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[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1415187288' post='2597538'] Since Warwick tailpieces can be a tight fit for some brands of string, I would have thought any Warwick string should fit that. [/quote] A good suggestion above. I have had a look on the well known internet auction site - individual bridge pieces are available, unfortunately not in the same pattern as yours. I would contact the bass manufacturer and explain the issue, see if they will give you a bridge piece which you can then have a go at drilling out. Much safer off the bass, no 'oh dear' moments. In the long term you want to be able to use strings of your choice, not be limited by bridge.

Phil Lynott - Vagabonds of the Western World LP/CD. Even when I had the Rickenbacker I could not get that tone. TI flats are my friends these days (did they exists in the late 70s / early 80s?)

What is the bass bridge type? Picture might help with alternate non-drilling solution.

[quote name='Bass_Guardian' timestamp='1415137742' post='2597199'] Ooft sounds a bit drastic! Did you use a regular drill bit? [/quote] Yes, just went up in 0.5 mm increments until the strings fitted. Is very easy if your bridge is Fender style BBOT bridge. If it was a really valuable vintage instrument I would not do this. I would get a replacement bridge and modify the replacement this way - keep the original bridge unmolested.

Have had this same problem on two basses (5 string & 4 string). In both cases I sorted the problem by drilling the string hole wider until string fitted.

[quote name='blue' timestamp='1415085387' post='2596418'] At my age, I no longer arrive at gigs with goals or expectations, That gets too involved. Now it's all about having fun. If it's not fun why do it. Blue [/quote] I think I am at the same age as you. With bar / pub gigs - I am reminded of Father Jack in Father Ted: Drink! Feck! that and playing music, what more is needed

Find out the value of the pot, either from circuit diags or by disconnecting one terminal and measuring resistance with multimeter. At this point I would buy a new pot and replace the existing one - Alpha pots are good value, should only be few £. Either the problem goes away or you now know it is elsewhere. Life is great - you fix a problem and then it comes back to bite you later

Welcome to the world of warm beer after a long transatlantic trip

Wish I had looked at BC this afternoon, where was I today , Swansea !

[b] [color=#222222] [/color][color=#222222]MindGoneBlank, pictures please or it has not happened [/color][/b]

It's only money. If you: do not like/feel the need/get told off by sound engineer etc you can always move it on. With advancing years I am erring towards smaller kit these days. My Acoustic 301 & Hiwatt custom 200 / Marshall VBA & 2 x 15 days are over. Many years ago I used Marshall valve head with Marshall 4x15 but that is a best forgotten excess of youth. Enjoy big kit while you can, smaller kit may come

Looking good so far, there are stingray 2 band clone pre-amps available on a well known internet auction site. I have no connection in anyway, I have just been looking for a pre-amp for my weedy (but great tone) Gibson SG bass. Artec seem to be excellent value on Thomann site.

I guess no-one ever warned about the dangers of playing the 'brown note'

I have pyramid golds on my short scale bass - seem very good. Much as I like TI flats (on every other long scale bass I have) they just did not have sufficient tension for my taste.

Whilst playing guitar in pit band, a bass player I encountered used a BLX combo. I was quite impressed with volume and tone at the time. Each to their own I guess.

One of the reasons for gigging with cheap commodity kit - if it goes it is not a major deal to replace.

On the plus side, because they are 'small' cavities, routing for a larger soapbar, MM, or whatever is viable.

I would name them Verity, However as mentioned earlier your best bet is measure the cavities and then see what pickups are available in that size.

BB300 - 1980s I guess. P type single pickup, it is comparable with the 1977 P I owned. Way cheaper than that bass is now. Big body, big neck

As another alternative, build to order. Since it is all CNC manufactured I should, be able to order for example: a PJ jazz body, wood choice of own, maple neck, bound, dot markers, in my colour choice. There should be a reasonable number of options. This should be at USA prices, not custom. Car manufacturers, PC assemblers can do it. Just need to get consistent outstanding quality. There should not be 'good' ones and 'so so' ones.

As a guitar playing friend says to me, his guitar has notes on it that mine does not. Staggeringly talented player with a quite unique sense of timing.

The Peavey combos above seem outstanding value? Has anyone used one, own one, any comments?

They are all different. I keep re-discovering mine. Also one super duper bass, gets stolen, damaged whatever - is gone. I will not take some basses out now since they have become irreplaceable. Not vast value, just difficult to find another. Cheapy bass £150 has 90% + of the tone, does not matter if goes awol, damaged at gig.

Peavey bass combo - the choice version is the 300 Watter. I sold mine for £140, but seeing as how a mate bought one for £90 a few months ago I may have been lucky. Plus sides - indestructible, reasonable tone, highly repairable. Downsides - weight, weight, weight and image (in some people's view). At about 25 years old my BW seaker gave up - the glue holding cone to frame packed up. If it was me, I would get a Hartke LH500 / MB 200 / Mark Bass Black line 250 (choices based on s/h price and perceived quality). when funds permit get a suitable cab later (or build one).