BlueMoon

I had the same issue with the volume and tone control knobs on a Limelight P bass. Grub screws were rusted solid. I tried penetrating oil, heat from a big soldering iron, and finally a careful whack with a centre punch when I realised that the screw heads had both broken. Stuck solid!! I ended up drilling out the original grub screws with a pilot hole and carefully enlarged drill bits until I was able to ream out the remaining crap that was gumming everything up. I managed to reuse some grub screws from some old Gotoh control knobs. I guess that suggests that the original threads were metric.

Like you, I've never been a fan of overdone relicing .......and, yes, I find some are just way over the top. The Bravewood that I have has lovely crazed nitro lacquer but no bare bodywork or big dings in the body.

I can only echo what has already been said about dealing with Mark. He's a top bloke. I've had three Limelights in recent years. Two were OK - like typical parts (bitsa/partcaster) basses. One, however, was a whole lot better and had real mojo and played very nicely. So, somewhat varied edperience. Never played a Nash, but they seem to be pricey by comparison. IMO, the hands down best bass in this market sector is a Bravewood, if you can locate one. Fantastic instruments.

Here's a killer player from Iceland...........Jóhann Ásmundsson He has been bassist for funk/fusion band Mezzoforte since they formed back in the 80's.

I was once asked directions to Leicester Square. Didn't have a clue at first.........then the penny dropped. Duh! Don't get me started on cocktails that have a cerain spicy sauce from Worcester in them! Grinding teeth, for sure.

A thick felt plectrum will get you close to the same sound as using fingers.

I've experienced pretty much the same issue with most E/B flatwounds. Thomastik-Infeld being the exception though.

Sent you a PM, @Philo

Welcome to the club!

Nice one! It looks like a nice reward from a careful search. Well done!

Levelling a fretless fingerboard can be tricky without a rig to keep everything stable and correctly aligned. Essential is a sanding board with the correct/matching radius. "Steady as she goes" is the correct approach and perfectly possible for someone who can do DIY, for example.

These basses, especially the early run ones, have a good reputation and are nice players.

Yes. Perfectly normal.

This is the killer punch..............both ways (EU/UK). Virtually killed the secondhand market unless something is extremely rare/desirable or the buyer factors in (and accepts) the extra 25% or so on the local asking price. I still look though🙃

I think Macca used thick felt picks to get his characteristic tone.

Looks to me like a Schaller 3D roller bridge with a decorative surround to look more like the size/shape of the original fitment bridge/tail piece.

This would be my first approach. I just had the same thing happen to me on a Hipshot bridge. The repair is holding well, and, of course, is not seen.

Agree.......but maybe the previous owner fitted it as an attempt to fix tail lift that affects some original Ric bridges. Fixed with the V2 Ric bridge.

Me too. What does it take to drill in the correct places? I've done it myself on a few of mine over the years........never had a problem.

I think you might need an additional category "lost by arrangement". A lot of that goes on, I'm sure. If working conditions are limit exploitation, then sabotage and theft will go on apace.

Go for it! The rosewood board with blocks looks fantastic with white.😄

Yes, I have one. I like it. I think it is one of the most evolved classic Fender Jazz designs. It combines the immediately recognisable with the more modern upgrades that we have come to demand/expect. Like the truss rod wheel and through-body bridge. The ergonomics are great and, for me, the neck profile feels right. I thought the compound radius thing was more Fender BS when I first heard about it, but it is subtle and works for me. Pickups are noiseless. The sound of the active preamp is a "Marmite" thing, and I know many people do switch them out to something else. I play mostly with it in passive mode, I must say. If pushed, I would say that I prefer my Sadowsky Metro (Japan) Jazz - mainly for the VTC function.

Try looking inside a Rickenbacker if you want to get angry at the shielding.