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[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1418754815' post='2633013'] As tough as it is... all round, I think you should try and be cordial and sensible about it so your stance about paying his 'dues' IF he gives you more work is a way of mending fences...a bit... but if he is going to bin you, which he may well do AFTER the pay-off, I'd think he can wait for his money, with all that goes with a complex overseas haggle. And.... lesson learned and the maxim should now be..as the poster above said, if the answer has to be now, the answer is No. He then would have had a chance to ask elsewhere and maybe would still have had to come back to you as you'd still be a 'possible' to him and you would have brought yourself 24 hrs or so. I say this because the reason he was so tough on his stance is because he was under so much pressure as well.... and he'd had no luck getting a yes elsewhere....??? [/quote] Some very good advice here, I would also suggest getting some legal advice - you never know what wriggle room you might have.

[quote name='timmo' timestamp='1418489621' post='2630648'] If you have problems with wireless, the obvious solution is to hook it all together with a blue cable. It will solve all the problems of dropping out, and still have the benefits of being wireless [/quote] Is this the special blue 'metal free' type of wireless cable?

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1418468001' post='2630404'] That is right Diablo, I find that its best to play over the pickup when using a wireless setup as again that is going to get the signal to the amp quicker too, if you are playing something really fast on a regular basis I would suggest a really low action too, I think I read that for every 1mm of action off the 12th fret creates a 250ms delay, fretless basses are unaffected something to do with ebony wood absorbing the mhz but thats too technical for me [/quote] The air delay and other frequency changes due to atmospheric conditions can be overcome through common everyday engineering. The guitar or bass should be played in a suitable vessel that is at very low atmospheric pressure or ideally a vacuum e.g. diving decompression chamber. In the interests of safety a suitable air supply should be provided for the instrument player. Concerns have been expressed by several authors that these conditions lead to significant fast signals. These 'fast' signals are known to cause a timing advance rather than delay, leading to musical dissonance. Further research should be devoted to determining the optimum atmospheric conditions for string to pickup transmission.

[quote name='Diablo' timestamp='1418245100' post='2628480'] By far the best cables are striped. The two different bass-carrying frequencies of the pigments in the stripes act in unison and allow the electromagnetic waves to amplify themselves bringing clearer tone and lower bass frequency carrying capacity. I have found that cables marked with manufacturers names interfere with this electromagnetic transformation capacity and cause depleted musical performance. If only someone would invent a rainbow coloured cable (axial stripes - not radial, they stop the karma, man) then we can all bass-happy. [/quote] I think you are an astro-turfer for Multicolour cables inc., a subdivision of Wildbeast cables if you get my drift. The thread has made me smile after a long tiring day at the chalk face (which I thought I had escaped). From a Physics perspective the colour of the cables is highly likely to affect the frequency response. The coaxial cable - insulator combination forms a capacitor (classic first year physics degree exam question). The permittivity of tjhe insulator will be affected by the presence of colouring chemicals within it. This will affect the capacitance and hence frequency response. probably, to paraphrase a well known to this province guitar restorer - by a gnats whisker.

16 Ohms cab will help reduce power delivered by head, thus lessening chances of destruction. Take a look at most solid state specifications - max power usually at 4 or 2 ohms, significantly less power at 16 ohms. Speakers at 200W thermal power rating is not a lot in this day and age in comparison to the potential output of your head at 16 ohns. If it starts 'farting' or making other bad noises adjust the loud knob downwards.

Am now just wondering how professional symphony orchestra musicians are, they all seem to use music stands

TI flats, my first ever set now 8 years on G&L bass. Can be very aggressive, sometimes I think ' must get some flatwounds'. Have only had one bass these did not suit - Gibson SG 30", pyramid golds solved that one.

I also had wrist problems,to the point that I could not play for more than 30 mins then wrist just swelled up - tendonitis and general inflammation. This was after some 20 years playing frequently. I sort of gave up for 10 years then restarted. No problems now and still using same bass now and then. No idea what caused and why it went away. Short scale can really help, recent purchase of Gibson SG on here has shown me that (small hands as well.) Also the angle the Gibson body (and neck) tilt away results in significantly lbetter wrist angle. The ease of playing that bass is really noticeable. Neck profile can also make a vast difference - despite small hands I find chunky deep profile necks much easier than thin profile. Try some basses to see if you find a more comfortable one.

