What do you hate about certain basses you own or have owned ?

[far0n]

[b]Current basses:-[/b]

Musicman Sub 4 - Uneven string balance, can't get the action wafer thin like I'd want it. Ripped out the electronics, replaced with a John East Preamp and Nordstrand pickup. Think that says enough about the stock parts. G String problem fixed now. String spacing too wide for my taste.

Ibanez ATK - Too heavy, neck's too thick, bass/mid/treble installed the wrong way round compared to every other bass on the planet.

Vigier Passion - Monster tone... if you can find it. Most of the time you can't. String balance is poor, very very middley sound, so massive mid scoop and a huge dollop of bass is essential. Suits 12" cones I've found.

Cort Funkmachine - My 'dependable' bass, on board funk wah largely useless. Even TM Stevens didn't use it. Too many frets for my liking.. tends to inhibit slap stuff.

Ibanez CT - Nothing flash, doesn't actually do anything wrong... it just doesn't do anything incredibly well either. Strung BEAD at the moment and it's sounding pretty good.... Just a bit bland.

[b]Previously owned:-[/b]

Kubicki Key Factor - If the bridge is in the middle of the body then a 34" scale bass will feel like a 37". Unplayable I found for this reason, low F was virtually unreachable. Outstanding slap sound.. fingerstyle... meh. So so.

Lightwave Saber 5 string - Stupidly neck heavy, chambered body (which didn't help). Piezo pickup just added 10 tonnes of hiss and a very nasty top end... harsh... not nice at all.

Status 1000 (or maybe a 3000 I think) - Bizarre sound that carbon fibre lark, not for me at all. Can see how it's popular with the slap guys though. Very clanky and rattley.

Musicman Stingray - Sounds stunning at home, headphones on. Live.... where did that sound go ? String spacing too wide for my taste n all. Piss poor G string too. Can't get the action very low either. Exactly like my Sub4. I'd be well pissed with this instrument if I'd paid £1200 for it.

[Muzz]

Warwick Fortress - the neck's great, sounds great now I've ripped out the stock setup and put some Wizards in, balance and weight are great, but the colour...what's it meant to be? It's not green, it's not brown, it's not grey, it's...bloody awful. Seriously considering stripping it, if it wasn't for the fact that Warwick finishes are legendarily thick and stubborn.

Previous basses

78 Jazz. Looked the business, sounded...dull, weighed more than a ton. Ok, two ounces short of 12lb, but that's close enough.

Stingray - poor G, just couldn't get along with the sound, heavy, clunky neck.

Overwater - desperately wanted to love it, as an instrument it was gorgeous, just couldn't get on with the the super-hi-fi tone. Spoke to Overwater a couple of times, no suggestions there, so I sold it. With hindsight I should have just pulled the pups and EQ and put something Nordy in there.

There, I feel better for that.

[Jean-Luc Pickguard]

Fender CIJ Mustang - looks OK in vintage white, but would be nicer in Daphne Blue. Needs vintage-style tuners with 'lollypop' buttons.

1981 Cherry Sunburst Precision - The Heavy Ash body weighs more than Eric Pickles

1971 musicmaster bass - topload bridge means that Thomastic TI JF324 flatwounds are too long to work on this bass & the last time I tried short scale LaBellas, the G was too short, so I have to use crappy rotosounds.

Ashbory - looks silly

[Oopsdabassist]

My Yamaha makes a horrible clicking noise when I dig in on the E string, I tried evrything I can think of, buts its still there and can be heard in the mix too

I presume I'm clagging the string so hard its either bouncing off another fret or the pup, but when I get into the choon the last thing I want to do is ease up Edited December 8, 2011 by Oopsdabassist

[chris_b]

[size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial]There is nothing to hate about my basses. At this level it's all about preferences. [/font][/color][/size][color=#222222][font=Arial][size=1][/size][/font][/color]
[size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial] [/font][/color][/size][color=#222222][font=Arial][size=1][/size][/font][/color]
[size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial]Currently I prefer the Lull over the Lakland, which I prefer over the Wal. The Lakland is great but it isn't sunburst and the Wal sounds the best in the studio. [/font][/color][/size][color=#222222][font=Arial][size=1][/size][/font][/color]

[Nibody]

Epi T-Bird - Neck drop, moved buttons and everything short of straping a brick to the bridge end.., and compared to the Wizards in my two P's and the DD's in the VM Jazz the pickups sound weaker than I was expecting..
Washburn XS4 - Had to install a seperate switch to cut the battery suply to the Active electronics, because it used to eat 9v batteries when not being used.

[throwoff]

My Ray is too quiet. and it cant be fixed. Changed batter, pickup height had it checked out and thats just how it is.

To be honest I hate it.

