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2 hours ago, scrumpymike said:

 

It's so subtle that every time you look at it you see something new - and it's all good.

Used at rehearsal today...boys are happy..will gig it sunday afternoon in a local victorian bandstand...!!

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21 hours ago, MoonBassAlpha said:

Any recommendations for 24 fret shorties other than swb and Danelectro longhorn? They (shorties) mostly seem to be 19 or 20 fret with dubious top end access . I  have a Mustang and nearly ran out of frets the other day!

 

What's wrong with the Danelectro Longhorn?

 

It's an awesome bass that sounds great and looks amazing too, and you won't get any other bass with easier upper frets access.

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On 10/08/2021 at 22:17, MoonBassAlpha said:

Any recommendations for 24 fret shorties other than swb and Danelectro longhorn? They (shorties) mostly seem to be 19 or 20 fret with dubious top end access . I  have a Mustang and nearly ran out of frets the other day!


Balance on a strap isn’t great but playability and tones aren’t bad

 

438EF183-DD3E-4CF4-A20D-6E32CEA8C3D3.jpeg

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8 hours ago, barrycreed said:

Decisions decisions! About to get some upgrades done to an Epi EB0 and a Squier Bronco. Keep flats on the Epi or put them on the Bronco... 

Epi sounds good with the flats but curious as to how roundwounds would sound too...!


Worth a try in my opinion - I had an Epi EB0 with a DiMarzio DP120 and it was surprisingly bright and lively with light rounds (40-95 I think). To be honest, I find the EB0s to be a very useable bass in a lot of situations, though I think the DP120 made a positive difference

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41 minutes ago, JohnDaBass said:

Oh my word that is beautiful, just hope there's no neck dive. 

 

Thank you - it's just fantastic to play and I love the look of it.  Fortunately, it's very light for an Alembic - I've been looking for ways to reduce the weight further and had a couple of celluloid tort plates made to replace the brass rear covers (a reduction of around 180g).  I've also removed the four batteries for the lights (another good few grammes).  However, neck-dive is a perennial problem on these given the placement of the strap pins.  In honesty, I tend to play this seated rather than standing.  The bass also feels like an extra long-scale on a strap too (sort of defeating the point of short-scale in some ways).  I've included an image of the plates - I was very pleased with the fit.  I discussed with the maker (Tiny Tone) and we agreed on a slight bevel as the plates sit a little proud - it's 4 ply tort and has produced a lovely little white edge. 

914A8E04-67B7-4047-8D1D-96C5C8AA70BF.jpeg

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50 minutes ago, three said:

 

The bass also feels like an extra long-scale on a strap too (sort of defeating the point of short-scale in some ways).

 

In addition to the dreaded neck-dive, you get this extended reach issue with any s-s bass that has the top strap button closer to the body than F12.  Having the bridge/string anchor a fair distance from the bottom strap button pushes the nut even further away - so your lovely bass qualifies on both counts 😊

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4 hours ago, three said:

 

Thank you - it's just fantastic to play and I love the look of it.  Fortunately, it's very light for an Alembic - I've been looking for ways to reduce the weight further and had a couple of celluloid tort plates made to replace the brass rear covers (a reduction of around 180g).  I've also removed the four batteries for the lights (another good few grammes).  However, neck-dive is a perennial problem on these given the placement of the strap pins.  In honesty, I tend to play this seated rather than standing.  The bass also feels like an extra long-scale on a strap too (sort of defeating the point of short-scale in some ways).  I've included an image of the plates - I was very pleased with the fit.  I discussed with the maker (Tiny Tone) and we agreed on a slight bevel as the plates sit a little proud - it's 4 ply tort and has produced a lovely little white edge. 

914A8E04-67B7-4047-8D1D-96C5C8AA70BF.jpeg

 

Wouldn't you actually want the body to be as havey as possible to at least counter some of the neck dive?

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16 minutes ago, Baloney Balderdash said:

 

Wouldn't you actually want the body to be as havey as possible to at least counter some of the neck dive?

Correct!  If the design of your bass is prone to neck-dive, then lightening the body makes that worse.

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19 hours ago, Baloney Balderdash said:

 

What's wrong with the Danelectro Longhorn?

 

It's an awesome bass that sounds great and looks amazing too, and you won't get any other bass with easier upper frets access.

Nothing wrong with the Dano, just scoping out alternatives. The look may even be appropriate for the slightly psychedelic stuff we play. I assume they're pretty light too?

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59 minutes ago, MoonBassAlpha said:

Nothing wrong with the Dano, just scoping out alternatives. The look may even be appropriate for the slightly psychedelic stuff we play. I assume they're pretty light too?

If you've never played a Dano, you'll find them to have some of the best necks to play, uber fun and super fast. Yes, they are light 6-7lbs range.

