BlueMoon

Wow, that's some collection you have there. Impressed.

Also offers string-through body as well as the usual BBOT anchorage. I think this was not transferred to the Ultra, which is a shame imo.

Great job. Very nice grain hidden under that original paint job, which the Tru-Oil will reveal to the full.

Not for me.....but each to their own.

They are in the same ball-park - between 20 and 23mm on my two Limelight jazz basses.

All the very best for you!

That looks great! A classic.

I’d second this comment. Aside from weight issues on some, many that I’ve tried have been just as good as those made in the U.S. Especially the early ones made in Korea.

I’m currently going through my own sweet hell with BD. I won’t bore folks with the details, save to say that they have my money, I’m doing all the chasing, and I still don’t have my stuff. This is now six weeks since the PayPal transaction was accepted and the item was in stock. Go figure! This is not a good sign, and maybe indicative of pending issues down the road. I hope they can sort it out, since we bass players are a small, specialised community and I’d like to support small independents, wherever possible. I should say that I have purchased loads of stuff from them (all by mail order) over the years, and never once had a problem. So, come on BD………..digitum tuum evellere, or something similar!

Here you go: https://mistymist.wordpress.com/discography/metal-guru/steves-fender-slab-p-bass/

Maybe depends on whether music is a hobby or if it’s the job that puts food on the table. Most would go for option 2, given the choice I’d suppose. For me, it’s definitely option 2.

Totally agree with this ^^. It has “hot”, responsive pickups and the active/passive switch enables passive mode to be used even with a dead battery. This might seem trivial, but it’s a lifesaver in a gig situation if you forget to check the status of the battery before the set. I just don’t care for the bat-wing (bottle opener) headstock on standard current models.

Quite a talent, indeed!!

Lovely story. Thanks for sharing!

Watching this closely, guys!!

Classic and elegant. Indeed, very nice! I like it.

It's a bummer when things like this happen. I feel for you. I salute you for having a go at a cost effective repair. A totally invisible repair will be tough to achieve, because you will know that it is always there! It looks like a repair to a Hohner "cricket bat" bass, which is in Walnut satin stain........correct? If it's a solid colour, you can build up using a layering technique within the depression and then use a final matching coat to bring it up to the same fill level with a final sanding. I've not used PVA as a filler in such cases, so cannot comment specifically on its use. Feathered edges will be easier to mask than a precise repair line, but feathering normally requires blending with the undamaged surrounding surface. I'd understand that you want to try to keep the repair area as small as possible. Switching to another filler is possible as long as there are no adverse interactions between the two systems. (Do a test on a spare piece of wood). Perhaps the most important advice is use many thin layers versus a few thick/fast layers. Good luck.

Better not buy a Rickenbacker then!! Mine buzzed like a beacon and had zero - I mean zero - cavity shielding! Unbelievable on an instrument costing north of 2.5k.......grr, indeed!

Maybe a few clues here: https://www.musicradar.com/news/fender-ceo-andy-mooney-guitar-interview-2022

I bought that album..........and the up-tempo numbers had Alan Tarney's hands all over it. Not sure who it is playing the Wal in this clip though.

Nice job. Well done!!