in 12 ohm mode, an amp going into the 210 will run at approximately 1/3 of its full power rating at a 4 ohm load. For example, I have a Bergantino Forte HP2 which has a power rating of 1200 watts into 4 ohms. There is no way my BF 210 can take that kind of power in 4 ohm mode, however, if I switch it to 12 ohm mode, the Berg only runs at around 400 watts, which is well within the 210's power handling. That flexibility really makes the difference for me.

Overview. I recently purchased a pre owned EBS Reidmar 752, well, I say it was pre owned but in truth a local chap bought it as a gig rig backup but didn’t like it for some reason, so I got it dirt cheap for a bit of cash and 2 pedals that I was selling anyway. It’s basically in new condition with less than 10 hours studio use and no gig use. I had never played through an EBS amp before so I was keen to try it out. Disclaimer: I’m just a dude who plays bass in a few projects and bands for fun, I am by no means a pro musician or online reviewer. All views are my own and I have not received any payment or other incentives to produce this review. I am only reviewing gear that I actually own or that I have access to due to items being on loan from various friends. Build Quality. The Reidmar 752 is a nice neat little amp that is not much bigger than a 14” laptop. It’s approximately twice the height of a modern laptop, but as EBS themselves say, it will fit nicely in a standard laptop bag. I transport mine in a laptop backpack rather than a courier style bag, but you get my drift. The amp is very solidly constructed and has nice clear writing for the controls which, for those who can see, is very useful indeed. The aluminium casing is nice and sturdy and the hole thing is robust. Amp Dimensions & Power. Dimensions: Width, 36.3 cm (14.29”). Depth, 26.2 cm (10.31”). Height, 7.6 cm (2.99”). Weight: 3.8 Kg (8lbs 6oz). Power: 230 watts into 8 ohms, 450 watts into 4 ohms, 750 watts into 2 ohms. Knobs & Switches. The knobs on this amp are nice and solid and feel good under the fingertips. All have a recessed line to indicate where the control is set and it is tactile enough to feel with a fingertip or thumb nail. If on a dark stage or if you are blind like me this is very welcome. All of the EQ filter controls have a centre detent which I always like. The mid frequency selection control, input gain, compressor, drive and master volume knobs do not have a centre detent however which of course is pretty standard. The push buttons are of good quality and respond well under the fingertips. All are of the type that stay in when engaged and pop out when disengaged, which is excellent for blind players like me but also useful for people trying to figure out how their controls are set on a dark stage. The power switch is a rocker style, is good and solid with a positive clunk under the fingertip when engaged. Features, layout & ease of use. Front Panel (from left to right). 1/4” instrument input jack. Character push button: When engaged, the bass and treble frequencies are slightly boosted whilst the mid frequencies are slightly cut. Input gain dial: Turn this dial clockwise to increase the input gain. An LED illuminates to indicate when clipping occurs. Compression dial: Turn this dial to increase the amount of compression. An LED illuminates when compression is occurring. Filter active push button: When engaged, the EQ filters are active on the amplifier. When disengaged, the EQ filters are bypassed. Bass filter dial: Cuts or boosts bass frequencies. Mid filter dial: Cuts or boosts the mid frequency selected on the Mid frequency selection dial. Mid frequency selection dial: Selects the mid frequency to be affected by the Mid filter dial. Treble filter dial: Cuts or boosts treble frequencies. Bright filter dial: This is an advanced low noise high pass filter that adds space and presence to the overall sound. Drive dial: Turning this dial clockwise increases the amount of drive produced in the tube emulation stage. This control can boost gain up to 34db. When at its maximum the drive is compressed, resulting in natural limitation. Drive can be engaged and disengaged by footswitch. Master volume dial: Turning this dial clockwise increases the output volume of the amplifier. It does affect the volume of the Line Out. It does not affect the volume of the DI Out. Rear Panel (from left to right). Power switch (top). Voltage selector switch (bottom). Fuse cover. Power socket: Insert an IEC cable with the correct fuse for your location into this socket to power the amplifier. Speak-on socket: Connect your speaker cabinets to the amplifier using a speak-on cable into this socket. The minimum load for the amplifier is 2 ohms. 1/4” effects send jack (top): Run an instrument cable from this jack to the input of an effects pedal or first effects pedal on your pedal board. 1/4” remotes jack (bottom): Connecting a footswitch to this jack enables remote operation of the Drive and Mute functions. 