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8 hours ago, scrumpymike said:

 

In addition to the dreaded neck-dive, you get this extended reach issue with any s-s bass that has the top strap button closer to the body than F12.  Having the bridge/string anchor a fair distance from the bottom strap button pushes the nut even further away - so your lovely bass qualifies on both counts 😊

 

Spot-on, the pin behind around the 21st fret implies quite a reach to first position, and the bridge - at around a third of the way in to the body - exacerbates the stretch.  As you can imagine, the bass 'feels' fairly long, though it balances perfectly on the knee and feels like a short-scale.  I rarely rehearse gig with the Alembic but it records beautifully (and around half of my playing time is seated anyway).  I have the Spector Shortys and the Wilcock for gigging (balance is perfect).  Mike, I know you had a brilliant solution for the stretch issues (relating to a SWB?) - I'm working on something similar in graphite with a couple of design engineers.

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On 09/08/2021 at 15:55, dannybuoy said:

I have a Sterling by Music Man short scale Stingray inbound to try out… was also interested in the G&L Tribute Fallout. My first 30” scale bass but I love playing my 21” scale Kala so much I’m sure I’ll get on with it and there may be a 34” scale Sandberg Basic going up for sale in the fallout (pun intended).

 

Had it for a couple of days now, initial thoughts:

  • The neck and fingerboard feel dry as a bone. I wonder what my best options are for a smooth oiled finish without too much effort!
  • Decent amount of tone differences from the 3 way switch, all useable. Surprised how good the single coil sounds when played agressively. Favourite is definitely series mode though, which sounds closest to my Sandberg Basic (also series I believe).
  • The push/push volume knob has a preset cut/boost which is just the right amount for equalising the volume boost you get from serial mode, so you can easily use multiple modes on the gig.
  • This thing needs some flats. I’m used to TIs but the shortest  they make is 32” medium scale. Risk an expensive experiment, go with some cheap Status Hotwires, or splash out on some Chromes / LaBella / Pyramids?
  • What happened to D’Addario prices, they used to be cheap compared to other flats now they’re some of the most expensive going?!
  • Getting rid of the Sandberg Basic was a silly idea, it’s the best sounding bass I’ve ever played!
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Get some Status flats or halfs for it. Either you’ll love them and find some nice cost effective strings, or you’ll think “hmm, nearly there” and then know you can go for the Chromes/LaBellas etc :)

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Ordered some Status 40-100 flats; £22 posted and never seen a bad review. I thought they’d stopped making the half rounds, they have for long scale but they still have the shorties! I have some of them on a 34” fretless. Defretting this shorty Stingray has crossed my mind!

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19 hours ago, Baloney Balderdash said:

 

Wouldn't you actually want the body to be as havey as possible to at least counter some of the neck dive?

 

Basic physics would certainly suggest so, and as Mike indicates, a light(er) body can exacerbate dive.  That said, there are so many other variables: personal physiology plays an important part, so too strap length/width, and the 'stickiness' of one's clothes and the strap.  I've had several short-scale small-bodied Alembics, including two extremely heavy cocobolo versions (seriously, 11-12lbs) and I found little difference in the dive between the lighter and heavier models.  I tend to wear them fairly high on my chest and this seems to have the greatest impact on dive.  It also makes it easier (for me) to reach the lower frets in comfort.  In general, I prefer the convenience of lighter basses, hence the efforts with the Alembic - though there's a theoretical/actual increase in dive with a lighter body, it's not something that I find too noticeable given the other factors in play.

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I do notice a difference in balance with bodies. Taking my SR1605 for instance, with the ultralite tuners on it it doesn't neck dive but the weight is very neutral, before with the gotohs on it there was a tendancy to be a bit head heavy. All my other SRs are heavier (up to the 5005 which is a brick) and the heavier they get, the less head light they are. The only structural difference between the 1605 and the 5005 is the top wood is spalted poplar, rather than wenge. It is amazing how much difference it makes.

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36 minutes ago, Woodinblack said:

I do notice a difference in balance with bodies. Taking my SR1605 for instance, with the ultralite tuners on it it doesn't neck dive but the weight is very neutral, before with the gotohs on it there was a tendancy to be a bit head heavy. All my other SRs are heavier (up to the 5005 which is a brick) and the heavier they get, the less head light they are. The only structural difference between the 1605 and the 5005 is the top wood is spalted poplar, rather than wenge. It is amazing how much difference it makes.

I've found fitting Ultralites is a game changer as the weight at the headstock end exerts the biggest leverage effect on the pivot point, i.e. where the strap sits on your shoulder.  At around £100 for a set of 4, even if you fit them yourself it's not a cheap fix though.

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