[quote name='Horizontalste' timestamp='1417612818' post='2622209'] It's only right that MM owners defend their bass's. After all it is the product that rectified Leo's mistakes when he made the Precision :-) (runs for cover) [/quote] Surely that product is the G&L SB1 (v2).... Also runs for cover must now return back to the G&L forum after this momentary fanbois unfaithfulness

[quote name='Sean' timestamp='1417372055' post='2619670'] Can you put Tuffcab on over another layer? Won't it be too thick? [/quote] Good question. On my homebuilt BFM I used several layers which seemed to build up and work well (black). Guess it depends how many layers of green are needed to hide the black. Somewhere on BC I recall mention of Alex refurbishing a cab. Give him a call, see what he thinks. I wonder whether the green (and any ligh colour) would show scuffs and marks quickly but that is just conjecture, no evidence either way.

[quote name='Sean' timestamp='1416133850' post='2607109'] It's going to be impossible to put tolex over the tuffcab paint so I'll probably try a few cans of Canbrush Surf Green at some point. [/quote] Tuffcab is available in RAL colours AFAIK to order. Contact Aldcroft and see what they have to say, - https://www.facebook.com/aldcroftadhesives Great looking amp, and whilst listening to the Who gets me thinking I must get the Sound City fired up.

Recent middle size concert in Cardiff (3-5000 I guess). All I can say is that if I was the artist concerned I would have been mighty disappointed with the sound. Immense (too much) bass and kick drum, sufficient to make balcony shake, just an indistinct thump. - vocals harsh when singer at full tilt. All just too loud. Did not do the artist justice. Has made me think though - no need for anything more than a cheap bass because any subtlety will be lost if this is the foh mix that is in vogue. Band played well, plenty of energy, very tight, would have been outstanding gig with good mix. The support act - vocals & two guitars had their sound massacred. How hard is it to mix two vocals, one electric guitar and one acoustic?

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1417010799' post='2616039'] 4. If by ear how do you go about? [b]Fretless bass using harmonics. Fretted bass using the fretted notes. Guitar fretted notes and then playing the chords I'll be using in that particular song to fine tune. Fretted instruments are always a compromise with regards to tuning so the tuning always needs to be adjusted to suit the chords you'll be using.[/b] [/quote] Excellent answer about the 6 string thing... I It is exactly what I do, plus the harmonics, but forgot to say in my email reply. Like you I have been playing beyond 40 years. One day I will be a rock star yet. I am still waiting / trying. My excuse is I started young.

A bass kit bash.... I dread to think how much small (and not so small) stuff I have gained over the years.

Agree with comments above, highly unlikely to have done any serious damage.

Carefully with a template and template router bit(s) with top guide bearing (1/2 and 3/.8"). You will also need a 1/8" straight fluted bit. Once you have these practice on scrap, many times. Fortsner drill bits to hog out the rough cavity make life easier - Lidl had these at knock down price recently. Good luck and watch those fingers, you need them for bass playing. The easy answer might be find a luthier who will do it for you, should not be expensive

How low do you want the action on your bass? I have only ever had one guitar/bass set up professionally in 40+ years. Why, because I can DIY to a standard that I am happy with except in serious cases. This was the one guitar that had a slight neck twist and I could just not get right. Having had it done I am very happy with the result. Have you tried adjusting yourself? if you are willing to pay for a setup you have nothing to lose by having a go yourself first. Harmonics - new strings and get the bridge intonation correct, your tuner is your friend. Good luck.

Check the wiring diagram that Warwick have online. I had one of these (4 stringer) and the output was abysmal. Using the wiring diagram I found and sorted a wiring fault. Output was good after that. If you want a quiet bass try my Gibson SG bass. Great sound just very limp in the output department.

Purchased set of strings from Clarky. Excellent communication and the strings are excellent. Arrived faster than a fast thing. Many thanks.