Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Total Watts

96 Excellent

Personal Information

  • Location
    Bracknell, Berkshire

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Got Model Js on my Rockbass Corvette paired with an East Unipre preamp. I agree with Johndabass about the tonal options. They run quite hot which I like and have lovely punchy mids. No experience of the SDs though.
  2. My 1989 Ibanez SR800LE.....my first proper bass
  3. Now that looks a great pedal! I assume it’s a valve based preamp?
  4. They’re fascinating little things aren’t they. Being born at the beginning of the 70s, valves were really not a thing I grew with. I must admit I do love their form and function and there’s something very tactile about them.
  5. I have a GB Streamliner 900 that I have put some different tubes in. All were sourced off the dreaded eBay and none cost more than £10. V1 - some unbranded 5751 8 shot revolver getter??? V2 - Telefunken ECC83 which has a B at the start of the serial number...Berlin??? V3 - Mullard ECC83 made in Blackburn??? I chose the valves as they were cheap and seemed possibly reasonable manufacturers but I know little to nothing about valves. I wanted a lower gain valve in V1. There seemed to be a lot of talk around long and short ladders, getters and all that malarkey. The amp sounds so different in a good way now, much clearer and less distortion and just tighter sounding. I get that the 5751 is a lower gain valve so hence less grrrr at a higher gain level but why does changing one brand ECC83 to another in V2 and V3 affect the tone? Surely they are much of a muchness but I noticed a real change when I took the standard Ruby out in V2 and put in the Telefunken. Even more pronounced when the Ruby in V3 was swapped for the Mullard. Can someone explain why one ECC83 affects the tone more than another? Is it just a placebo effect?
  6. Portable!? It’s wheelable lol
  7. I run an XR18 for our 4 piece. I looked at the RCF and XR16 but wanted to futureproof. I got mine pre-owned for £250 so couldn’t pass the offer up really. I would like to get an X32 eventually but they are £££ even pre-owned. I have a router permenantly attached and a laptop hardwired to that. I also have a long Ethernet cable so that if we (rarely) have someone to do the sound, they can move the laptop wherever. Do not trust the built in router! I wanted the ability to USB out all the channels as I want to be able to record and mix our own tracks via a laptop. The routing options are immense and being able to set up all the levels and mixes to IEMS at a practice, save them and use at a gig is brilliant. You can just tweak the levels and EQ for different venues and if you play the same venue regularity, there’s the option of saving it as a preset. Downside is also the sheer amount of functionality as there is a steep learning curve as others have said. All the key stuff is done via the laptop and then tweaks to volume can be done on the fly via my phone. It’s all mounted in a small wheeled flight case. I am going to get some ventilated blanking panels to tidy up the flight case and hide wires etc.
  8. Another option may be Ernie Ball Cobalt wrapped flats and round wounds? I’ve got the flats on a couple of basses and love them as they have almost that round wound zing.
  9. Admin....can you move to repairs and technical please? Posted in wrong forum
  10. I followed Agedhorse’s excellent “how to” to remove the old blue leds and install some new slightly smaller and less bright ones. They were working intermittently so I bit the bullet despite them only serving an aesthetic purpose. It can be done with the PCB in situ with the valves removed. I’d say a solder sucker and some liquid flux is a must to be able to do the job as you are soldering in a very small area and it would be easy to over solder. The PCB clearly shows the + and — holes. I put 3mm 30mA leds in cut to length which are not as bright as the stock but ample for the purpose.
  11. I’ve check the socket and it’s genuine Neutrik from a reputable seller, CPC Farnell. I resoldered the connections and the socket and PCB are lovely and tight now. I don’t think I had the iron hot enough as I was worried about burning the board. It passes the wiggle test now lol
  12. So checked it again today and the sound is cutting out if the speakon cable is wobbled. I know that it shouldn’t happen during a gig but it worries me that it could fail completely. I think that the tangs on the PCB mount speakon are a little too short to get a good solder anchor through the board. I’m going to remove the PCB and use a normal 4 pole speakon as suggested by Downunderwonder. I’ll leave the original plate and other speakon and 1/4 jack socket but they will be unwired. It just means it can’t be used as 2 x 410 which I can’t imagine ever using anyway but could be put back to stock if required. I’m just waiting on some Faston connectors as I don’t want to solder the wires directly to the speakon tangs thanks for all the advice
  13. Thanks, I have mounted a new combo speakon socket to the PCB and everything is working as it should. If I get any more issues, I will pull the lot and just put a normal speakon wired +1 -1 to run all 8 drivers with no stereo option.
  • Create New...