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Mark Adams is a name that doesn’t always get the same recognition as Bootsy Collins or Larry Graham, but his impact on funk bass is undeniable. "Just a Touch of Love" is the title track from Slave's fourth studio album, released in 1979.

I really like the Capo 😔 and the strobostomp to be honest everything else I'm less attached to.

Eek!

I had trouble with the microphone set up so I replaced it (removed the electronics too) and put a piezo pickup under the bridge but the sound is not too great, what other options might I have? Thx in advance

Spector NS5CR - transition between SSD NS5CR and Euro LX, made around 2000. I've told this story before but I first played this bass at a BC bash in 2007 and had a 'wow' moment even though it wasn't even plugged in. A member called Homerplaysbass owned it and he was the latest in a line of owners A little later on he sold it to another guy just north of London and in 2009 he put it up for sale on here and I bought it for about six hundred quid. This was a few months after selling three Smith BSR5GN basses. I discovered that the neck had a slight S curve but about 7 years later Jon Shuker managed to steam it back into shape and it's never played better. I have other basses but this one emits some pretty tasty growl and it achieves a remarkable balance of being warm but not muddy - it actually sounds like a Smith but without the mid scoop which means it plays nice with other amps. There are no deadspots at all and the B string is firm and fruity. I've modded it with custom Wizard humbuckers, coil splits, a Noll semi para preamp. Fifteen years later, there have been contenders - the Moon MBC5 is in the same ballpark but it's darker sounding, the Vigier Passion also but it's brighter sounding. But this one sits in the middle and while I might change the electronics at some point, it's a keeper.

Krakow is lovely, really beautiful City, and if you`re interested in history Auschwitz is close by. I wouldn`t say it`s an enjoyable experience but I`m very glad I went.

Thanks @urbanx, I think he's really open to anything at all. I suggested open mics as they tend to be a good way to meet people, do you have any particular recommendations?

Yeah that makes sense actually 👍

Got two VIP for Krakow, a bit spendy but around the same price as a standard UK ticket. Hotel was cheap, flights not available yet but hopefully minimal cost too. Makes much more sense to me - plus three nights in Krakow!

I had a Noble, stupidly sold it and so have another on the way. I had the Sushibox Neptunium (which I believe is effectively the same clone as the Nobelium, less the 2nd tube) at the same time as my first Noble. It was good, but it wasn’t as good as the Noble. So when the Noble reappears for me, that will be the primary board, but yes, keen to try the Luce with the Regal and Linden to find similar sounds for my other boards. Si

As an alternative to Stellartone, there are one or two suppliers of fixed, or custom made varitone switches. I have an Artec badged item I put in my Guild Starfire and I have had one made by My Humble Workshop https://www.myhumbleworkshop.com/ (also on FleaBay) that I used to replace the push button tone controls in my Nordstrand Acinonyx. The latter is the best option IMO, if you have the room to get it in your control cavity.

We control all scene changes with midi via Ableton. Though the WIDI is currently misbehaving, so I’m running a cable to our rack.

What do you connect with Widi Jack? Have some midi switcher?

Man I have the same Anker battery, it's great now you are giving me an idea!

I used to use the Cali76, HX Stomp and Capo board. Now I take the Anagram and a Tuner. And the tuner is not really needed, but I also mix my IEM through the Anagram so I prefer to have a separate mute function

This was discussed a lot on a recent thread. I made a point that is largely ignored but that I still think is relevant: TLDR version: the lower the amp power for a given volume requirement, the more speaker you need. So an Elf is more than you'd ever need into a 2x12. But the smallest possible setup will want a power amp whose power is limited only by the thermal and excursion capabilities of the best high-powered drivers. Long version with example: If your ultimate goal is the whole rig including speaker cab being as small and light and loud as possible, the best way to achieve this is a premium driver being pushed near its (reasonable long-term) limit. That usually means a single-driver of either 10 or 12", with a power handling between 400 and 600w RMS, because that's what top-end drivers are capable of nowadays. And mostly they're 8 ohms. If you drive something like a Monza (probably the best single 10 cab on the market) with a 200w/4ohm amp, you'll be driving it with ~130w at max output (8ohm). Meanwhile that driver will take 600w AES and has very high xlim, so you're probably near 5dB off its true capability which is a significant amount. You could make this up by adding a second cab/driver (+6dB at the low end), or by using a higher powered amp. Now it might be that one cab is loud enough, and indeed the Monza is likely pretty good in that respect because it's relatively large for a single 10" cab which buys you more volume in the power-hungry bottom octave. But it might not as the efficiency of this otherwise exceptional cab is pretty standard for a 1x10. Or indeed you could make an even smaller, lighter (no comp driver/horn, lose 10-15l volume) cab with an equivalent driver and make up for that low-end volume loss by driving it harder. The difference in weight and size between 200w and 800w class D amp is modest, maybe 1kg at most and a few cm either way. Adding a second cab or even just a second driver adds a lot more volume and weight than that. You pays yer money etc.