[risingson]

Only got my Lakland Darryl Jones 4 right now, in desperate need of another bass. It basically succeeds where my old Fender Jazz fails. My old Fender lacked any balls and my Lakland has that in spades. The only thing that my Lakland's missing perhaps is a low B, other than that I love it.

My old second hand P-Bass was an endless frustration. String response could be uneven, the electronics were totally shot and the winding in the pickup broke which required a bit of a painstaking rewind. I replaced practically all the electronics in the end because everything inside wasn't done properly and it it looked like a monkey had shielded it. By the time I'd got it reasonably sorted I was disenchanted with it and sold it on.

[charic]

[quote name='Oopsdabassist' timestamp='1323343223' post='1462149']
My Yamaha makes a horrible clicking noise when I dig in on the E string, I tried evrything I can think of, buts its still there and can be heard in the mix too

I presume I'm clagging the string so hard its either bouncing off another fret or the pup, but when I get into the choon the last thing I want to do is ease up
[/quote]

Have you considered putting something thin but spongy between the pickup and the string? A thin piece of rubber perhaps?

Other than that lower your pickup, get higher tension strings, raise your action and reign in your technique

[Mykesbass]

Cort GB75 - too many controls: push pull pot, three way selector and blend pot and some silly mid boost toggle. Apart from that it is a lovely bass with a custom ebony fretless board. I'm going passive in the new year.

[JTUK]

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1323343633' post='1462152']
[size=4][color=#222222][font=Arial]There is nothing to hate about my basses. [/font][/color][/size]

[/quote]

Me neither..which is why I bought them and have grown to love them even more.
I would fix the bleed on the pre amp battery time, if and when I get the time.

Other basses that I have sold..??
The 3 worst would be
'75 Fender jazz.... just plain awful all round. The only excuse was I didn't know any better at the time and I got sucked into the classic
Gtr Les Paul syndrome. As in must have one...at any cost, only to find the one you have is a total dog and nobody told you that these examples could throw up a huge pile of pooh...!!
Ibanez Musicman. A nothing sound..altho it played ok.
Early 80's MM ..got fed up with that sound.

[paul_5]

Nothing, I'm one happy bunny.

[neepheid]

We all love a good moan and a gripe eh?

Leaving aside the severity of the word 'hate', I only have minor gripes and niggles that I've come to accept as quirks. You work around them and in time come to appreciate them for what they are. My best mate is the best mate in the world, but he's a grumpy bugger if there's no Tennent's Lager in the pub he walks into There is no such thing as the perfect bass. But if you really want to know, here is me being super picky about my basses:

Gibson RD Artist - String through ferrules aren't drilled in a straight line, the tuners are off centre with regards to the edges of the headstock, the compression setting boosts the volume too much and can be a little hissy. Strictly active only, and you need a screwdriver to change the battery. I wonder if I could get thumbscrews with the right thread, Gibson did have the presence of mind to use threaded inserts for the battery cover screws rather than just wood screws into wood.

Gibson Victory Artist - It's very clever (for 1981) that the EQ works in passive and active modes, but it's annoying that when you're in active mode the neutral point for the EQ is on the centre detent of the bass/treble pot, but if you switch to passive then you've just cut half your bass and half your treble because the neutral point is +5 on the knob (10 effectively - no cut). I don't think there's a way round it, but it's still something that I need to watch out for. Active gives a fair thump to the amp when you switch to it for the first time if you started in passive. It's also far too refined sounding for its own good and can be difficult to get a good sound in the rehearsal room with whatever ragtag amp I have to use.

Gibson G-3 - A couple of the grub screws in the bridge saddles are broken (slotted, not hex) and need to be turned with a pair of pliers.

Gibson IV - What can I say? It's a passive VVT bass. It's not exciting, but it's solid, reliable, comfortable and sounds good. It's a Thunderbird in a sensible, balanced body shape.

Guild B402-A - The out of phase setting is pointless though, thin and nasal, there's no application for it within the parameters of the music I'm playing at the moment. Passive option is no EQ, but it's better than not being able to play at all.

G&L Tribute L-2000 - The workhorse. The "active" setting is simply a line boost, and the treble boost sounds horrible. I only ever use it in passive mode. I'm considering removing the preamp and wiring a passive mode setting for each pickup (HB, single, OMG)

Yamaha BB614 - The office/rough gig bass. I don't really have anything to say about it. It's got no passive safety valve, I might see if I can sneak a push/pull in there.

[Chris2112]

I hated anything about them, I wouldn't keep them!

[xilddx]

All Fenders. Not enough frets.

Precisions in particular, stupid nut width, awful to play.

[Lozz196]

I didn`t hate it, but the neck-dive on my Epi T-Birds took a bit of getting used to.

[charic]

[quote name='silddx' timestamp='1323349926' post='1462282']
All Fenders. Not enough frets.

