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[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1417010799' post='2616039'] 4. If by ear how do you go about? [b]Fretless bass using harmonics. Fretted bass using the fretted notes. Guitar fretted notes and then playing the chords I'll be using in that particular song to fine tune. Fretted instruments are always a compromise with regards to tuning so the tuning always needs to be adjusted to suit the chords you'll be using.[/b] [/quote] Excellent answer about the 6 string thing... I It is exactly what I do, plus the harmonics, but forgot to say in my email reply. Like you I have been playing beyond 40 years. One day I will be a rock star yet. I am still waiting / trying. My excuse is I started young.

A bass kit bash.... I dread to think how much small (and not so small) stuff I have gained over the years.

Agree with comments above, highly unlikely to have done any serious damage.

Carefully with a template and template router bit(s) with top guide bearing (1/2 and 3/.8"). You will also need a 1/8" straight fluted bit. Once you have these practice on scrap, many times. Fortsner drill bits to hog out the rough cavity make life easier - Lidl had these at knock down price recently. Good luck and watch those fingers, you need them for bass playing. The easy answer might be find a luthier who will do it for you, should not be expensive

How low do you want the action on your bass? I have only ever had one guitar/bass set up professionally in 40+ years. Why, because I can DIY to a standard that I am happy with except in serious cases. This was the one guitar that had a slight neck twist and I could just not get right. Having had it done I am very happy with the result. Have you tried adjusting yourself? if you are willing to pay for a setup you have nothing to lose by having a go yourself first. Harmonics - new strings and get the bridge intonation correct, your tuner is your friend. Good luck.

Check the wiring diagram that Warwick have online. I had one of these (4 stringer) and the output was abysmal. Using the wiring diagram I found and sorted a wiring fault. Output was good after that. If you want a quiet bass try my Gibson SG bass. Great sound just very limp in the output department.

Purchased set of strings from Clarky. Excellent communication and the strings are excellent. Arrived faster than a fast thing. Many thanks.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1415187288' post='2597538'] Since Warwick tailpieces can be a tight fit for some brands of string, I would have thought any Warwick string should fit that. [/quote] A good suggestion above. I have had a look on the well known internet auction site - individual bridge pieces are available, unfortunately not in the same pattern as yours. I would contact the bass manufacturer and explain the issue, see if they will give you a bridge piece which you can then have a go at drilling out. Much safer off the bass, no 'oh dear' moments. In the long term you want to be able to use strings of your choice, not be limited by bridge.

Phil Lynott - Vagabonds of the Western World LP/CD. Even when I had the Rickenbacker I could not get that tone. TI flats are my friends these days (did they exists in the late 70s / early 80s?)

What is the bass bridge type? Picture might help with alternate non-drilling solution.

[quote name='Bass_Guardian' timestamp='1415137742' post='2597199'] Ooft sounds a bit drastic! Did you use a regular drill bit? [/quote] Yes, just went up in 0.5 mm increments until the strings fitted. Is very easy if your bridge is Fender style BBOT bridge. If it was a really valuable vintage instrument I would not do this. I would get a replacement bridge and modify the replacement this way - keep the original bridge unmolested.

Have had this same problem on two basses (5 string & 4 string). In both cases I sorted the problem by drilling the string hole wider until string fitted.

[quote name='blue' timestamp='1415085387' post='2596418'] At my age, I no longer arrive at gigs with goals or expectations, That gets too involved. Now it's all about having fun. If it's not fun why do it. Blue [/quote] I think I am at the same age as you. With bar / pub gigs - I am reminded of Father Jack in Father Ted: Drink! Feck! that and playing music, what more is needed

Find out the value of the pot, either from circuit diags or by disconnecting one terminal and measuring resistance with multimeter. At this point I would buy a new pot and replace the existing one - Alpha pots are good value, should only be few £. Either the problem goes away or you now know it is elsewhere. Life is great - you fix a problem and then it comes back to bite you later

Welcome to the world of warm beer after a long transatlantic trip

Wish I had looked at BC this afternoon, where was I today , Swansea !

[b] [color=#222222] [/color][color=#222222]MindGoneBlank, pictures please or it has not happened [/color][/b]

It's only money. If you: do not like/feel the need/get told off by sound engineer etc you can always move it on. With advancing years I am erring towards smaller kit these days. My Acoustic 301 & Hiwatt custom 200 / Marshall VBA & 2 x 15 days are over. Many years ago I used Marshall valve head with Marshall 4x15 but that is a best forgotten excess of youth. Enjoy big kit while you can, smaller kit may come

Looking good so far, there are stingray 2 band clone pre-amps available on a well known internet auction site. I have no connection in anyway, I have just been looking for a pre-amp for my weedy (but great tone) Gibson SG bass. Artec seem to be excellent value on Thomann site.

I guess no-one ever warned about the dangers of playing the 'brown note'

I have pyramid golds on my short scale bass - seem very good. Much as I like TI flats (on every other long scale bass I have) they just did not have sufficient tension for my taste.