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Very good gig tonight. Very successful in every sense - 19 new followers on the Instagram, swathes of posts and stories and the owner of the bar (before we'd even finished, mind) emailing us offering us 9 dates over the next year. Crazy stuff. Rig was the new (to me) fender MIM standard P bass (I'll do a NBD on it, maybe), over Swiff Audio 5.8ghz into the TC Electronic BG250 combo. No pedals, no nothing. Simple as anything set up, and I got compliments from bar staff and audience members on how clear and punchy the bass was. *footwear were the same pair of puma suedes I always wear.

Ashdown 👍

I had a ‘51 P pickup that comprised tow coils side by side. It was made by a guy in Spain: Jess Loureiro. You could wire them in series, or parallel on a DPDT switch, which I tried. It was pretty pointless TBH. It sounded thin and horrible in parallel IMO but great in series. P.S. Now I think about it; not totally pointless because it was pretty hum free.

By the time this bass was made Overwater were based up north and not Denmark Street.

I've been offered a choice of these two amps as a swap for a cabinet. My playing consists of the odd open mic night with a friend and a regular small jam session. Being in my 70's I'm not expecting to play the O2 or the Albert Hall so volume isn't high on my list of requirements, in fact I've just built two BassChat BC110 cabs using speakers from an old Asdown 210, each rated at around 150 watts. I'm also about to build a 1x15, again using an Asdown driver. This time rated at 200 watts, so I'd have the option of running a 1x10 with the 1x15 @ 8 ohms, capable of handing IRO 350 watts if ever there was a need. Both the amps re rated in excess of the capabilities of the drivers, but at 4 ohms. The Warick is rated at 300W @ 4 ohms, the Ashdown 800 watts, again @ 4 ohms. My carrer was in electronics so I understand all about impedance and that either amp connected to a 16 ohm driver will produce less volume. Both amps are solid state, so no problems using high impedance drivers as there would be with a tube amp. I'm sensible so will not be cranking up the volume to max. So my question is, which one would you chose? There's agood reason for wanting to swap rather than sell the cabinet, so seeling and using the money to buy something else is not an option, otherwise I'd buy another TC Elecronic 250 Thrust, as I have one already and use it with one of the 1x10's Many thanks for your thoughts. (I think I spend as much time building gear as playing these days)

Nice cover. Sounds really good. Daryl

Ooh. I hope so.

That's better... Now we can see that the pickups are tonally in different positions. But to me the bridge looks stupid there. The illusion of the neck hanger makes the lower edge of the headstock look interesting though.

That's like, so_____ cool.

The pairs of pole pieces are only about 5mm apart. There's no way to fit two full precision coils into a 5mm gap.

Made on Denmark St? I used to hang around there endlessly in the mid 80s and the only place making anything was Andy's Guitar workshop. I guess the "Andy" was Andy Preston, business partner of Mr May ( says google) They put a very nice ebony board on my self- fretlessed fake fender jazz. Unfortunately, they glued it on with araldite and when the truss rod failed no bugger could get the board off. New neck time. I had no idea my fake fender once had an overwater fingerboard.

Yes. A 480 in walnut would make me look but still, probably not for the money they are currently asking.

My reel to reel is in the loft. I wonder if it would work if I cleaned it up. Only been up there about 45 years...

Once you've bought your reel to reel tape, you can have weeks of fun trying to find a machine to play it on that isn't either knackered or uber expensive.

I played that very bass a while ago - sometimes you pick up a bass and it just has an instant vibe about it. Killer instrument!