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Hey guys, I'm looking to get a 2nd hand Elite 4 string (if one pops up!), however I'm also looking at the American Pro 2. Anyone played both and can advise if any or much difference in the neck profiles? I love the neck on the elite and prefer slim necks so hoping the Pro 2 is as slim or close enough. I recently had a Performer series and didnt really like the neck on that. Any help appreciated 🙂. Cheers Freddie

I suppose I'm saying there is something in between. which is probably not particularly helpful The main thing that you want from a bass cab is that it is rigid and strong and as airtight as you can get it. In this case the cab is going to be portable so it would ideally be lightweight and tough enough to take knocks along the way. Already you have to compromise, lightweight timbers are almost always softer than those with more densely packed fibres so even in an ideal world there are choices to be made and probably no simple 'right' answer. Plywood is a man made material, there are lots of variables in it's manufacture. The species you use for the plies can vary and wood itself is a variable product between trees and even within a single tree there can be variation in the wood. Then you have variations in how the wood is handled and the resins and glues used to bind the plies together. There are British standards for the glues used and the resistance of the cores (based upon European Standards) and grading for the quality of the face veneers A-D commonly B-BB where B is the best face but not perfect and BB is meant for the inner surface often with small patches but still good enough to take a paint finish. The last ply I bought from B&Q was graded B-BB. The thing is there is such variation most of us won't try to specify. Often the better grades are only available in large qualtities so you aren't going to be able to specify. I have some block board in front of me with tropical hardwood (FSC) outer veneers 1.8mm thick. Three 8x4 sheets cost me an arm and a leg and had to be supplied by my timber merchant as part of a much larger order. These were for some furniture btw not for cabs. The reality is that unless you want to spend a fortune and hours searching you are pretty much stuck with the ply supplied by the big sheds. If you buy hardwood ply which is grede 2 or 3 (exterior grades) then you are going to get a reasonable quality product. I've got mine from Wickes over the years as I can go in and sort out the best sheets in the pile. If you look along the cut edges you can see if there are a lot of voids and if the edges are separating or splintering. Honestly I doubt if you would really hear much difference in the completed cab. I know a couple of people here who have made a cab with softwood ply I shudder to think about it, but they built a cab that worked. So my advice is to buy the best ply you can find, be aware of the gradings but don't agonise if the choice is down to take it or leave it, you can still build a great cab. Probably the lower grade is ging to affect the finish more than the sound of the cab.

I keep thinking about a JMJ Mustang. Not sure I could cope with the neck width though. I like a skinny neck 99% of the time but I’ve never tried a P neck width with the short scale and it might be ok. I’ll have to find a dealer who won’t mind me playing all day and then potentially saying no.

@uk_lefty I guess there's often going to be a bit of steep learning curve initially with a new multi-fx. I think having got mine after getting up to speed on the GT1000 Core, it was very familiar territory for me. Picking up your Qs in turn: 1. There's two main 'global' fx banks: "preset" and "user" - you should obvs feel at liberty to overwrite any in the user bank and order them how you like there. 2. The PEQ block is my starting point for EQ and you can select what frequencies you want to cut / boost - so for me a low cut combined with a +3db boost at 125Hz works well for a meaty low end that's not boomy. 3. Recommend spending a bit of time getting up to speed on out how to assign controls to select what parameter of which effect block you want to trigger. This opens up so many fab possibilities. What you're looking to do to get Channel 1 with an option to "mix in" channel 2 would simply require you to e.g. assign Cntrl 1 --> divide block to switch it from operating as single-path (A) to dual-path. I'm particularly liking using the expression pedal to smoothly increase the gain on an amp block to go from mild overdrive to fuzz, whilst simultaneously reducing the output level so the patch level stays constant. All done by parameter assignment. It's a very powerful tool at your disposal! 4. I'm not using a vast number of effects - 8 or so including pitch shift. So it's not difficult to scroll through with the up/down foot buttons. For most patches I have it set it 'clean' on one parallel path and my particular fx on the other path which I trigger using the Ctrl button. And then variations of an fx patch (e.g. tremolo rate or amount of drive) using the expression pedal. I've also got a couple of pitch shift patches set to +1/-1 semi as the patch options and +2/-2 semis, plus separate ones for octavers ("poly octave" for octave down and "overtone" for octave up). Hope that helps. Good luck!

I had a Digbeth 500 like yours and looked at the 212 matching cab but 30 kg in this day and age is a no from me but glad you like yours.

Well done selling out the Bungalow. Nice one @jezzaboy Look forward to seeing some pics of the new P bass when it arrives. Dave

... but someone still decided to Photoshop that original photo, probably trying to convince people that Jaco also has been seen playing a 4-string Fender: 😄

Wire - U2

Played the Bungalow in my home town of Paisley last night. Weather was a bit miserable and we weren`t sure how many tickets we had sold prior to the gig. With pre sales and on the door we sold it out so the venue and us were well happy. It`s a great small venue, drink isn`t too expensive and Kev the soundman is a cool guy who used to work in the Hard Rock Cafe in Glasgow, one song and the soundcheck was done. I used my Greco P bass prob for the last time live as I have a US P coming next week. The only downside to the gig is I had done my ligament in my knee and the rhythm guitarist had one of his many knee op`s on Xmas eve so I had to sit down at one point whilst he stayed standing for the whole gig, both our knees are bloomin sore today but we got the gig done.

I'd love to. But suffering Post - Christmas bank account 💰 plus I need to settle up with the Tax Man before the end of this month before I can fork out on any more 🎸 I'm certainly in the market for a 5 string Spector (I already have a 4) and just curious to know how much the seller was looking for 🤔 Many thanks for the offer though.

Wireless - Cardiacs

Found what I was imagining...

Jaco only needed 6... (and no, it's not AI!)

That's some bass, Man. Enjoy 🤓 👍And thanks for posting the photo.

Mark

I'm not your wife...

It was interesting to compare it to my American Original Jazz - the Original's Pure Vintage 64's are meant to be overwound, so you'd generally expect a lot less output compared to the modern basses, but the Original is much more present and punchy.

Count me in for tier 1! Making a commitment to focus on 1 bass, just play and not think too much about gear anymore. 🤞 Need to abstain haha

The Notional

Ẇank Williams

U5. Nice.

Im Jaco and so is my wife