3below

[quote name='chrismuzz' timestamp='1422386928' post='2672066'] I buy so much gear my missus forgets what I've bought and how much it cost,.................. [/quote] Same strategy used here, I believe it is called exposure therapy What is this 'one in, one out' phrase about, I have heard it used by some other bass players.

Chris OTOH I have Pyramid Golds on my SG bass. Have had them on and off a fair few times with string experiments, making bridge bar and playing with setup. They have taken this treatment well and no issues yet. Sometimes they appear at very good prices on the well known internet auction site. I will second the TI flats, I use the 'through bridge plate' stringing on my Kramer DMZ, no problems in 3 years yet.

Excellent, good communication and a great bass purchased from Neil, many thanks Francis

I need an extra left hand the technique required must be awesome.

Have a long look at the money 'regular' Warwicks are fetching (and most other mainstream basses) at the moment. At that money I would want pretty top condition. Great basses and staggering value for money at the moment.

[quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1421775752' post='2664888'] That's about as severe a twist as I've seen. The only reliable way to have that straightened will be to split the fretboard from the neck, level the neck then reapply the fretboard (or more likely, a new one). Downsides is the neck will probably be thinner or need a more slab-like fretboard. It's not a job for an amateur though, this is heavy duty luthier work. [/quote] It is saying give me a nice slab of ebony fretless. My wallet is saying this will not be cost effective

Plenty of info about neck correction methods. Whether it is worth the effort is another issue, you may need to construct heater / steam boxes, clamps etc, If that is your bent, could be an interesting project (pun intended).

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1421442350' post='2661413'] ......welcome to the hissy single coil pickup club, putting both pickups on full normally stops it, or buy a Stingray with a humbucker [/quote] All good advice about the ground wire. You can of course keep the bass and get some humbucking or noiseless J bass pickups. I am more than happy with the DiMarzios on my Warwick. There is plenty of choice in the humbucking and/or noiseless varieties. EMGs come up on BC frequently at very good prices. I have a set of these in my 'el cheapo' how low rent can you go bass.

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1421241377' post='2658801'] I had a set in a strat a few years ago. Stunning pickups. They should be far better known! [/quote] Ditto, and I still have the guitar.

Should not be too hard (or expensive) to get a metalwork shop to manufacture a custom BBOT. The Jazz pickup slot could be laser cut. Could be in stainless steel (polished?), Brass or plain steel and then chromed. Just one example http://www.essexlaser.co.uk/ I have no connection with them, never used, just looked on Google.

I am in the lucky position of having both. Warwick build is outstanding, Gibson is very good. They are very different basses, I would not hesitate on either and at the moment some spectacular bargains are around in the current financial climate.

A most worrying condition, sudden DB purchases, especially at this hour in the day.

A closer examination of the Babicz site for Gibson 3 point bridge looks promising on the ball to bridge length

It appears that the new bridge will give 'better' height and lateral location adjustment. Now remind me what the main issue with the traditional 3 and 2 point bridge is, namely the anchor to saddle distance is too short on the E string. Some of us have used / made a bass bar (or used old saddle or nut) as a spacer to overcome this issue. Next look closely at the E string anchor to saddle distance on the Gibson image. Notice where the string winding sits. John Birch had an elegant solution to this one, a mix of the 2 point and fender BBOT. The one on my SG bass was stainless steel, nicely made.

Focusrite plays well with Linux for those of inclined that way I am also well impressed with the Hi Z direct in recording quality, but then again I am only just starting this game.

Strings received today, many thanks. Excellent communication.

In SG bass, always wanted one, with pyramid golds it nails the Jack Bruce / Andy Fraser / Peter Cruickshank sound. Modern strings play well with short scale. Realised short scale is easier with small hands. Peavey Millenium now fitted with EMGs - £100 all in. How cheap can you go? out - nothing yet...

Explaining Class compatible is quite a vast task - [url="http://www.usb.org/developers/defined_class"]http://www.usb.org/developers/defined_class [/url] , [url="http://www.usb.org/developers/compliance/"]http://www.usb.org/developers/compliance/[/url] Expanding on Chriswareham's reply earlier, 'class compatible' means that the manufacturer should have designed and implemented the USB interface in accordance to the standards / specifications that have been defined and published. It should also mean that the USB interface performs to the specification / standards. The use of open standards should make software and driver implementation (if needed) much simpler. Class compliant devices should just 'plug and play'. Notice I use should, not everyone plays fully by the rules I would suggest looking at devices that are USB 2 (or even 3) class compliant. In my recent pre-purchase internet searching I found that most major manufacturers seem to state this in their specifications