All Activity

I want to keep it as tidy as possible so I don't want to plug the LEDs into the USB — Just to make things a little harder for myself.

An alternate driver is the 18 Sound 10NW 650 16 ohm. In the same enclosure it has better than 6dB more maximum SPL through the critical 60-80 Hz range than the Celestion, while the 16 ohm coil gives an 8 ohm cab with two parallel wired. That 6dB translates to one 10NW 650 equaling two BN10-200x. The Pulse xl10-20 is good in the lows, but the mids are a bit spotty due to the lower Fs. I'd use it in a sub.

Freak Pooer (sorry)

He’s the best teacher out there myke, and a great player

I've got a Stingray Special and for me it's the best Stingray ever. It's light, comfortable to play and sounds incredibly punchy. It's definitely different to the vintage Stingray basses of my youth, but for my taste all the differences are improvements. The overall tone is a bit richer and less harsh in the treble whilst still being 100 percent Stingray, the ergonomics are much better and the reduced weight is essential for my aging back and shoulder.

I spent a lot of time researching this - I'm the bellend who decided he *had* to have retina-searing, colour-changing LED strips under all his pedalboards. The ones I use are 12V RGB, so easy to power from a decent Pedalboard PSU (reverse polarity for extra fun!) but they need a lot of mA compared to pedals - approx 1.2A per metre. https://learn.adafruit.com/rgb-led-strips/current-draw If you only want one colour, the draw is about a third of that and the PSU will probably handle it but you'll need to do the maths! You can run them at 9V, they just won't be cornea-scorchingly bright, which would be a shame.

That is a beautiful Rick. I've seen a couple of one-off Custom Shop basses that Rickenbacker have offered for sale in that dark Fireglo finish. Whatever it's called, I really like it.

I went for the TS312s on foh and 310s for monitoring. On larger gigs we add a 312s sub.

Thanks so much for posting this - I think I'm going to enjoy Don's videos.

To me, what is an expensive bass depends not just on the price but on what I'm getting for the money. £3000 is a lot of money if it's a boutique P Bass which ultimately offers only notional advantages over a decent regular P Bass at a fraction of that price. If I'm buying an Alembic then three grand is a bargain. At what price point a bass becomes expensive is open to debate, but what isn't open to debate is that nice basses have become more expensive. Allowing for inflation, high-end basses are significantly more expensive than they were in the past and that trend shows no signs of abating. For the equivalent price of a Wal with a fitted hardcase or Warwick Thumb Bass in 1989 in 2025 you can get a Spector Euro NS2 . For the price of a Status Series 2 in the late '80's you can now get a Stingray Special.

Had a couple of similar gigs myself recently, so also got an adapter for LAN. Fortunately in on iOS and it works without issues

Thank you Gary for a trouble free and smooth transaction! Item arrived so well packed and in original box too! Great comms and super quick to respond! Cheers!

whoops...double post.

Happy days. It is a thing, this data gathering. What on earth do the colloquial 'they' do with it all? Where do they store it all? It used to be about putting the words anthrax or letterbomb into emails that probably proved emails were being monitored.

Think it's absolutely brilliant that you are doing this, and all power to you! Quick question re your punters, just wondering what the guy to the right of your second picture is waving....if you look closely.... 🥴

Welcome BTF.

I'm probably going to try to put a small 3d printed block under each corner with quite a strong magnet hidden away. Thats the lime green bit below. The magnet is 0.5mm under the surface of the plastic and so can't be seen. It will have a plug in the back of it and it *may* have some self adhesive foam under that to avoid rattling, I didn't think of the foam so thanks for that. I will also add some foam on the top of the mount between the plastic block and the grille as you suggested. Good ideas those. The block will be welded to the corner piece (thats the purple bit). Its welded, not glued as the "glue" melts the plastic together and forms a stronger bond than the plastic itself. Might be superglue, might be Floplast. if this doesn;t work, then the recesses battern is plan B Thanks Rob