Muppet

Fret buzz on upper frets usually means that you need to tighten the truss rod to decrease the relief in the neck. You should measure the gap at the 7th fret E string, whilst holding down the string at the first and last fret (a capo is useful here unless you have three arms). This effectively uses the string as a straight line. Once you have set your relief correctly then raise or lower the strings to your preferred height. If you can get rid of the buzz but your strings are too high then a small shim in the neck pocket at th heel of the neck will work. If you can't get rid of the buzz then it may be worth considering a fret dress. I'd always start with the simple things first then work up to the more complicated solutions.

I have looked at your manual - as long as you are connecting the MP3 player with the correct type of cable to the CD/Aux in and your bass is connected to the 'Normal' input then there should be no loss in bass volume as far as I can make out. If you turn the MP3 player OFF but leave it connected, does the volume still stay low? If you unplug it, does the voume suddenly increase again?

I've found that on a lot of basses, the tuner post can rattle when not under tension and seem loose when in fact it isn't designed to be super tight. I don't think a specific torque setting would apply here, more a careful check that the screws holding the tuner on to the headstock are firm - they are only screws in wood after all. If you mean the hexagonal nut that locks down over the post on the front of the headstock is loose, I would make sure that it is tight so that the tuner casing is held firmly in place. If the post rattles after that, then so be it, it should be ok.

Are you saying that the volume of the guitar drops from what it is without the MP3 player plugged in, or is it the volume of the MP3 player that is low? have you increased the MP3 player volume?

[quote name='EskimoBassist' post='118913' date='Jan 11 2008, 11:39 PM']TBH there are a lot of really great pedals out there and as i have only tried a few i spose im not so qualified to answer, but i will anyway! I've got myself an ODB-3 and i really don't think it's as bad as many would say, worth £30 atleast. Just don't be a tool and go full gain really! I've also got a USA Big Muff which i actually really quite like however about 5mins ago i bidded on the russian counterpart, especially considering it's popularity amoungst bassists. I know this is more of a fuzz but even so i thought it was worth a mention. I've got to say though, perhaps my favourite distortion would be one that i created on my Korg A3000B and i really overuse it! It's very gritty but without too much gain, think Commerford and believe me im not far off. Hope that helped Rich[/quote] Curious to know what settings you're using to get that - I'm always on the look out for cool patches. Can you let me know so I can try it on mine? Cheers

I've seen it before! It's only a mnemonic that you learn. You can make up your own (more relevant) version and probably have more success...

Analogman Chorus or EBS unichorus are both great for bass

[quote name='ARGH' post='117510' date='Jan 9 2008, 10:50 PM']whats the band called Tony?[/quote] Strange name for a band.

Agree with the above. You need to leave 24 hours between coats and then when finished you are talking weeks for paint to harden sufficiently at normal temperature (assuming you're not using a commercial oven). A good quality acrylic clear coat can be applied after you've cut back the dried paint layer but very lightly for the first few coats allowing to dry properly between each. Once the clear coat is hardened (another couple of weeks ) you can then cut it back, leave for another week (as the layer underneath the one you've just cut is then soft) then you can polish. To do it properly takes me six weeks or so. I might be overly cautious but I generally get good results. If you're doing this outside or in a garage then the current weather ain't gonna help either.

In the past I have used a hairdryer to heat the warped part and then as you say, sandwich it between some heavy books.

This guy's still at it! Every week he puts up an auction for this bass. It's been posted on here so many times I feel I actually own it. He bought a refinished/repaired bass from a well know dealer in the US and is having no success in sorting out some compensation, resorts to relisting it on ebay instead.

to add You need to be able to dedicate a reasonable amount of time to it - some covers bands are gigging every weekend more or less and that, together with regular rehearsals if you are adding to your set, can take a fair chunk of your free time. You need to be prepared to play songs you may not like, if audiences like them. Conversely, playing a set of all the songs you like might not get you the rebooking.. It can take well over a year of playing the little places for crap money untill word of mouth sees you moving to bigger and better things. I wouldn't rely on making a load of extra money, after catering for travelling expenses ans servicing etc of equipment. Unless you're doing corporate stuff then in my experience it's just a bit more than beer money. If you're in financial difficulties (not that you are) then it's not going to get you out of it. Saying that - it's good fun and learning covers (if you learn them well) can really broaden your skillset. Steve

Ask and ye shall receive. It'll fit all three hole mounting Fenders, not just the Deluxe.

[quote name='SMART' post='114289' date='Jan 5 2008, 07:31 PM']We only sell the best tuners.. We're going to place another order.....[/quote] Who's 'we' ? Are you a store? Have I missed something?

[quote name='Musky' post='113775' date='Jan 4 2008, 09:39 PM']That sounds like Beedster's 'placebo effect'. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=8436"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=8436[/url][/quote] Absolutely, a lot of it is about how you 'feel' when owning or playing one, rather than the more tangible body routing or neck alignment.

It's the stuff you can't quite put your finger on that makes them, not the physical things themselves. Japanese models, no matter how good quality wise will never have it. They will always be Japanese. You can get a custom shop issue that feels and sounds like a 70s Fender and will be of much better physical quality but it still won't have it. It's a heart thing not a head thing and that's what makes them great.

I agree you have to be careful with shipping but IF you ask all the right questions and discuss with the seller then MOST of the problems can be avoided (notwithstanding genuine mistakes as per WOT). I recently imported a brand new Fender Jazz, and customs, VAT and handling charges came to £101, which I thought quite reasonable. This was by USPS which I find is the most reliable of the shippers from the States, in my experience.

I think the outer casing is sturdy enough but the inners are a bit cack - the mickey mouse VU meter is glued in and doesn't provide any useful function. I also had a Bass Drive and held on to it for all of three days. Some online retailers are selling off their stock of these pedals for £35 each, which, after an initial retail price of £89, might tell you something....

[quote name='Higgie' post='112349' date='Jan 2 2008, 03:27 PM']NEVER!!!! Compression after effects for taming peaks, and not killing dynamics [/quote] You forgot to say - only in your opinion. For example, I have tried my compressor in many different positions in my signal path and for my combination of pedals, first position gives the cleanest sound for me and also allows more of the character of my pedals to come though. There is no one single optimum place for a compressor, as with everything, it all depends an what sound you want to achieve and what pedals you have. Try the compressor first and last and see what happens. Another common place is directly after distortion but before any modulation. Trust your ears not your eyes.

The thomann one works if you have a narrow width strap and no plastic buckles that you need to thread through it. If you do have a plastic buckle or adjuster on your strap then you cna't feeld it through the plastic slot of the Thomann holder. I find mobile phone holders work well, although I generally carry transmitters on my belt.

Jamie, if you are prepared to go a bit further then Panic Music are located halfway between Huntingdon and Cambridge and they're an official (maybe the only one) Ampeg service and repair centre.

I'm not a great fan of the MAG cabs, although I do like the ABM range. The MAG cabs I owned always sounded a bit wooly and muffly and sucked any clarity out of the tone. The ABM cabs on the other hands I have found to be really good. I guess the only way of checking is using your amp with a different cab to see.