BlueMoon

^^^^ this has been my experience on several occasions as well.

Goodbye tail lift and hello to easier intonation! Great upgrade while maintaining the overall vintage Ric vibe.

That's strange. He got a few for me with no issues at all.

I've always had good service on G&L from these folks in Germany: https://www.musicstore.com/en_BE/EUR/brands/g-l They don't have a G&l clf L 1000 listed in their current stock, but maybe worth a quick email? ([email protected])

Try Danny Stewart at www.bassjapandirect.com

That is absolutely stunning!!

These guys are based in Godstone, Surrey and have taken care of much of Bernie Goodfellow's (GB Guitars) finishing work. They come highly recommended. https://www.bowfinishing.co.uk/guitars/ I'm not affiliated, btw.

Yes....the same as the OP. I have far too many basses. I've tried rotating them to ensure that they all get play time.....but, the preference of most of the bands I play with is for a P bass. I noodle on the others at home, however. My better half just rolls her eyes when the topic of "how many guitars have you got?" is raised by unsuspecting visitors.

Nailed it!!

Here is a link to a review of the version I’ve been using (not affiliated, btw): https://www.loudersound.com/reviews/alpine-musicsafe-pro-earplugs-review As regards the applicator………it is a small, physical piece of hollow plastic (in the foreground of the photo). It fits over the ear plug and facilitates putting the plugs in. However, if you try to insert the plugs without the applicator chances are that finger or thumb will cover the narrow vent hole that goes through the filter. I’ve found this can lead to temporary back pressure within the ear canal, resulting in a poor seal and less effective noise isolation. My kit came with a spare ear plug (I guess in case one gets lost).

I guess we all have uniquely shaped ears and going for moulded plugs will ensure a good fit. The generic plugs will have been designed to an “average” ear canal shape. With my Alpine plugs I have found I’ve achieved a much better seal if I use the applicator that they supply with the kit. Trying to insert the plugs without the applicator forms a less efficient seal in my experience.

Personally I’ve had good experience with Alpine filter earplugs. Effective and reasonably priced.

I'm a Fender fan-boy, but..................................no!

Thank you for the detailed review and a player’s perspective that I, and probably many others, had not appreciated. I have always found EBS gear to be very robust and reliable.

@Linus27 is the sustain issue also evident when played without amplification? Is the Musicman Stingray preamp 2 or 3EQ? Folklore suggests the weak G-string dead-spots are worst with the 3EQ and vary between examples. Curious what others have to say.

......and then wait for silk to unravel before your very eyes

Agreed. Well said.

Nice one! Yamaha often reassures, and sometimes surprises. I find their quality control very good.

Describe its history and you have a snappy title: “The Life of Brian”

@Hutton it’s your bass, so do what you like. Personally I’d give it a short period (say 3-4 hours) to acclimatise, but impatience and curiosity would likely push that time to a minimum. I’ve never had any issues when I’ve unboxed directly a bass delivered in winter, either with poly or nitro.

Knobs are available in the euro-zone from: https://www.public-peace.de/meisterworks-luminlay-knob-5-to-5-boost-cut-screwable.html?language=en Not sure if they still stock the fingerboard dots though. Looks like you’ve got it sorted anyhow.

These guys may know: https://guitarshop.es/ They have a chat screen (in English)…….and the added bonus of a great selection of instruments if you have time for a visit 😎

No apology necessary. If John has done the work then you know it was done properly. Details of the original Fender parts attached below. The tandem pot will be tricky to source, the others appear to be industry standard.

It looks to me like the Fender active circuit has been modified prior to fitting to your Sadowsky, since the pots of the original circuit were soldered to the board (see example pic). In your last pic above I do not see that any pots are on the board, so changing the pots should not be a major exercise if you can locate the correct potentiometers. Am I missing something?