rmorris

It seems you want to put 3 x Mics into one input. So that's not really a 'Splitter' application. That would be more taking a signal from one mic and splitting it to feed more than one input eg a recorder and a mixer. The ART Promix gives you what you need - I'd say the individual level controls are a necessity. It's not a cheap option for you though. If I were spending in that range I'd probably look at spending a bit more on a 'real' mixer - Soundcraft Notepad series etc - that would give you more connectivity options plus individual mic EQ. But maybe you require a physically smaller solution ? You can sometimes pick up discontinued Notepads etc on ebay for £30 or so. But make sure they have the PSU if you're not equipped to get one together yourself. They are +/- 17Vac - technically simple but not easy to get and everyone hates the connector !

What are the chances 😊 So there are actually four gangs there - 2x20K and 2x100K. I guess that you can just use one of each as long as it fits mechanically.

Yes - as it says : "different standards uses the same letters which can be confusing" so you need to consult the datasheet or manufacturer / distributor.

Interesting - although it comes to 48 Euro for a pot inc shipping (I'm assuming OP is in UK). I see they offer three tapers - although need to check what they are as letters to denote can be inconsistent. I guess for tone it's linear but you never know. There's no 20K option but there is 25K - maybe that's close enough for the OP ? Also - it doesn't mention the track composition - so I guess Carbon. It might be worth contactin OMEG in the UK to see if any response ?

+1. I doubt whether 20K / 100K is a readily available combination. I reckon the only realistic way to get what you want on a one off (or even small / moderate basis) without spending "mortgage money" is to build it from existing potentiometer component parts.

Unless you're keeping it as an historic artifact then I say rewire it.

Well there's a lot to remember / forget 😊 Anyway, we can probably agree that it's not a great circuit idea when you lose volume with tone. Personally I don't really use passive tone control much at all.

Me too + the rest. Still am. Cheers.

With those values of capacitance they will almost certainly (never say never - I once disputed the existence of tantalum resistors only to be proved wrong :-) not be electrolytics (or tantalum). As it happens Aluminium Electrolytics are usually marked on the negative leg (making the other +ve by implication while Tantalum Caps are maked at the positive leg / terminal. There are also Non-Polarised Electrolytics usually marked 'NP'). Yes - I deal with capacitors a lot :-) It wouldn't be strictly a good idea to use polarised capacitors in a passive tone / vol circuit in any case simply because you don't know what any dc bias will be - it's basically down to the following stage / amp input etc. However, in reality they are fine with a few volts 'the wrong way' as might occur in a typical audio circuit. As for the 'form of DC' - no :-) Although if I can work out a way to do that I might be in the money !

You're right that the circuits aren't separate. But the coupling capacitors don't do away with interaction apart for blocking dc - and that isn't an issue here. Although they will affect the degree of interaction depending on frequency and pot' settings.

I don't think that's true anymore wrt 1% cf 5% resistors. 1% has become the norm for standard small resistors - thru hole or SMT. (I design with these things and while I'm sure Behringer get better prices than myself that sort of means that the cost of the resistors becomes tiny.) Cost / Reliability issues are much more associated with mechanical elements - pots / sockets / switches / connectors etc as that's where more of the money goes. The footswitch on the BDI is a funny sort of thing. I have two of these - one I intend to mod - and no issues although light use only. I don't know if the casing is shielded internally ?

There is a 12V (and a 9V) voltage regulator inside so yes you do need around 15V for proper operation.

Since you're slackening off then you can't over-tighten. I don't see the big problem with using a powered driver that others do - but I'd go for my small 'pistol type' rather than the larger drill / driver type option. And I'd still loosen the first turn or two by hand - the screw may have binded a little and need a short strong action to 'snap' it off and allow it to be screwed out easily. Similarly when refitting I'd make the final couple of turns manually in order to 'feel' it. Do, of course, protect the area around the screws / plate. Screwdrivers can slip whether powered or manual.

Previously I've added (steel) rack ears to equipment - not specifically designed for the particular unit but with the apertures for the rack screws in place and maybe a few of predrilled holes in the sides for attaching the unit - but you might have to improvise there depending on the material / construction of the amp.

Good question. Could open up a 'can of worms'. Well I reckon it would on Talkbass anyway 😏