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Solid pancake plug...?


nuno1959

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Hi guys

 

I play the bass w/ a triangular pick, 40mm per side & 1.5mm thick. I've been known to occasionally break E strings with it and.. every now & then i hit the angled jack i use on the bass end of my cable.

1st i used Neutrik angled jacks & being quite big that hurts AND it transmits quite a blow to the bass socket/preamp board  of my Status.

So next i moved to pancake plugs as they are quite a bit lower. Problem is most are not that solid being made w/ a jack pressed  at it's top bythe lip of the hole in their casing of semi monkey metal. The blows are a lot less but.. less force is also needed to get the jack tip wiggling around in it's casing with the inevitable shorting & BIG noises from my cab, nasty noises... KRAACKK... KRAACKK... i fear for my amp & those drivers !

My question finally is : can anyone tell me about a GREAT quality pancake jack ? Preferably one where the jack tip is actually machined as part of the plug's lower side or at least welded to it ? Regardless where i can buy it from, EU/non EU...

Many thanks

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First of all - 'calm down dear' - I'm sure you could play a lot more controlled!

Second - not exactly low profile or pancake, but very solid and well made, the best bass lead I ever had and always use; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vox-VBC-13BL-Class-Professional-Cable/dp/B000Y7RQQA

Better than many if not all above that price range IMHO.

John

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This has me intrigued.

I'd certainly be interested in knowing how your technique results in you hitting the 1/4" jack...I just took a look at a few Status basses online and the output jack sockets all seem to be behind the bridge saddles and there's a load of knobbage in equally difficult locations.

If you're hitting the output jack, then surely you're hitting the control knobs too?

What model of Status are you using?

 

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Whilst it may be inviting for some to provide "humour filled commentary", the OP clearly has a practical issue he would like to find a solution to.

Some very sensible comments made as wel thankfully.

Personally I think all pancake plugs are quite "weak" as they are mainly intended for patch cords not instrument cables, so I would advise in order of cost:

- change technique, costs time no money

- change pick, maybe a smaller pick or thinner pick? Cost very little money and would need minimal tweaks to technique

- change position of jack input to side or even rear of basss, will cost some money, but not huge amounts

- design and invent a jackguard ...... not advisable

To me changing your pick and adjusting your technique a little is probably easiest and costs almost nothing.

Edited by HazBeen
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6 minutes ago, HazBeen said:

Whilst it may be inviting for some to provide "humour filled commentary", the OP clearly has a practical issue he would like to find a solution to.

Well said. I was about to add that the OP asked for so specific hardware recommendations, Not a critique of his style, which I presume does what he want's it to.

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12 minutes ago, HazBeen said:

Whilst it may be inviting for some to provide "humour filled commentary", the OP clearly has a practical issue etc.

We seem to live in an age where we all need to embrace the way people do things and feel unable to say anything for fear of upsetting the person who made the original comment.  I'm with everyone here.  How the hell do you actually crack your hand/pick against the jack plug when you're playing a Status?

I present for the defence a random photo of a Status bass.  Aside from one or two of the more traditional basses they make, the jack output is behind the bridge saddles in pretty much every other one they make.  Unless the OP is holding the bass in the weirdest of positions, the natural strumming arc of the arm will not/should not take you anywhere near the jack or the control knobs.

 

dscn4217_zpsdec4edf7-jpg.2080530

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Side_mounting is the answer, and would cost very little, especially if done oneself. Anyone bashing a bass in that fashion can hardly be precious about drilling a hole in the side, I'd have thought. Once done (and it can easily be done neatly...), no more jack problems. The string-breaking will continue, though, until the OP gets fed up with that expense. Kevlar jacks or unobtanium solder connectors are not the way forward.

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220px-Tommycooper.jpg

Man goes to the doctor, says, Doctor Doctor, every time I poke myself in the eyeball I get this shooting pain and the Doctor says, well stop doing it then.

Glass, bottle, bottle, glass.

 

(PS: the lowest profile pancake jack I can think of is the vintage-type Fender speaker jack with the plastic moulded F cap).

Edited by skankdelvar
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Just a suggestion  ???     Switchcraft 226 angled jacks 

Although they aren't pancakes ,  they are still very low profile.  Built solidly.    Have used them for years with my  Status 2000  and never had any problems. 

The Switchcraft 228  is the pancake  and stands out by only 12mm ???????   but I've never used one

 

 

IMG_0201.JPG

Edited by P-ZARN
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On 25/08/2018 at 15:41, KiOgon said:

First of all - 'calm down dear' - I'm sure you could play a lot more controlled!

Second - not exactly low profile or pancake, but very solid and well made, the best bass lead I ever had and always use; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vox-VBC-13BL-Class-Professional-Cable/dp/B000Y7RQQA

Better than many if not all above that price range IMHO.

John

I like the look of that... But what makes it bass specific?

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34 minutes ago, fleabag said:

I use these already. No complaints so far. Just interested in how a cable can be bass specific, as Vox claim. Not criticising, I love buying things that I convince myself will make me sound better!

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3 hours ago, uk_lefty said:

I like the look of that... But what makes it bass specific?

'sss snake oil' innit !?

"Product Description

Vox Bass cables provide an extended, more accurate bass, as well as freedom from noise and interference that can compromise your musical experience. These products use superior grade 99.99% purity copper conductors that will give you better clarity and a more natural sounding bass range. The large solid core bass conductors result in fuller, deeper, more extended bass response, and this is combined with thinner gauge stranded conductors that give better mid and upper bass response. The exact design was established by doing hundreds of hours of listening tests through numerous types of equipment. The precision formulated, Polyethylene dielectric material results in stronger signals that yield better definition of lower frequencies, and more natural sounding bass."

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1 hour ago, fleabag said:

I used the Fender Gold cables previously, tried the Platinum also but they're far too stiff!  All the Fender leads have stayed in my cupboard since I got the Vox, very user friendly, I have 67 year old ears that couldn't tell you any real difference in truth, but I like the Vox the best 😎

image.jpeg

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23 minutes ago, KiOgon said:

            

I used the Fender Gold cables previously, tried the Platinum also but they're far too stiff!  All the Fender leads have stayed in my cupboard since I got the Vox, very user friendly, I have 67 year old ears that couldn't tell you any real difference in truth, but I like the Vox the best 😎

image.jpeg

Yup

I have the gold cloth covering and the balck and white as above.  Not tried the platinums, so might give them a shot.   I like stiff - matron

Edited by fleabag
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5 hours ago, uk_lefty said:

I use these already. No complaints so far. Just interested in how a cable can be bass specific, as Vox claim. Not criticising, I love buying things that I convince myself will make me sound better!

I'm wondering how the signal can only go one way through the lead necessitating the INST and AMP labels 🤔

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