1/4” effects return jack (top): Run an instrument cable from the output of an effects pedal or last effects pedal on your pedal board into this jack. 1/4” filter remotes jack (bottom): Connecting a footswitch to this jack enables remote operation of the Character and Filter Engage functions. Note that the Character and Filter Engage buttons must be at the in position for footswitch operation to work. 1/4” headphones jack (top): Connection for standard headphones. Plugging headphones into this jack does not mute the signal to any connected speaker cabinets. 1/4” line out jack (bottom): Use this jack to connect the amplifier to additional power amplifiers or to other devices that require a line signal. The volume of the line out is affected by the master volume control. 3.5mm aux in jack (top): Connect an external device such as an mp3 player to this jack. Volume of the signal to be mixed with your bass sound is controlled by the external device’s volume controls. The signal sent to this jack is not present at the DI output. Post EQ push button (bottom, left): When engaged, the signal sent to the DI out contains all filter, compression and drive features that are engaged on the amplifier. When not engaged, the signal sent to the DI out is a clean unprocessed signal. Ground Lift push button (bottom, right): When engaged, the grounding pin is deactivated. This can help if grounding hum is present, as disengaging the grounding pin can reduce or eliminate the hum. When not engaged, the grounding pin remains active. DI balanced output socket: Studio quality balanced direct out XLR to connect to front of house or a recording device. Sound quality. EBS have some black magic going on in their amps which apparently maximises the power efficiency to squeeze out every last decibel of volume and tone. Whatever they are doing is very definitely working! The Reidmar 752 is rated at 450 watts into a 4 ohm speaker load. I ran mine into my Barefaced 210 cab (4 ohm 500 watts) and was easily able to compete with a loud rock drummer, 2 guitars, keyboards and vocals but still have some juice left if I needed it. It feels like there’s a lot more headroom available in this amp than it is rated for and it is stupidly loud for a 450 watt amp. Don’t forget, its maximum power rating is 750 watts into a 2 ohm load, I imagine this would be usable for pretty much any gig situation. I haven’t tried the amp into my Barefaced SuperTwin yet but I can’t imagine it will be anything less than glorious through that cab. There is a “Character” push button on the front of the amp which boosts bass and treble slightly whilst cutting mids a little. To be honest, I keep this on all of the time as I like the tone it produces as a starting point for tweaking the rest of my EQ and drive etc. You can actually disengage the EQ filter section so all you get is your bass’s natural tone. I really like this as I can switch between 2 different tones without having to mess around with my EQ, also great if you use the drive but don’t need it for a particular part of a song as you can simply disengage the filters section all together. With all the filter controls set to 12 o’clock, the drive all the way off and the compressor all the way off, the amp is crystal clear and punchy with great articulation. Once you start sculpting your tone with the EQ filters and compressor it really starts to get fun. The Reidmar 752 has a semi parametric mid EQ filter which consists of 2 controls. The mid EQ which cuts or boosts the selected mid frequency and a mid frequency selection control which sweeps you through a broad mid frequency range. This is fantastic for really dialling in that tone that is going to cut through the mix in a difficult venue or if you have a particularly dark sounding bass. The bass and treble EQ filters do exactly as you would expect, they cut or boost the bass and treble frequencies. The bright control is fantastic for adding some airiness to your tone and generally giving you some more top end sparkle, also great if you’ve got old or dull strings that need brightening up. The drive on this amp is fantastic. It’s not a rip your face off pedal style fuzz but is instead a drive designed to emulate classic tube amps at their various stages of break up when being pushed hard. You can get a lovely subtle harmonic effect with this control set low but the more you turn the control up, the more breakup warmth and character comes through until it sounds like you’re pushing a 300 watt pure tube amp to within spitting distance of meltdown. My default is to have this control set somewhere between 10 o’clock and 3 o’clock depending on the style of music I am playing. Conclusion. Even though I’ve never played through an EBS amp before this one, I have been aware of EBS’s reputation for well made products and extremely high quality sounding gear for several years now. What immediately struck me about the amp is how simple the front panel layout is. You can literally start at the left and work your way along and find what you’re after intuitively, even if you can’t see anything. It took me minutes to learn the front panel controls rather than hours, and that is something I really appreciate in an amp. Overall I have to say, I’m very impressed indeed, its build is good and solid, it’s easy to use, it sounds fantastic and it punches well above its weight when it comes to volume. There’s a vast array of tones available and I’m confident you could cater for pretty much any musical