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DIY Effects


JackLondon

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On 21/09/2022 at 19:44, JPJ said:

So my new kit arrived today and I am now armed with smaller soldering iron tips, solder sucker, desoldering wick, and a better magnifier. I’m not going to start on this until the weekend but I’ll keep you posted. Fingers crossed I don’t foobar this one up too. 

So kit no2 assembled and tested and……..well it works, but it is quiet, like really quiet. I’ve obviously cooked something or made some other error but I am going to take another look tonight to see if I can spot anything obviously wrong. 

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1 hour ago, JPJ said:

So kit no2 assembled and tested and……..well it works, but it is quiet, like really quiet. I’ve obviously cooked something or made some other error but I am going to take another look tonight to see if I can spot anything obviously wrong. 

that is a semi good problem to have... 
good cos you know it works
bad cos it could be a random thread of wire bridging something or a cold solder joint or anything! 

time to get the volt meter out! 

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It works!!  use the suggested LDR and it works. 
 

As a mod I added a switch that bypasses the 2k7 resistor … mainly as I saw that that’s what the comp/limit switch on a real LA-2A does - it changes the sound but I need to experiment a bit to find out what what it’s really doing…

Comparing it to the LA2A sim in my HX stomp it’s the same ballpark 

I’m possibly going to need to do some modding as all the comp setting is at one end of the comp pot and it would be nice if it could be a bit more extream at the end of the pot if that makes sense…

 

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Changing the taper of your potentiometer will do that -

 

Log pots (denoted A) will bunch all of the change at the clockwise end of the turn.

 

Linear pots (B) have a linear change and finally

 

Anti-Log (C) have most of the value change bunched up at the counter-clockwise end. 
 

just replace the current potentiometer with one of the same value but different taper to tailor it more to your liking.

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My learnings also RE: PCBs - 

  • kiCad I found simple
  • much much easier than vero or playing with chemicals and etching yourself
  • planning the enclosure and board at the same time is easier - my board fits in the enclosure- but only just! 
  • mistakes need to be caught - I made three on my board. One was fiddly extra wire 3mm long and the other two kinda cancelled each other out.
  • the 0.3mm holes that the pcb manufacturer uses are a bit small for diy pedal building - they work fine but removing a component the capillary action keeping the solder in the hole was stronger than my solder sucker
  • anyone want the board with a couple of  a mistakes on it? :D will come with the correct LDR! 

 

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On 26/09/2022 at 22:06, LukeFRC said:

It works!!  use the suggested LDR and it works. 
 

As a mod I added a switch that bypasses the 2k7 resistor … mainly as I saw that that’s what the comp/limit switch on a real LA-2A does - it changes the sound but I need to experiment a bit to find out what what it’s really doing…

Comparing it to the LA2A sim in my HX stomp it’s the same ballpark 

I’m possibly going to need to do some modding as all the comp setting is at one end of the comp pot and it would be nice if it could be a bit more extream at the end of the pot if that makes sense…

 

so... 

my findings messing about and changing a few values... 

It works and sounds really nice kinda... but  only turned up all the way... and even then there's a bit of something not quite right...
if I correct needing to turn it up all the way issue I seem to get the mild overdriving sound again. It's not the Opamp in the signal chain which it was suggested it was - I think it might be the bloody LRD not being quite to spec. 

Learnings -

  • If I'm doing something a bit less "structured kit" I probably should breadboard it to layout this stuff before building - esp with something as variable as photocells.
  • this PCB wasn't designed for lots of mods! :D 
  • The beauty of a kit is someone has done the testing and development for you
  • it sounded really nice - I was on the right lines of what I wanted...


But I don't know if I'm going to get it sounding nice enough to make it worth sticking in an enclosure - I might chalk this one off as a fun experiment and a lost cause

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8 hours ago, disssa said:

Trace Elliot SMC GP7 Preamp:

te1.thumb.jpg.8f6ae5e4fa3d389ab4ec02e24fca021e.jpg

 

te2.thumb.jpg.380090391754d2fd96e54803635e1efe.jpg


I really like your work Disssa, it always looks so well laid out and very well put together, but on the flip side (and not trying to be a party pooper) should you really be using Trace Elliot, Orange etc logos on your pedals? I'm pretty sure they're trademarked.

Edited by Bassybert
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5 minutes ago, Bassybert said:


I really like your work Disssa, it always looks so well laid out and very well put together, but on the flip side (and not trying to be a party pooper) should you really be using Trace Elliott, Orange etc logos on your pedals? I'm pretty sure they're trademarked.

