BlueMoon

You'll love it!! I have one too and it is the dog's danglies in a band set up.

I did the same thing as Doctor J. Together with some Sadowsky-branded (Dimarzio) pickups, my Levinson Blade came alive. I find the on-board Sadowsky preamp to be quite musical, and the VTC allows you to cool things down if you need to do some retro sounding numbers. One thing to be aware of, the pickup blend control is wired by default the opposite to most other blend controls. So turning the pan knob clockwise prefers the bridge pickup and vice versa. You can mess with it if needed, but I soon got used to it. Go for it, you'll be happy.

I found that placing a ribbed rubber car mat between amp and cab fixed any wandering of the amp.

Totally agree about Bravewood. Best repro Fender I've ever played and the aging is spot on, in my view.

This^^^^^^^^^

The ones I last put on that had the famous "dead" E string were purchased about 3 years back from Thomann.

My 1999 4003 had bridge lift. Not dramatic, but was getting worse with time. I fitted a V2 bridge/tailpiece and TI flats. Sorted.

Public Peace seem still to sell the Luminlay knobs. https://www.public-peace.de/meisterworks-luminlay-knob-0-to-10-volume-tone.html I don't see the fingerboard side markers listed, but they may have more info. Worth an e-mail maybe?

I'd be cautious with white spirit. It dries out the skin too much and can cause very painful cracks/fissures to develop on the finger tips, which often become infected. Well documented occupational disease and causation.

This might be helpful for you. https://www.shortscalebass.co.uk/short-scale-string-choice/

I had the same issue with the volume and tone control knobs on a Limelight P bass. Grub screws were rusted solid. I tried penetrating oil, heat from a big soldering iron, and finally a careful whack with a centre punch when I realised that the screw heads had both broken. Stuck solid!! I ended up drilling out the original grub screws with a pilot hole and carefully enlarged drill bits until I was able to ream out the remaining crap that was gumming everything up. I managed to reuse some grub screws from some old Gotoh control knobs. I guess that suggests that the original threads were metric.

Like you, I've never been a fan of overdone relicing .......and, yes, I find some are just way over the top. The Bravewood that I have has lovely crazed nitro lacquer but no bare bodywork or big dings in the body.

I can only echo what has already been said about dealing with Mark. He's a top bloke. I've had three Limelights in recent years. Two were OK - like typical parts (bitsa/partcaster) basses. One, however, was a whole lot better and had real mojo and played very nicely. So, somewhat varied edperience. Never played a Nash, but they seem to be pricey by comparison. IMO, the hands down best bass in this market sector is a Bravewood, if you can locate one. Fantastic instruments.

Here's a killer player from Iceland...........Jóhann Ásmundsson He has been bassist for funk/fusion band Mezzoforte since they formed back in the 80's.

I was once asked directions to Leicester Square. Didn't have a clue at first.........then the penny dropped. Duh! Don't get me started on cocktails that have a cerain spicy sauce from Worcester in them! Grinding teeth, for sure.

A thick felt plectrum will get you close to the same sound as using fingers.

I've experienced pretty much the same issue with most E/B flatwounds. Thomastik-Infeld being the exception though.

Sent you a PM, @Philo

Welcome to the club!

Nice one! It looks like a nice reward from a careful search. Well done!

Levelling a fretless fingerboard can be tricky without a rig to keep everything stable and correctly aligned. Essential is a sanding board with the correct/matching radius. "Steady as she goes" is the correct approach and perfectly possible for someone who can do DIY, for example.

These basses, especially the early run ones, have a good reputation and are nice players.