genre or playing style with the amp. The ability to engage or disengage the EQ filters is a really nice touch that to be honest, I wish more manufacturers would incorporate into their amplifiers. The compressor is very usable and not at all noisy which is nice. I love the drive on this amp, it sounds and feels warm and natural but has real teeth when cranked. There’s everything a player could possibly need on the rear panel of this amp. DI with pre/post EQ selection, ground lift, effects send and return, 2 yes 2 footswitch jacks, aux in, headphones out and a line out jack. The DI, line out, effects loop and headphones all sound crystal clear with no added hiss, just excellent stuff. I absolutely do not regret paying the silly money I did for this amp, I will use it for jam sessions and smaller gigs for sure but I’ve also found since buying it that I’ve used it constantly in my home studio. If you are a blind player, the EBS Reidmar 752 should definitely be on your short list of amps to check out. It has everything you could need for an amp of its size and power class and it’s very intuitive to use. To find out more about the Reidmar 752 and other EBS gear, visit the EBS website at: https://ebssweden.com/content2/amps/ #BlindMusician #BlindBassPlayer #Blindness #PlayingMusicBlind #EBSReidmar752 #EBSReidmar752GearReview #MusiciansWithDisabilities #ExperiencesOfTheBlind #BestBassAmpForTheBlind

to be honest, I don't really keep track of who owns who when it comes to gear manufacturers, so I'm not really sure I can add much to the conversation. What I can say though is that a few months before I got my TE1200 there was a bass player in another band rehearsing in the same studio space in one of the other rooms. He and I got talking and the short version is that he let me have a play through his TE1200. I liked it instantly from both a sound quality perspective and a layout perspective. I only found out after I bought my own TE1200 that Trace are now part of Peavey but if I had known beforehand I very much doubt it would have put me off getting one. Ultimately I played through the amp, loved it and then went and bought one. Admittedly I have owned a couple of Trace amps back in the day and had good experiences with them and was intrigued to find out what their new class D 1200W head was all about, so maybe that bit of nostalgia helped but the TE1200 sounding so good and being so solidly built was certainly what tipped the balance in me getting one of my own.

Overview. I recently purchased a Bergantino Forte HP2 along with a Forte gig bag. I have to say, I absolutely love it. The amp isn’t absolutely perfect from a blind user’s perspective but the imperfections can easily be worked around and to anybody who is not blind, I doubt they would even be considered to be imperfections. So, here are my thoughts. Disclaimer: I’m just a dude who plays bass in a few projects and bands for fun, I am by no means a pro musician or online reviewer. All views are my own and I have not received any payment or other incentives to produce this review. I am only reviewing gear that I actually own or that I have access to due to items being on loan from various friends. Build Quality. The amp: I think the form factor of this amp is very nice indeed. It’s immediately clear when taking it out of the sturdy and padded box that this amp is built with extremely high quality components. It has a smart aluminium body with unusual but very grippy rubber feet at each corner. It feels really sturdy and none of the knobs or switches feel loose or cheap. The gig bag: Again a very nicely made product, is well padded, has good quality zips, has a large outer compartment that is big enough to fit the amp power cable, speaker cables and the bluetooth footswitch and still have space for ear protection, spare batteries, screwdriver etc. The main compartment is perfectly sized for the Forte HP2 and because it is top loaded the amp is easily accessible without having to lay the bag on its side to get to it. The shoulder strap is a permanent part of the bag which I like as there is no chance it can become unclipped. I’m definitely glad I bought the gig bag, it somehow manages to do a superb job of protecting the amp whilst not being bulky, which I very much appreciate. Amp Dimensions & Power. Dimensions: Width, 13.25” (33.66cm), depth 8.375” (21.27cm), height 3.75” (9.525cm). Weight: 6.4 lbs (2.9 Kg). Power: 600 watts into 8ohms, 1200 watts into 4 ohms, 1200 watts into 2ohms. Knobs & Switches. The knobs on this amp are nice and solid and feel good under the fingertips. The master volume, input gain, compressor and drive knobs all have an angled slice cut out of them that has a recessed line in the centre so you can easily feel what position the knob is at if on a dark stage or if you are blind like me. All of the EQ controls have a centre detent which I always like to find on an amp. The input gain, compressor, drive, high and low pass filter and master volume knobs do not have a centre detent which makes sense of course. Something I absolutely love about this amp is that the master volume knob is massive. In fact Bergantino themselves refer to it as “one big knob”. As you can no doubt imagine, having a