Precisions in particular, stupid nut width, awful to play.
[/quote]

You see... Precisions I can play (or a reasonable attempt ) Jazzes are too skinny for me

[Stacker]

Where to start?

My first Ricky 8-string. Bought, impulsively, in '86. In tune down the bottom end, out at the top and vice-versa.
Washburn Steinberger double-neck. They didn't have the license for the head-end retainer so developed a sh*tty, Allen bolt clamp that began to fail after a while.
The 'bip-bip-bip' my Status Series II LED light made until i got it disconnected.
Banana necks on several 4001s/4003s Dunno why I bother with Rics.
Washburn Explorer 8-string whose octaves anchored at the end of the body. Thus thesilks of teh strings went over the v sharp saddles and popped the G every time. Took it back and got a refund.
Washburn fretless that buzzed like a hornet's nest. Another refund!
The 24V PSU for my Alembic Series 1
The weak-as-sin mudbucker on my old Ibanze 4001 copy.

[TheGreek]

[quote name='silddx' timestamp='1323349926' post='1462282']
All Fenders. Not enough frets.

Precisions in particular, stupid nut width, awful to play.
[/quote]

Absolutely agree - though this is tantamount to sticking one's head above the parapet!!

As others have said - if you hate your bass then sell it and get something else..many of my basses have their own idiosyncrasies which is part of the reason I still own them - If I wanted a run of the mill bass I would probably have bought a Fender...(only ever owned 3 in my life - none did what I needed them to..sold them all...Though this is true for me I know that it isn't for others..something about courses and horses)

Had a Wal MK1 custom - didn't live up to 25 years of expectation - 8loody neck contour destroyed my dreams!!! - sold it!!

I could be critical of my acoustic - makes no real noise - works in other ways though - ideal for learning stuff on..

As for my Jaydees - both do exactly what I need from them, both have the "perfect tone" which Jaydees are renowned for...
The VC excels in every way I need it to (this is how all basses should be built!!), unbelievable for a 30+ year old bass..in the event of a fire I'd grab this ..
The Overwater, though a bit complicated, is the 21st Century at it's best, the spec is fantastic, neck is a dream and green is my fave colour..
My MM Ray is a 13mm spanner - you'll need one at some point - there's a reason why there are so many about!

My only criticism might be about my most recent addition - The Mark Wood headless custom - beautifully crafted, excellent tone (chambered body/Cocobola fretboard gives it a near fretless sound) - has a bit of a balance issue...but it's headless!! Knew this might be an issue so can't really complain..and I know I'll get used to it...

With so many great basses available why put up with something that doesn't do it??

[Fat Rich]

Like a number of people here I had problems with the output of the G on my Stingray.

There's a fix for it on here somewhere but I can't find it.... basically strings off, carefully remove pickup cover, remove springs under coils, lay coils in rout in bass body, carefully press pole pieces for A and D strings until they're level with E and G pole pieces (they'll find the right level if they're on a flat surface), springs back in, cover back on, strings back on..... problem solved.

I'm now happy with all my basses.

[bremen]

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1323350232' post='1462291']
You see... Precisions I can play (or a reasonable attempt ) Jazzes are too skinny for me
[/quote]

'Sright. Horses for courses...me and Charic, we have hooves for hands.

[xilddx]

[quote name='Fat Rich' timestamp='1323353808' post='1462374']
Like a number of people here I had problems with the output of the G on my Stingray.

There's a fix for it on here somewhere but I can't find it.... basically strings off, carefully remove pickup cover, remove springs under coils, lay coils in rout in bass body, carefully press pole pieces for A and D strings until they're level with E and G pole pieces (they'll find the right level if they're on a flat surface), springs back in, cover back on, strings back on..... problem solved.

I'm now happy with all my basses.
[/quote]

You see, I really would find that completely unacceptable in an instrument of that price, and having to void the warranty by making good a design fault would piss me off to the point of suicide.

[Stacker]

[quote name='silddx' timestamp='1323355182' post='1462398']
You see, I really would find that completely unacceptable in an instrument of that price, and having to void the warranty by making good a design fault would piss me off to the point of suicide.
[/quote]

Ric horsehoes are bad for that, usually a weaker E, though I belive you can buy add-on magnets to fit over the installed ones.

Edited December 8, 2011 by Stacker

[BottomE]

Lakland 55-01 - great sound - really fleixble tone - neck like a tree trunk and string spacing too wide

Fender Jazz Mexican 5 String - terrible build quality - dull and boring

Stingray 2 EQ - on its own was a lovely bass but never sat in the mix as well as other basses. Neck was a bit hard to get used to

Tobias Growler - it was just ok at everything and didn't make me WANT to play it

[bremen]

[quote name='BottomE' timestamp='1323355927' post='1462409']


Tobias Growler
[/quote]

No! Really?