3below

Plenty of info about neck correction methods. Whether it is worth the effort is another issue, you may need to construct heater / steam boxes, clamps etc, If that is your bent, could be an interesting project (pun intended).

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1421442350' post='2661413'] ......welcome to the hissy single coil pickup club, putting both pickups on full normally stops it, or buy a Stingray with a humbucker [/quote] All good advice about the ground wire. You can of course keep the bass and get some humbucking or noiseless J bass pickups. I am more than happy with the DiMarzios on my Warwick. There is plenty of choice in the humbucking and/or noiseless varieties. EMGs come up on BC frequently at very good prices. I have a set of these in my 'el cheapo' how low rent can you go bass.

[quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1421241377' post='2658801'] I had a set in a strat a few years ago. Stunning pickups. They should be far better known! [/quote] Ditto, and I still have the guitar.

Should not be too hard (or expensive) to get a metalwork shop to manufacture a custom BBOT. The Jazz pickup slot could be laser cut. Could be in stainless steel (polished?), Brass or plain steel and then chromed. Just one example http://www.essexlaser.co.uk/ I have no connection with them, never used, just looked on Google.

I am in the lucky position of having both. Warwick build is outstanding, Gibson is very good. They are very different basses, I would not hesitate on either and at the moment some spectacular bargains are around in the current financial climate.

A most worrying condition, sudden DB purchases, especially at this hour in the day.

A closer examination of the Babicz site for Gibson 3 point bridge looks promising on the ball to bridge length

It appears that the new bridge will give 'better' height and lateral location adjustment. Now remind me what the main issue with the traditional 3 and 2 point bridge is, namely the anchor to saddle distance is too short on the E string. Some of us have used / made a bass bar (or used old saddle or nut) as a spacer to overcome this issue. Next look closely at the E string anchor to saddle distance on the Gibson image. Notice where the string winding sits. John Birch had an elegant solution to this one, a mix of the 2 point and fender BBOT. The one on my SG bass was stainless steel, nicely made.

Focusrite plays well with Linux for those of inclined that way I am also well impressed with the Hi Z direct in recording quality, but then again I am only just starting this game.

Strings received today, many thanks. Excellent communication.

In SG bass, always wanted one, with pyramid golds it nails the Jack Bruce / Andy Fraser / Peter Cruickshank sound. Modern strings play well with short scale. Realised short scale is easier with small hands. Peavey Millenium now fitted with EMGs - £100 all in. How cheap can you go? out - nothing yet...

Explaining Class compatible is quite a vast task - [url="http://www.usb.org/developers/defined_class"]http://www.usb.org/developers/defined_class [/url] , [url="http://www.usb.org/developers/compliance/"]http://www.usb.org/developers/compliance/[/url] Expanding on Chriswareham's reply earlier, 'class compatible' means that the manufacturer should have designed and implemented the USB interface in accordance to the standards / specifications that have been defined and published. It should also mean that the USB interface performs to the specification / standards. The use of open standards should make software and driver implementation (if needed) much simpler. Class compliant devices should just 'plug and play'. Notice I use should, not everyone plays fully by the rules I would suggest looking at devices that are USB 2 (or even 3) class compliant. In my recent pre-purchase internet searching I found that most major manufacturers seem to state this in their specifications

This will be fixable without the need to purchase a new pre-amp. A sound clip of the noise would be useful. Without any test equipment / measurements etc my brute force method would be (i) replace any electrolytic capacitors (ii) check for dry joints and re-solder. A good electronics engineer will sort this quickly, it is a straightforward simple circuit, especially with Frank's link to the circuit.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1419711073' post='2642168'] It is - when I started playing bass, if you didn't have a Fender or Gibson or R*ck*nb*ck*r, then you had something which was barely playable at best and a pile of junk at worst, but F, G and R basses were prohibitively expensive at the time. Now you can buy something which looks, plays and sounds totally the business for a very reasonable price - so the decal thing has become moot. Particularly as there are now many manufacturers making basses that are at least as good as and in many cases a lot better than, F, G and R. [/quote] So well put, my experience exactly from bass playing circa 1974 onwards, especially having owned them all, FGR at various times. Fond memories (LOL) of Kay (Woolworths?) Columbus, Jedson, Avon basses The only bit of kit I have left from that era is a Shure Unidyne B mic. The plus of that era was Marshall, Hiwatt, VOX etc amps at silly prices compared to today.

Quality of kit these days is so good for the money. Does the label matter? My 1980s USA bass is very nice to play. So is the Chinese mass produced bass with EMGs fiited (£100 all in). Is there much difference - not really.

Use the well known BC for flatwounds. Pre owned and run in, at a fraction of the new price. Cheap, me, never

CC need to look through BC. Used SG basses are outstanding value at the moment.

[quote name='gazgoldstar' timestamp='1419363376' post='2639222'] ..... maybe a wire is grounding against another or something along those lines. [/quote] Get the magnifying glass out, have a good look for 'wire whiskers', bits of stray metal or wires touching somewhere on the circuit(s). Good look.

Auction site - collectible, vintage, rare, unique, worn and played in, relic, mojo etc. Or fit strange pickups and adjust action with suitable description about height and gnat's appendage. Must be £500