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rmorris

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  1. Agreed. Prefer cocktail sticks also for their smaller diameter. I'm fairly sure I have some at home just not 100% certain if and where !
  2. Yeah. That's what I do in general. Cocktail stick or matchstick and a bit of wood glue. If serious strength needed leaving it to set for days not hours regardless of what it says on the bottle.
  3. Quick (?) question. If fitting a drop in replacement bridge or ,for that refitting original bridge that has been removed for some reason - do you do any filling on the existing holes to give the screw something to bite into ? For general DIY I would do this but it doesn't seem to be a thing with bridge replacement ?
  4. Does it work okay ? I'm imagining that the others may be in a similar state ?...but you can't see them...
  5. rmorris

    NPD BDI 21

    Hi. We have very different ways of setting up these pedals - I've never found much use for the BLEND pedal - but I agree that these are indeed "good stuff". From a circuit point of view the biggest difference seems to be use of different opamps. I forget the detail atm. I have a BDDI and BD121. Build wise the BD121 is a bit odd with it's funny sort of on / off switch. But the plastic body seems sturdy (ABS ?). I haven't investigated whether it's effectively screened against electromagnetic noise. Sonically I think I find it easier to find what I'd term as 'unusable sounds' with the Sansamp BDDI rather than the BDI 121. This does mean I find the BDI a bit more 'user friendly'. Not everyone agrees obviously - the Sansamp YouTube posts use some tones that I would avoid. But I've never been a fan of the "Pencil through Speaker Cone" tone. Apart from that the BDI 121 doesn't offer Phantom Power operation so not so universally useful. And , of course, you can use both of these in Bypass - still providing a low impedance output to the mixer without any 'colour' or eq.
  6. Good Question. I've emailed to ask. Definitely not a budget option but the OP seemed to be willing took at £100s at least. The requirements seems fairly basic and I'd say the Orchid stuff sounds fine. As it happens I have the Studiospares box and I wouldn't see a problem with it. I guess it comes down to how bothered about noise levels and absolute fidelity or 'Colour' and whether the EQ characteristics suits what you want. Ultimately I'd advocate DIY building your own - but I am an electronics design engineer with a background in pro audio though now working in a different field.
  7. Is the noise from the fan itself or from its mounting ? back Panel etc ? If it's from the panel resonating then it might be possible to use compliant mountings / rubber 'worms' etc rather than screws etc. Basically decoupling the fan from it's support. As used to produce 'Quiet PCs' and similar.
  8. Not really a problem to get Neutrik product though . CPC (and doubtless less expensive than Maplin) : https://cpc.farnell.com/neutrik/nys229/1-4-jack-panel-socket-mono/dp/AV09109
  9. I suggest to put the kit bass together first then see what needs doing. If it's not much then it might be better value to get a professional - or someone listed here - to take a look. Otherwise you could end up paying a three figure sum that would more than cover a pro fret level / setup...
  10. wrt Soldering - Weller and Pace are 'big names' in industrial use although several others too including eg RS own brand stuff. example: https://cpc.farnell.com/weller/ws-81-uk/soldering-station-95w-230v-uk/dp/SD02383
  11. tbh conductive adhesive is best avoided unless no other option. The stuff you buy - I haven't seen it for a while - for reparing rear screen heaters on cars etc is a bit of a nightmare in terms of success. Basically it 'goes off' and becomes not very conductive. I used to work at Penny & Giles (pro audio faders etc) and it was used on the faders as you can't solder to conductive plastic ink. But it was made in house before the production shift and used within a few hours. If you really don't want to solder but do want to DIY then imo you'd be better off with copper tape with a conductive adhesive backing. Best to solder though.
  12. Agreed. But I'd say no real need to loosen strings when loosening as the string tension is going in your direction. Unlike when tightening ??? Views of luthiers here most welcome.
  13. It seems to me that the real question is - what materials are safe in contact with Nitro finishes. If you know that and obtain the stuff you could use any hanger you like but replace incompatible materials...? Of course if the suggestions ( String Swing / Hercules) are fine otherwise - design / price / quality then why not go wit them...
  14. Mmmm...Have you considered a Slatwall solution ? It's along the same lines as the picture but widely available via shopfitting supplies. Although it can be hard to get it in wide strips - normally 2.4m x 1.2 or 8' x 4' sheets and shipping expensive if not local pickup. I got some a few years ago locally but that outlet no longer in existence. As it happens I could use something like you show now but will likely improvise as I have spare instrument holders. If it's not clear i have basses angled on long reach arms and that gives room for a couple behind on short arms plus other accessories plus a shelf (in my case for film SLRs). Basically half a sheet there width cut to suit and mounted on wooden batons and similar in other alcove.
  15. Yeah - cheers AndyTravis - not thinking about that sort of investment - pretty much a 'backroom warrior' these days but interested in what pickups I can get in a compatible size. E string in particular seems to lack 'authority' - whilst I find on other basses it's the opposite if anything and a slightly lighter touch suffices (obvs there's compressor options as well).
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