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Thanks, that would be great.

I'm reasonably certain you are correct in your wiring assumptions. If not then, I assume you'll come down and fix it for me

Gf at and creamy sounds like big muff kinda territory

Patience is key here. If it's a rosewood (or similar) fretboard then be VERY careful when removing the frets, as it splinters very easily. Heat them up with a soldering iron to let them lift themselves out of the grooves before carefully pulling them out. Get a radius block too for the smoothing/sanding after the gaps have been filled in - these come in various sizes, so check with a radius gauge first - you might need two, as some boards have a compound radius (slightly different radius closer to the nut than the bridge).

Force Ten - Rush

I don't really have any preference when it comes how the neck is attached. I'm fairly flexible on profile too, not to fussed on radius. I'm happy on my Jazz with its 38mm neck and Rick with its 44mm neck. If it is on the chunkier side at the nut then ideally it'd be slimmer back to front, rather than a baseball bat, just to keep things manageable. In an ideal world the neck will be glossed or painted, but it's not a deal breaker. I've seen a Fender Player Plus PJ, which very much looks like a P bass, but is acceptable as it's a metallic snot green. No idea what they're like though and I've read mixed things. I've also seen a Sterling 34 in seafoam sparkle that is pretty tempting. Headless might be a bit too far, one step at a time, eh?

The SP1 is doing the multiscale thing - but on the treble side more than the bass, so the higher strings will sound softer and warmer than a 34, and definitely a 35" bass (which can be quite pingy on high strings) I am expecting a decent B, but not as good as a 37".

Well, the intonation on that GG Mapleglo Ric has been fixed... 🤣 and there have been a few other modifications too, including swapping out the knobs for larger 1" diameter ones, like those on my 2023.

Or the old Kestrel basses. I've been looking for one for ages. Plus of course my seemingly endless quest for a Manson Explorer... You also very rarely see Gibson Victory basses in the UK.

I must say, that remix is pretty damned good. Well done Red.

Hi all, Thinking of ripping the frets out of my Squier Affinity jazz, I’m pretty sure some of you have done this too, so please share any hints/tips/do’s/don’t’s. Also looking for recommendations for somewhere to purchase wood veneer for the fret slots. Ta very much in advance. 😎

My latest bass

Guns Of Navarone - The Skatalites

Bah! Already out of stock! I shall comfort myself that I'd have preferred red.

I’ll look into them, thanks.

I have done that thanks….I’m looking for any Basschat experience as a helping hand. If a link is given I can send it to the USA.

Bang Bang - BA Robertson

I used K12-2’s with a previous band. Never gave us a moment’s problem. Sound was excellent but some slightly harsh upper mids. The two speakers we’re looking at would be of comparable quality. QSC make good kit but like a lot of US stuff it is not cheap over here.

I have owned a Fafner since 2009. It still works great and generally all EBS amps are really reliable and share a similar-ish preamp, drive and compressor design. The Fafner is an older style design compared to the HD350 and TD650, which I have always found to sound a bit more refined, but the differences are really subtle. The current 802 is essentially a Rolls Royce of an amp which I would love to try but haven't. The main design flaws of the Fafner are: - the cosmetic bulb which glows red is prone to blow, however this does not affect the operation of the amp. It is worth replacing it with an LED bulb which will last longer; - the fan is on the side, so despite being a 3U unit you need a 4U rack case to allow for ventilation; and - it is 620 watts at 2 ohms, so using at 8 ohms it is a little bit unpowered compared to its size, but still useable in a gig (I use it with a single 8 ohm 15 inch cab for rock gigs and rehearsals without a problem). My favourite features: - awesome compressor; - loads of headroom on the preamp; - really great drive control; - really flexible preamp; - the 'Bright' control offers fantastic control of high frequency articulation; and - the master control has a really useable and practical volume taper, so it does just go from silent to really loud (like my Mesa Big Block). If it is a used amp, try replacing the preamp tube (it is really easy to do so), as it might improve the sound of the drive control. Funnily enough, my back up amp for the Fafner used to be a Trace Elliot 300 SMX!