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BlueMoon

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Everything posted by BlueMoon

  1. Thanks.! Mateusz keeps a little stock of (mainly) Japanese basses that he has worked on. Here is a link: https://restauracja-gitar.pl/ The Buzz was indeed a custom order and came in at just under €1000, all in. I really wanted a classic sunburst P in nitro, since I believe Mark at Limelight doesen't offer this unless you provide the painted body for him.
  2. After the glowing review and recommendation by @such of his Buzz Hornet, I took the plunge and recently also sampled the work of the Polish bass builder (Mateusz Piotrowski) behind these creations. I was never really a fan of relic'd instruments, but somehow I seem to have now obtained a few in my stable (including Bravewood and Limelight), and so feel able to comment and compare. The Buzz has a Jazz-sized neck on an Alder P body, which is light and resonant. Damn........this bass is first and foremost a great "players bass"!! I appreciate that the aesthetics might not suit everybody [the relicing is stage 7 on a scale of 1 (none) to 10 (totally trashed)], but I really do not like some of the Fender Custom shop cookie-cutter examples. The build process was stress-free and took around 4 months overall. I have yet to use the Buzz in a band situation, but I am confident that it will do a great job, and I won't give a rip if it gets dinged up in the process. Here are some pics:
  3. For those preferring a DIY solution, I've found that the threaded washer that tightens down on the wheel rim of a bicycle tyre valve is a great starting point for a "thick" washer. Normal old fashioned tyre valves are the ones I mean. Inner diameter is such that it slips over the truss rod threads and the knuled outer surface can be easily filed down to exactly match the outer diameter of the truss rod. I've used this approach successfully on a MIJ Fender bass.
  4. You'll love it!! I have one too and it is the dog's danglies in a band set up.
  5. I did the same thing as Doctor J. Together with some Sadowsky-branded (Dimarzio) pickups, my Levinson Blade came alive. I find the on-board Sadowsky preamp to be quite musical, and the VTC allows you to cool things down if you need to do some retro sounding numbers. One thing to be aware of, the pickup blend control is wired by default the opposite to most other blend controls. So turning the pan knob clockwise prefers the bridge pickup and vice versa. You can mess with it if needed, but I soon got used to it. Go for it, you'll be happy.
  6. I found that placing a ribbed rubber car mat between amp and cab fixed any wandering of the amp.
  7. Great bass and Youlian is a top seller! If I didn't already have a '71 Jazz, I would be seriously interested.
  8. Totally agree about Bravewood. Best repro Fender I've ever played and the aging is spot on, in my view.
  9. The ones I last put on that had the famous "dead" E string were purchased about 3 years back from Thomann.
  10. My 1999 4003 had bridge lift. Not dramatic, but was getting worse with time. I fitted a V2 bridge/tailpiece and TI flats. Sorted.
  11. Public Peace seem still to sell the Luminlay knobs. https://www.public-peace.de/meisterworks-luminlay-knob-0-to-10-volume-tone.html I don't see the fingerboard side markers listed, but they may have more info. Worth an e-mail maybe?
  12. I'd be cautious with white spirit. It dries out the skin too much and can cause very painful cracks/fissures to develop on the finger tips, which often become infected. Well documented occupational disease and causation.
  13. This might be helpful for you. https://www.shortscalebass.co.uk/short-scale-string-choice/
  14. I had the same issue with the volume and tone control knobs on a Limelight P bass. Grub screws were rusted solid. I tried penetrating oil, heat from a big soldering iron, and finally a careful whack with a centre punch when I realised that the screw heads had both broken. Stuck solid!! I ended up drilling out the original grub screws with a pilot hole and carefully enlarged drill bits until I was able to ream out the remaining crap that was gumming everything up. I managed to reuse some grub screws from some old Gotoh control knobs. I guess that suggests that the original threads were metric.
  15. BlueMoon

    Limelight

    Like you, I've never been a fan of overdone relicing .......and, yes, I find some are just way over the top. The Bravewood that I have has lovely crazed nitro lacquer but no bare bodywork or big dings in the body.
  16. BlueMoon

    Limelight

    I can only echo what has already been said about dealing with Mark. He's a top bloke. I've had three Limelights in recent years. Two were OK - like typical parts (bitsa/partcaster) basses. One, however, was a whole lot better and had real mojo and played very nicely. So, somewhat varied edperience. Never played a Nash, but they seem to be pricey by comparison. IMO, the hands down best bass in this market sector is a Bravewood, if you can locate one. Fantastic instruments.
  17. Here's a killer player from Iceland...........Jóhann Ásmundsson He has been bassist for funk/fusion band Mezzoforte since they formed back in the 80's.
  18. I was once asked directions to Leicester Square. Didn't have a clue at first.........then the penny dropped. Duh! Don't get me started on cocktails that have a cerain spicy sauce from Worcester in them! Grinding teeth, for sure.
  19. A thick felt plectrum will get you close to the same sound as using fingers.
  20. I've experienced pretty much the same issue with most E/B flatwounds. Thomastik-Infeld being the exception though.
  21. BlueMoon

    Pricing???

    Sent you a PM, @Philo
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