BlueMoon

My first look down the Spector rabbit-hole. A Dan Briggs signature model with Darkglass Tone Capule preamp. I have to admit I didn’t have a clue who Dan Briggs was! First impressions are positive, aside from it being a bit on the heavy side.

I did the same. Very musical combination.

I don’t understand the apparent pricing policy of G&L with regard to the Kiloton. Here in continental Europe, a fretted Kiloton Tribute is around €650, while the fretless version is north of €1000. Go figure!

I’d say that’s £100 well spent. Nice.

School orchestra (double bass) and found a few school mates who wanted to make music together (it was a noise, but not a very melodic noise). From there I found that being able to read music was a real bonus. I hooked up with some older guys “depping” in a swing band (I was 17, they were all with grey hair). That was a great learning for me about how a good band supports all players. They were great. The agent for the swing band also managed other local bands and - from there - I found slots in various other bands. Now I’ve got the grey hair, but still in bands several decades later. I’d say “follow your instincts”. Good luck and enjoy the journey. If it’s no longer fun, look closely at why.

Owners of ‘23 instruments - is the V2 tailpiece standard now for all new Rics? Finally cures tail lift. I had heard that they also moved to a single truss rod for current production. Anybody popped the TRC?

After the stay in the five star hotel, I hope.

I am not that that bothered on fingerboards with frets - however, on a fretless it is much more obvious to me if the edge has been rolled or not. On a P bitsa fretless I put together I took a very sharp razor blade and scraped the (rosewood) fingerboard edges at 45°. With some gentle additional work with fine emery paper the fingerboard edges were less square and acceptable to me.

I think the “90” in the PB 57-90 stamp might be confusing you. The 90 does not refer to a year. In Japan such a number refers to its selling price (90k ¥) when first placed on the market. Models for domestic market and those for export often had different specs - and hence - different sales prices (and different end numbers). From what I see in the pics, everything looks genuine. Nice instrument.

Correct

Here’s some science: https://hearinghealthmatters.org/waynesworld/2015/binaural-loudness-summation/

https://blog.judyrodman.com/2012/07/in-ear-monitors-dont-use-just-one.html#:~:text=So this loud sound coming,than using none at all.” Not sure about the science behind it, but it is generally considered poor practice.

I had a matching pair. They sound epic!

I believe the pickups were different between Mk I and Mk II versions as well. The pics shown are from a Mk I.

I gave it a listen. Tried to like it but……..meh. Beatles fan, but probably best left on original cassette.

^^^^^ This works for me as well.

I liken a P bass to a pair of well worn slippers. I’ve tried loads of other basses, but nothing works for me quite like a Precision. Fretted and fretless - I love them.

I’ve always been impressed with Jaz Lochrie’s fretless playing. Expressive and always in the groove. A different style is Johann Asmundsson, who has held the bass role in jazz/funk band Mezzoforte for decades. Also a great fretless player.

You won’t be sorry. Very musical strings, especially on fretless.

The necks on Lakland 5 string basses I find to be superb. The most comfortable ones out there for me.

Me thinks it’s a faker too.

Another satisfied Warnex user here. Not cheap, but has a more industrial vibe going on compared to some DIY alternatives.

Changing the dot side-marker positions is certainly doable for somebody competent at DIY. It also gives you the chance to install Luminlay (glow in the dark) side markers, which can be helpful on dark stages. Of course, a luthier will do a top job as well.

Overrated: slap, slap, slap Underrated: fretless