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Yep the Boss WL20 works well, pretty much the easiest to use on the market, just plug them together and they do it all for you. If concerned about running on 2.4 as the Boss does then NUX do one that runs on 5.8 and is almost as easy to use - a couple of small on/off buttons.

I bought a TC BH800 off Kim. Great to deal with, super efficient and I can't wait to get stuck in with the Toneprint effects! Highly recommended.

Tried plugging 2 basses in (1 in A 1 in B) with A+B disengaged. Channel A selected and the bass is nice and clear, select Ch B and the bass is inaudible unless the Drive is cranked and there is a low level (massively overdriven by now) output. Pretty sure that is not how it is meant to work; I've even read the manual. I can only surmise that Ch B is fecked! It can't be used as a 2nd channel nor can it even be summed with A to give a bit of Drive because any combination involving Ch B drops the volume and you'd need to put the Drive on 100% to even hear anything (which would still be loads quieter than A). Looks like a repair job or return to seller!

I had a Boss WL20 (with the Cable Tone) for ages and love(d) it. I just set my EQ to allow for the slight ‘top’ it gave. I found it gave me some ‘punch’. After struggling with dropouts recently I put this down to the (slightly) busier pubs we were playing so changed to the Blackstar Airwire i58 as it was the ‘most similar 5.8ghz from a brand I trust’ I could find. This one has switchable cable tone which I’m currently liking ‘on’. OK I have to remember to charge them but I don’t have ‘another thing to plug in’. I would add that I don’t really run (or walk!) about that much but I like the tone it gives me and they are great for sound checks as you can get to the back of the venue to see how it sounds.

Certainly looks like it! (Edit) According to Google… Dave Lee Travis was a host of the German music show "Beat-Club" from 1966 to 1969. He replaced the original host, Gerhard Augustin, after eight episodes.In early 1969, Travis was replaced by Dave Dee, of the band Dave Dee, Dozy, Beaky, Mick & Tich.

Having joined another band playing a few outdoor jolly’s I feel the urge to run about albeit slowly at my age. a]Anyone recommend a wireless that doesn’t rob your bottom or squeeze your epic solo moments to death? Be nice if a mortgage wasn’t required I’m talking fundays and weddings not Glastonbury lol

Yes it's a great venue. I'm struggling to get in with other busy Leeds venues. We've played packhorse and crank studios which were nice but it's great to be somewhere that people can find you easily rather than being stuck in the top room of a pub. Any ideas gratefully received. Chris

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404205416058

Agreed and I'm not plugging anything into B but when you plug into the A input and engage A+B button using the switch to go from A > A+B there is a massive volume drop which you can't compensate for (it literally feels like going from 10 down to 1 or 2). Effectively with a single instrument it is a single channel pedal and trying to add channel B to add drive (or clean) reduces the volume to unusable levels. I'm now off to plug basses into A and B to see what we get.

I had a Spectorcore Fretless, a great bass, very versatile.

I don’t know Lee, but happy to help, donated. Hope he manages to hang on to one!

Hi. It says that Ch B can be added to Ch A using the A+B button and selecting A/B It says you can use a second instrument on Ch B through input 2 but it doesn't say you can monitor input 1 on Ch B So with the instrument in input 1 you can have Ch A, and Ch A+B That's what I'm working out from the manual?

To avoid the drop outs you'd be better off avoiding the 2.4 systems as that is where most of the issues occur, however some folk manage perfectly well with them. If you want low/no latency you really want to be avoiding the cheapie (sub £60) systems... with the caveat that plenty people manage with the latency (be aware latency is cumulative if you have other digital systems in your pathway; inc radio trans/rec, desks etc).

Looks like a rather uncomfortable body shape, a slab with no arm contour.

Any recommendations for my playing situations? Which are (a) pub cover bands, (b) jam nights and open mics, (c) rehearsals and (d) home learning and practices. I'm on a budget and looking at £300 max for systems with no latency issues and reasonable audio that doesn't break up or sound shitty on the low strings. A little hiss would be ok. I'm looking at an XVive type system for (b) and (c) and a rackable system for (a) and (d)** A wireless system might come in handy as I've just got an analogue splitter/mixer to use as a band IEM mixer and we all need to get feeds from the headphone amp it feeds. **though I've got a wired setup as a backup with a MA400 personal monitor amp fed PRE from my pedal's DI out and POST into a DI box, which feeds my stage amp. FOH can take the PRE or POST from either thru port. I've read mixed reviews of the XVive U4. A sax-playing mate has one, but she doesn't like the cut-outs in a busy gig.

Judging from his vocal mic, it sounds like quite a bit of reverb going on?

Hi Ian, TLDR: recommend upgrading your IEMs. Plenty of options: in my case I've found KZ ZARs work very well and at around £50 from Ali Express they're excellent value. Combine with a decent preamp pedal and a tailored mix from your desk and you'll be good to go! The desk we both use (A&H CQ18T) has very decent preamps and the quality of sound was a step up from our Soundcraft MTK12 which isn't bad, by any means. We are also both using Xvive U4s (which btw are purely mono, so not sure your cunning plan for stereo is going to succeed!) My first IEMs were also Shure 215s. I'd say they were ok (say = 4/10). I subsequently upgraded to Shure 315s (= 5/10). Having read through the first 300 posts (!) on the IEM bible thread, I got some KZ ZS10s which seemed to be the BC go to value model at the time. The KZs with their multi-drivers were a definite step up in articulation and clarity over the Shures (= 6.5/10), but a little harsh in the treble and I found them a little wearing, and I was half tempted to give up on IEMs at that point. I then came across KZ ZARs IEMs, which are double the price of the ZS10s (but still amazing value at £50 on Ali Express), but have been worth every penny for me. Fuller more rounded response (= 8/10). The CQ18T also allows each of us to have tailored mixes, and I've found the combination of a decent preamp pedal and tailored mix from the desk (with the bass guitar boosted in my personal mix) has made IEMs work very well for me. Hope that helps!

My Dingwall arrives tomorrow! So excited! I went for the metallic black instead of the white, good thing the folks in bassdirect are amazing. Are the strap buttons in these basses Dunlop? I have a Dunlop straplok on my strap installed so it would be good if they come with it.

Excellent news. Always glad to be able to help. 🙂

I've read the manual, I've watched the videos, so I'm assuming it isn't me using it wrong but I need to check... Plugged into input A, nothing plugged into input B, volume at 90%, Boost down and all buttons out/EQ centred. The preamp has a nice healthy output and tone. Hit channel B button and there is a massive volume drop (huge, almost inaudible). Back to channel A, engage the A+B button and switch to B (the 2 channels should combine), massive volume drop. I can increase the Drive setting but channel B is then full on Drive and not much volume, flick back to A and it is back to a healthy setting. In summary, whenever channel B is engaged there is a huge drop in output. I've tried engaging various buttons etc but nothing changes that basic issue; neither does increasing the Boost, that simply makes A even louder. Is this unit defective or am I missing something?