Muppet

Agree with the above. You need to leave 24 hours between coats and then when finished you are talking weeks for paint to harden sufficiently at normal temperature (assuming you're not using a commercial oven). A good quality acrylic clear coat can be applied after you've cut back the dried paint layer but very lightly for the first few coats allowing to dry properly between each. Once the clear coat is hardened (another couple of weeks ) you can then cut it back, leave for another week (as the layer underneath the one you've just cut is then soft) then you can polish. To do it properly takes me six weeks or so. I might be overly cautious but I generally get good results. If you're doing this outside or in a garage then the current weather ain't gonna help either.

In the past I have used a hairdryer to heat the warped part and then as you say, sandwich it between some heavy books.

This guy's still at it! Every week he puts up an auction for this bass. It's been posted on here so many times I feel I actually own it. He bought a refinished/repaired bass from a well know dealer in the US and is having no success in sorting out some compensation, resorts to relisting it on ebay instead.

to add You need to be able to dedicate a reasonable amount of time to it - some covers bands are gigging every weekend more or less and that, together with regular rehearsals if you are adding to your set, can take a fair chunk of your free time. You need to be prepared to play songs you may not like, if audiences like them. Conversely, playing a set of all the songs you like might not get you the rebooking.. It can take well over a year of playing the little places for crap money untill word of mouth sees you moving to bigger and better things. I wouldn't rely on making a load of extra money, after catering for travelling expenses ans servicing etc of equipment. Unless you're doing corporate stuff then in my experience it's just a bit more than beer money. If you're in financial difficulties (not that you are) then it's not going to get you out of it. Saying that - it's good fun and learning covers (if you learn them well) can really broaden your skillset. Steve

Ask and ye shall receive. It'll fit all three hole mounting Fenders, not just the Deluxe.

[quote name='SMART' post='114289' date='Jan 5 2008, 07:31 PM']We only sell the best tuners.. We're going to place another order.....[/quote] Who's 'we' ? Are you a store? Have I missed something?

[quote name='Musky' post='113775' date='Jan 4 2008, 09:39 PM']That sounds like Beedster's 'placebo effect'. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=8436"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=8436[/url][/quote] Absolutely, a lot of it is about how you 'feel' when owning or playing one, rather than the more tangible body routing or neck alignment.

It's the stuff you can't quite put your finger on that makes them, not the physical things themselves. Japanese models, no matter how good quality wise will never have it. They will always be Japanese. You can get a custom shop issue that feels and sounds like a 70s Fender and will be of much better physical quality but it still won't have it. It's a heart thing not a head thing and that's what makes them great.

I agree you have to be careful with shipping but IF you ask all the right questions and discuss with the seller then MOST of the problems can be avoided (notwithstanding genuine mistakes as per WOT). I recently imported a brand new Fender Jazz, and customs, VAT and handling charges came to £101, which I thought quite reasonable. This was by USPS which I find is the most reliable of the shippers from the States, in my experience.

I think the outer casing is sturdy enough but the inners are a bit cack - the mickey mouse VU meter is glued in and doesn't provide any useful function. I also had a Bass Drive and held on to it for all of three days. Some online retailers are selling off their stock of these pedals for £35 each, which, after an initial retail price of £89, might tell you something....

[quote name='Higgie' post='112349' date='Jan 2 2008, 03:27 PM']NEVER!!!! Compression after effects for taming peaks, and not killing dynamics [/quote] You forgot to say - only in your opinion. For example, I have tried my compressor in many different positions in my signal path and for my combination of pedals, first position gives the cleanest sound for me and also allows more of the character of my pedals to come though. There is no one single optimum place for a compressor, as with everything, it all depends an what sound you want to achieve and what pedals you have. Try the compressor first and last and see what happens. Another common place is directly after distortion but before any modulation. Trust your ears not your eyes.

The thomann one works if you have a narrow width strap and no plastic buckles that you need to thread through it. If you do have a plastic buckle or adjuster on your strap then you cna't feeld it through the plastic slot of the Thomann holder. I find mobile phone holders work well, although I generally carry transmitters on my belt.

Jamie, if you are prepared to go a bit further then Panic Music are located halfway between Huntingdon and Cambridge and they're an official (maybe the only one) Ampeg service and repair centre.

I'm not a great fan of the MAG cabs, although I do like the ABM range. The MAG cabs I owned always sounded a bit wooly and muffly and sucked any clarity out of the tone. The ABM cabs on the other hands I have found to be really good. I guess the only way of checking is using your amp with a different cab to see.

Ask Nicky Wire - he plays them. Ooops, sorry, he pretends to, probably not the best endorsement come to think of it....

A young lad I knew had the same problem, even after I had set his bass up properly with a slightly higher than normal action. We sat down and I watched him play and it transpired that his 'clank' was his left hand fretting technique, in that he was grabbing the neck quite hard in the palm of his hand, curling his thumb over edge of the fretboard and slapping his fingers down on the strings to fret them. We changed his playing style so that his thumb was well placed on the back of the neck and his fingers gently fretted each note before his pick struck the strings. The point is that we automatically assume the bass is badly set up, or that there is a problem with equipment.....

I wonder where he got the 'turd brown' description from?

The problem I can see is that you lose the flexibility of a separate extension, meaning your whole rig is tied together with more that just an instrument cable. Not a problem if you constantly play tiny venues I guess. I have a 1U rack strip with a 4 way extension on it that I can use to plug everything in my rack in to and then have a single plug to a power socket. I can also plug an extension lead in to this to power a pedal board. Of more concern to me is the number of venues where the whole band has to run PA, lights and amps off two sockets.......

Maybe there's only one guy - I always spoke to Dan too!

Their forum might be hit and miss but their customer service has always been excellent in my experience. I'd not put it past them to chuck you one out free if you give them the sob story..

Moral of the story - always check the simple things first! Glad that it's all sorted.

Thankfully I have a garage