Ill echo the comment about your work 👌👌.

More so you should make ones to sell..... Id buy a few f sure 😁

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1 hour ago, Bassybert said:

...but on the flip side ...should you really be using Trace Elliot, Orange etc logos on your pedals?

While there are only one or maybe few units per model, @disssa can copy every detail as well and detailed as he wants. If he decided to make longer series and sell them, the story would be another. A single homemade unit is not a trademark issue in any way. I love to see disssa's detailed creations, and waiting for the next one.

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15 hours ago, Bassybert said:


I really like your work Disssa, it always looks so well laid out and very well put together, but on the flip side (and not trying to be a party pooper) should you really be using Trace Elliot, Orange etc logos on your pedals? I'm pretty sure they're trademarked.

I've asked myself about. My answer is roughly as ITU wrote it. Mostly I build only for myself. I do not use official logos on pedals that I sell.

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I'd like to Ask The Audience something. 

I'm in the process of putting together a loop pedal with a blend control... having experimented in the past it appears that certain pedals have a phase inverting tendency, so I want to be able to work round this if possible with a switchable phase inverter. However, I'm a little uncertain as to where the inverter should go. I'm thinking it would be example A below, but I want to make sure.

 

Untitled2.jpg

Edited by Rich
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Yeah it would need to be on the loop return. I built a phase inverter in a 1590a box that is absolutely invaluable. I keep meaning to try and squeeze one in the 1590lb so it can live happily under the board. Why the ls-2 doesn't have one on board I'll never know.

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On 03/10/2022 at 13:18, Rich said:

I'd like to Ask The Audience something. 

I'm in the process of putting together a loop pedal with a blend control... having experimented in the past it appears that certain pedals have a phase inverting tendency, so I want to be able to work round this if possible with a switchable phase inverter. However, I'm a little uncertain as to where the inverter should go. I'm thinking it would be example A below, but I want to make sure.

 

Untitled2.jpg

 

OK, the plot thickens a bit... I've just bought Pinball's old bypass loop pedal to use as a basis for this... I opened the back and it looks a bit like this. My question is... what are those capacitors for? Are they click stoppers or something? It's just out of interest, the whole lot is coming out anyway.

 

image.png.bb78ee1c74c9a2e5a9dd24ef9cfb62d9.png 

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43 minutes ago, Rich said:

 

OK, the plot thickens a bit... I've just bought Pinball's old bypass loop pedal to use as a basis for this... I opened the back and it looks a bit like this. My question is... what are those capacitors for? Are they click stoppers or something? It's just out of interest, the whole lot is coming out anyway.

 

image.png.bb78ee1c74c9a2e5a9dd24ef9cfb62d9.png 

 

logically they are ac coupling capacitors to block any dc components in the signal.

You'd expect the external kit plugged into Send and Return to have them on their own inputs / outputs so I don't really see the case for them here.

They are also quite a small value so use is limited to high impedance inputs. Okay with most pedals / amps but using with typical line or mic inputs will give significant low frequency loss.

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Bench tested yesterday, on to listening tests today:

 

WTHPF_WK.jpg.17a56246c3c25644652a659513221301.jpg

 

 

I'm hoping to have one of the well known pedal PCB suppliers port this to a simpler one board format with through hole parts for DIYers and sell it on his website. As usual, no commercial stake in this for myself, although this build was done on a commission and with luck I may even make something close to minimum wage on the assembly part! :biggrin:

 

 

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Has anyone found a good DIY kit for a cool Ring Mod pedal? Preferably a PCB, I’m not really set up for vero at the moment. 
Also maybe looking for a Phat Phuk B DIY PCB, but think that’s a little less likely, seen a couple of questionable vero layouts. 
I have googled, but incase anyone knows any other ideas lurking around.
 

Thanks

Si

Edited by Sibob
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1 hour ago, Sibob said:

Has anyone found a good DIY kit for a cool Ring Mod pedal? Preferably a PCB, I’m not really set up for vero at the moment. 
Also maybe looking for a Phat Phuk B DIY PCB, but think that’s a little less likely, seen a couple of questionable vero layouts. 
I have googled, but incase anyone knows any other ideas lurking around.
 

Thanks

Si

there's a few kits on Musikding
https://www.musikding.de/Death-by-Flaming-Ring-kit 
What I've found is that if you find a PCB on there and go to whoever's project it is (ProjectPCB, etc you can find out what it's based on...) 

 

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