master volume knob that is 4 or 5 times the size of all the other knobs is perfect for blind players or people who are forever operating on dark stages. The push buttons are of good quality and respond well under the fingertips. However, they are the type that do not stay in or pop out when pressed. This did throw me for a minute to be honest, mainly due to my tactile requirements as a blind player. Having said that, it is immediately obvious whether the Mute, Punch and Bright buttons have been engaged. This is also true of the Drive Engage button, although if only using low levels of drive it might not be quite as obvious. What I do is turn the Drive knob all the way up before pressing the Drive Engage button. That way it is immediately clear that the drive circuit has kicked in. All I do then is dial back the Drive knob until I have the level where I want it. The DI pre/post function is controlled by pressing the Punch button for a few seconds. Similarly the 4ohm/2ohm setting is toggled by pressing the Mute button for a few seconds. You can also switch between two high frequency EQ settings by pressing the Bright button for a few seconds. In all cases an LED next to the button changes colour to indicate which setting has been selected. This of course poses a problem for blind players. Ultimately you could ask a band mate to confirm which colour the LED is displaying. I think realistically this would be the best and safest way to get around this as the last thing you want to do is set the 4ohm/2ohm setting wrong and end up damaging your equipment. This won’t actually be a problem for me at all as I have an 8ohm cab and a 4ohm cab that are never used together meaning that when I use the 8ohm cab the speaker load is 8ohm which has the amp running at 600 watts, whilst when using the 4ohm cab the amp will run at 1200 watts which is the default setting for the Forte HP2. The power switch is a rocker style, is good and solid with a positive clunk under the fingertip when engaged. Features, layout & ease of use. Front Panel, from left to right. 3.5mm aux input jack (top): For connecting external devices. 1/4” instrument input jack: (bottom). Compression knob (top): Turn clockwise to increase amount of compression. Input Gain knob (bottom): Adjust for instrument input level. Overload indicator LED (next to input gain knob): Flashes when input stage is being overloaded. Master volume knob: You can’t miss it, it’s massive! Protect indicator LED: Comes on when amp is overheating, if it is receiving dirty power, if air vents are blocked, if cables are damaged. The amp automatically mutes if this occurs. Clip indicator LED. Comes on if output signal is clipping. Drive knob (top): Turn clockwise to increase amount of drive. Engage Button (at 5 o’clock position next to the Drive knob): This button engages/disengages the Drive effect and is also switchable via the Bluetooth footswitch. Press and hold this button or the Drive switch on the footswitch for 2 seconds to toggle between primary and secondary Drive functions. The amp will always power up with the Primary Drive function selected, regardless of whether it’s engaged or not. Drive engage indicator LED (next to Drive knob): Lights up when drive circuit is engaged. Flashes once when primary drive is engaged, flashes twice when secondary drive is engaged. Variable low pass filter (bottom): This control adjusts the Low-Pass frequency of the amp from 1 khz when the knob is turned fully to the left and 10 khz when the nob is turned fully to the right. Variable high pass filter (bottom): This control adjusts the High-Pass frequency of the amp from 30 hz when the knob is turned fully to the left and 120 hz when the knob is turned fully to the right. Bass EQ knob (bottom): Adjusts the bass frequencies, plus or minus 10db @ 65 hz LoMid EQ knob (bottom): Adjusts the LoMid frequencies, plus or minus 10db @ 250 hz HiMid EQ knob (bottom): Adjusts the HiMid frequencies, plus or minus 10db @ 1khz Treble EQ knob (bottom): Adjusts the treble frequencies, plus or minus 10db @ 3.5 khz Punch Engage Indicator LED (top): This indicator illuminates orange when Punch is engaged Punch button (top): Engages the Punch filter of the amp and is switchable via the footswitch. It also toggles between Pre and Post EQ for the DI select when pressed and held for 3 seconds. DI Pre/Post EQ Indicator LED: Illuminates green when “pre” is selected and yellow when “post” is selected. Bright Engage indicator LED: Illuminates green when the Bright filter is engaged Bright button (top): Engages/disengages the Bright filter and is switchable via the footswitch. It also toggles the bright frequency between +6db @ 2khz and +8db @ 7khz when pressed and held for 3 seconds. Bright Frequency Indicator LED: Illuminates green when 2khz is selected and yellow when 7khz is selected. Mute Engage Indicator LED: Illuminates red when Mute is engaged. Mute button (top): When engaged the Main output and DI output are muted. The tuner output in the back of the amp remains unmuted for silent tuning with a connected external tuner. Pressing and holding the Mute button for 3 seconds will toggle the amp between 4/8-ohm operation and 2-ohm operation. 