BlueMoon

For me it was my Buzz Hornet unlined fretless P bass. Superb instrument.

Yep…..totally agree. Having loads of expensive doesn’t necessarily make you a better player!

I normally start with a flat board and add the minimum relief as needed.

I’ve found stickers by the brand Jockomo to be the best for this purpose.

My advice would be to try them first with some candle wax on the screw and just snug them on the neck a little way first.

Gotoh for me. Hipshot also very good.

Try wherever possible to avoid touching anything with silicones in it, otherwise you can get some nasty reactions taking place with paint adhesion. Keep things solvent clean and wear disposable gloves. Silicones are present in various personal care products (eg deodorants) and household care products (eg furniture polish) and stay on your hands/fingers even after washing with soap and water. Touching the surface of anything to be painted after that can be troublesome. Good luck and have fun!

I have a few nice basses but would baulk at gigging a bass costing more than 1K to 1.5K £. With a very expensive or rare instrument I would be paranoid to get it dinked. So my more exotic basses stay for home/studio use only.

If it makes you feel any better……..it’s just the same over here.

Smart bass is the term IIRC.

Same thing happened when Mike Pedulla closed his business. I was lucky enough to get a s/h Buzz for what is today silly money for a Pedulla. I also have a Status graphite multiple choice bass (can’t remember the correct model name - specified and sold on line in mid 2000’s). I was thinking of moving it on., but maybe I’ll wait.

I first prepared the knobs for paint by filling the V/T indentations on the top of each knob as well as the indent on the rim of each. Undercoat and then matt black coating. The numbers, letters and markers were prepared using white laser water slide decal film and transferring the appropriately resized images from a simple PC software. The hardest part was the alignment of each of the numbers/letters and getting the angles and spacing correct. When I was happy, I fixed the decals using satin lacquer.

I get all of this ^^^^^ It’s the “releases them” bit that I have to work on personally!!

I have to agree. I have a TD650 and a Vanderkley 2x12. They play really nicely together.

I guess dropping that sort of cash for an instrument was of no concern for the likes of Prince. Great looking instruments indeed.

Amazon sell it via Amazon.de Not sure if as a UK customer you can source via this outlet. I just got some last week!

And it does it brilliantly! Sounds great with any amp I’ve tried it with. Quality piece of kit.

Well, I was so impressed with my first P bass from this builder I asked if he’d create a PJ unlined fretless for me. No problem. So, I eventually settled on a polyester-coated ebony board. It is currently strung with Labella flats and sounds really lush. Some pics:

I have a GB Spitfire from Bernie Goodfellow. It has neck LED’s with a separate battery. I think these were installed by Martin Sims, or at least, his design. I use them sparingly when I want to be flash. Since that need is very rare, I don’t use them much. Glad you got them working.

I have a Crown xls power amp with selectable input sensitivity. I regularly use it with my Avalon U5 preamp. Sounds great.

I have both and like them equally. It just depends on what particular sound I’m after either recording or at a gig. Frankly, at a gig most folks can’t tell the difference so then it comes down to body shape for me. I prefer the P body shape.

Pink!