3below

S/H G&L tuners are a good buy when available, aluminium posts with taper. The wilkinsons are well made, excellent value however I like the tapered post to lower string wind downwards. Each to their own.

50 ms at 330 m/s (speed of sound approx figure) gives 16.5 m distance. Given the sound has to travel to the reflecting surface and back gives 8.25 m distance from reflecting surface. How helpful this calculation is is debatable.....Just ensure the cab is less than 8.25 m from any reflecting surface

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1403289423' post='2481594'] .. it sounds superb and the DI send comes through great through the FOH [/quote] You might have part of the answer here - keep it, swap / trade / sell rest of kit, turn these into a good power amp (inherently fairly neutral - or should be) and get same or similar speakers to FOH. I would suggest experimenting at the other end as well, my biggest game changer has been TI flats, if they had existed (?) If I had found them a long time ago I would have saved a fortune. The next biggest changer was getting a Barefaced Big One (at a bargain price) followed by a Dubster.

Duff string?, if you have the old one put it back on, see if problem disappears or remains.

[quote name='Telebass' timestamp='1403365094' post='2482161'] Leave it alone and put some thread lock on the saddle screws. There's nothing whatever wrong with the standard bridge. [/quote] Agree with this, another nice option is the Wilkinson BBOT bridge. Another cheap solution if you are experiencing side to side movement is to pull each bridge saddle into it's neighbour using a small cable tie around each pair of side by side saddle screws. In my youth, the era when the Badass bridge appeared and it was all the rage I thought what a good idea. 40 years of bass playing later tells me save the money. I have never had any problems with the standard briodge.

Guitar Tapp Pro, amazing for the money - less than a beer or glass of wine. I have no connection with developers. I had started to program my own app then found the above. Absolute bargain for 'peanuts' money. It will get tabs, chords etc, present in two formats, allow edits, transpose, autoscroll, metronome, play back the original ( or tab I think), multiple set lists, save songs ion cloud, share with band.... one of the best apps I have seen in a long time, does what I need as a musician. I am suffering from decreasing eyesight with age, once I found this app I bought a hi res Samsung 10" tablet, problem solved. As I stated above I have no connections with the developers, is just a great tool for silly money. Mic stand mount - that is another issue - they seem v expensive for what you get. I bought one and am feeling constant worry about tablet safety. I want a solid holder that fits a cymbal stand.

Go a little further £450 and you are into Warwick (German) territory. I am very pleased with mine. At the other end of the scale my Warwick Rockbass corvette 5 string fretless was only £150 s/h. At that money you get an ebony fingerboard and superb build quality.

My first ever set on G&L SB1 now 8 years old, still going strong. Although they are a little pricey (new), the lifetime makes them excellent value. You also get the bonus buy(s) on BC when for some reason they are not to someone else's taste. Even better when pre 'run in' by previous owner. These are the strings I had been looking for in the previous 30 years bass playing until I discovered them.

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1402434888' post='2473566'] Mods! Mods! Arrest that man! [/quote] Too late, the deed is done - and by covert stealth has been done with every bass I have owned and played in 40+ years. The secret is..... rotate all controls fully to ON

Be bold, just disconnect it. I am building (overstating here) a bitsa Peavey USA bass. I intend to have no volume and no tone control. Will have 3 way switch and blend pot. I just seem to use all my basses full vol and tone. Be bold Early Ibanez Blazer - great bass every bit the match for USA stuff at the time (I am of that age).

You may never get 'perfect' intonation. You should get reasonable with the string gauges the bass is specified with. If you have a string that is way out I would suspect a faulty string. I have spent ages trying to sort bad intonation until I found it was a duff string. Rare but it does happen. Is this bass available, I have could add to my collection then again other half will divorce.

Sounds like a great song title - when a tone pot dies... Anywhere and all points in between (intentional pun). Several failure modes possible: full rotation - the metal 'stop' had sheared off: Metal rotary contact has broken - fatigue fracture: Tracks have lifted / worn through - low probability. Following on from JapanAxe's lead, we will have to define the various failure modes to state the possible subsequent state of the pot at failure. However with a pot being £0.50 to £4.50 why are we worrying. Replace and move on (unless it is something exotic with corresponding price).

Owned a 371 cab in the 1970s early 80s (the one with the 18" speaker). This bring back great memories - hope it works out well.

One of mine has suffered the same fate as yours. As long as I change strings one at a time it stays put so I have not bothered to replace it. You may be lucky as well.

Very nice colour. Now about that volume knob.... I am also in the tone control and volume to full on, so why bother camp. The sleek look will have no controls at all

Desolder one leg of the capacitor. See how the bass sounds without capacitor. (This is taking Beer of the Bass advice a step further). If it sounds ok then capacitor is wrong value. If bad sound then problem elsewhere. Where are you based - you might find someone on BC who will take a look / get soldering iron out as a favour. Do you still have earth to bridge wire? essential unless running pickups such as EMGs.

So disappointed, thought it would be a video or an account of a bass playing disaster, ah well.....................

D'addario Chromes - the black nylon tapewound ones, (surely some contradiction there) were ok on my fretless Warwick. I just applied the usual cure - TI flats, plenty of growl when needed.