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[quote name='Maximus' post='44022' date='Aug 10 2007, 10:38 PM']Forget the ibanez pd-7! Sell it and buy my amazing Crowther Hotcake XLF (extra low frequencies) It is really a great pedal, I am selling it because i'm not in a band at the moment and need the cash! Consider it Just go to my for sale thread in my sig and listen to that video .[/quote] Aha! The only distortion pedal I've stuck with for any great length of time. I love the sound from this pedal. The ODB3 is the sort of starter distortion pedal in my opinion. It's a place to start, if only to decide what is and what isn't good. Jam jars, wasps, say no more.

It will fit any American Fender from 1994 onwards - i.e. when they started using three screw fixing and string through bodies. It won't fit a five hole fixing. I use them on all my Precisions save one.

Mine looks like this. I feel cheated. No porn or gambling, just useless bass advertising..

Just a little bit further down the forum finds this which may be of some help [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3779"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3779[/url]

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='40799' date='Aug 3 2007, 10:12 AM']think there are a few combos that have them don't ampeg make a combo with a built in tuner?[/quote] Sure do. The BA range have inbuilt tuners.

Has it got the 'edge' control on this one?

I use a SVT4PRO with a 610 Ampeg cab. Much easier to transport than a 810 - more or less the same looks and sound.

just sell the S1 pot together with the push button knob. You'll get just as much as if you include the control plate!

Great choice. They enhance the sound of a quality guitar. I'm sure you'll love it.

Yes it's very possible. The pickups are the same you just need to wire them differently. Your problems will be getting hold of the Fender S1 switch. They are very protective over them and you can't buy them as spares as far as I can make out. You can, however buy a push/pull pot and wire it the same as the S1 switch very easily.

if it's halfway in then you've still got some of the shaft sticking out. Either, take a file and file the sides of the screwhead square so you can get a purchase on it with a pair of molegrips, or take a small hacksaw blade and file a slot in the top of the screw so that you can use a slotted screwdriver. Drill and tap - well, you'll need to cut the shaft off first then use a fine reverse thread drill (stud extractor) As it's in wood you don't need to re-tap in the regular sense as any wood screw will do this.

I put on a gig tonight night and the second band used an Ashdown MAG300 head with a Ampeg cab. After a couple of songs the cab went quiet but the amp still functioned, as did the DI signal to FOH. Unplugging the cab and waiting a while then plugging back in resolved the problem initially but then it happened again, so I jumped up on stage and swapped the head with my SVT4PRO that I brought along and no further problems. So, is this a failsafe in the cab or head, or a problem with the cab or head, anyone care to make an educated guess? S

Got mine from that shop in Germany. They have a good distributor and can source from Belgium too if they've not got any.

Chris are you prepared to buy new? if so then [url="http://www.musicstore.de/is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/MusicStore-MusicStoreShop-Site/en_EN/-/EUR/ViewProductDetail-Start;pgid=?SKU=BAS0002017-000&ProductUUID=0&JumpTo=OfferList"]here[/url] is a great bet. Steve

I've never seen on in white with black binding. I much prefer it over the black - very very sophisticated. Excellent.

I'm also recommending the Lakland DJ. Best Jazz that I've ever owned. BUT, if that's too expensive, the next best is the Japanese 75 reissue in my opinion which is superb.

Your amp ain't gonna do loud like a 35w guitar amp is going to do loud. I had a 35B and it just doesn't do it - it's a practice amp after all. It'll only go as loud as it's going to go - then you need a bigger powered amp, either a bass amp or PA. There's no real way around it as all you will end up doing is overdriving the input stage of your amp and getting a real nasty sound. Then it'll go bang.

Automotive products generally work, but they are designed for removing oxidised lacquer and paint so I'd not use them too often as they do actually remove a fine layer. Saying that, there is a product in a tube called scratch remover or similar, that works very well - found in Halfords. Guitar polish is quite good also and Fender do a 'swirl remover' product by Meguiars that they claim does the trick, though I've yet to try it.

is it an NC or a RS combo?

Top answer there Pete!

erm, best value for money cables are those purposely built by our very own OBBM on here. Take a look at his feedback thread. Seeing the quality of Dave's cables will not make you rush out and spend £88 on a monster cable, that's for sure. Watch the +1s stack up on this thread.

I'm sure someone had a very similar situation with a US ebay dealer recently (over a refinish of a vintage Jazz I believe) - remember there were a couple of protest ebay auctions as a result. I wonder if it could the same dealer? FWIW I think the stance Chris has taken is excellent and truly representative of the BW community. He's not legally obliged to act in this way which makes it all the more laudable.

I use the Toneworks AX3000B for my covers band where a number of different sounds are needed. I find that it is excellent. It is easy to use and easy to get the sound you are after. It's also pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things.