4/8-ohm or 2-ohm Indicator LED: Illuminates green when 4/8-ohm operation is selected and yellow when 2-ohm operation is selected. (The fan is automatically engaged when in 2-ohm mode). USB Port: Use this port to insert the Dongle for the bluetooth footswitch or to install new firmware from a flash drive. It can also be used to power/charge an iPod or similar device. Rear Panel, from left to right. Power Switch (top). AC socket (bottom). 1/4” Tuner jack (top). 1/4” Headphone jack (bottom). 1/4” Effects Send jack (top). 1/4” Effects Return jack (bottom). Ground Lift switch (bottom). Direct Out socket. 2x locking speaker connectors. Sound quality. This thing is absolutely amazing! Without any drive engaged at all and with the EQ flat the amp is crystal clear and is completely neutral as far as I can tell. The EQ is incredibly easy to use and I found that minimal adjustments made a big impact on my tone whilst keeping everything as clean as a very very clean thing. Once you start using the various tone shaping tools built into the amp, pretty much any bass tone you could possibly wish for is right there at your fingertips. The Punch and Bright buttons make a significant difference to the tone even with the EQ set flat. The variable high pass and low pass (VHP and VLP) controls give you the ability to filter out any pesky boomy frequencies from your bottom end or tame any unwanted frequencies from the top end. Moreover, they give you even more control over any of the available overdrive and fuzz firmware options you use. I really like the compressor on this amp too. It does a wonderful job of smoothing out your tone whilst somehow managing to not compromise it in a negative way regardless of where you set the compression control. Using the firmware options. The ability to install overdrive and fuzz firmware options onto the amp was, along with all of its other great features, a major point of interest for me. As a rule I do not like using digital equipment as it invariably features digital displays which as a blind player, I have no chance of being able to use. However, when I looked into this amp and learned that the firmware could be installed using a flash drive, my cautious interest became a full blown desire to get one and I have to say, I am not disappointed. As a fully blind but competent computer user I am more than capable of using flash drives for file transfers and storage anyway, so downloading the multiple firmware options from the Bergantino website is easy. There are 17 firmware options currently available for the Forte HP2 on the Bergantino website ranging from a B15 to Tube Screamers and multiple fuzz offerings. Once you’ve downloaded the files and made sure you’ve followed the detailed instructions on the web page for how to format your flash drive and name your firmware files, installing your chosen option is incredibly easy. If you are blind, here’s how to do it. Step 1: With the amp switched off, insert the flash drive with your chosen firmware file on it into the USB port on the front of the amp. Step 2: Switch the amp on and immediately press and hold the Bright button for a few seconds. Basically, I count to 5 before letting go and that always seems to work. I always leave a good 20 seconds before I remove the flash drive to allow time for the firmware to install. It’s as simple as that. Once you’ve removed the flash drive, you’re good to go with your awesome new firmware choice. Summary. Quite simply, this amp is the best amp I have ever owned or played through. It’s incredibly easy to use, has intuitive controls and a logical layout. It’s beautifully constructed, light and looks great. The range of tones it’s possible to get out of it are almost unbelievable and the amount of head room is ridiculous. Even though the amp is not technically 100% accessible to me as a blind player due to the style of push buttons and use of LED lights to indicate certain functions, it’s incredibly easy to work round those issues and to be perfectly honest, there isn’t an amp anywhere that I have found that doesn’t use LEDs to indicate things like clipping, mute on/off, drive on/off etc, it’s kind of a necessity really. The fact that it’s so easy to install different firmware options and use the amp in general outweighs the slight inaccessible bits by a loooooooong way. So would I recommend this amp to other blind players? Yes, but only if, - You are a competent computer user, as installing the firmware will not be possible if you are not. - You don’t mind finding a work around for the bits that aren’t accessible or are happy to just ask a band mate to tell you what colour an LED has changed to when you press a button. Every time I play through this amp it sounds fantastic. Ultimately it makes me want to play more and I think any piece of equipment that inspires you to play more can only be a good thing. To find out more about the Forte HP2 and other Bergantino products, visit the Bergantino website at: https://bergantino.com/

Oh, thanks for the heads up about the clip LED not actually existing. I'll edit the post to correct that bit. I play Spector basses which are all pretty high output and I just run the input gain on the amp at around the 12-1 o'clock position and haven't suffered any problems. 12