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BassBunny

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by BassBunny

  1. Can't believe this is still here. At £90 for the Glock pre-amp, the bass is only around £200 which is Squier territory. These really are unbelievable basses for the money. Japanese workmanship, Gotoh hardware and probably one of the nicest necks available. These were north of £500 when they were first produced.
  2. You wouldn't hate this 5 string neck.
  3. Revolut is really good. I use it to send money to my son in Prague. You see real time rates before sending.
  4. Hi Les, Had to read this a couple of times and head for the Lexicon website to try and figure what you are looking to do and I am not sure it would be possible to do what you want. It seems that the the Dual effects are switched on or bypassed using a non-latching footswitch that connects Sleeve to Ring for Effect 1 and Sleeve to Tip for Bypass 2. What you are proposing would have Tip and Ring permanently connected together and only Lexicon can advise what effect that would have on the unit. It could be possible to modify the Boss footswitch by changing the jack socket to a TRS one and the switch to a Double Pole Non Latching, (if 1 exists). Only other alternative is a 2-button footswitch as Lexicon suggest. On another note, the Peaky Blinders gig looked awesome. So is Shelby Brothers Ltd to continue?
  5. If you have decided to do it why not just go totally flat? I've got 2 ACG's with flat fingerboards and love them. Wouldn't go back to a radius if I was speccing a bass build.
  6. I've got the exact Glockenklang pre-amp in one of my basses and from memory with all the Eq set flat, there is no amplification so can't see why it would be a problem. Unfortunately it is with a Luthier at the moment so can't check but pretty sure that is the case. A lot of of active pre-amps are built this way but if you think it may be an issue consider a John East pre-amp as they have "trim" pots for each pick up. As for the arrangement of the controls it would have to be Option 1 for me. Vol/Balance nearest the strings and the 3 eq controls together below. I would also use smaller knobs for the eq controls.
  7. As long as you have a good sharp knife, (a craft knife or scalpel is best), it's easy. I've done a few. Carbon Black being the favourite. If you use Car Wrap, you would be able to fold it over the edges with the help of a hairdryer. I tried spraying and even though I took great care in prepping it was still easy to scratch the finish and a scratch with white underneath would really show up. You wouldn't have that problem with vinyl.
  8. Although you have the rig wired Amp - Cab - Cab that is still a parallel arrangement. It makes no difference if you wired both back to the amp and used the speakon and jack, the result is exactly the same and a potentially damaging load on the amp. I would just use the 4 Ohm cab until yo decide a way forward. If you want to run 2 2 x 10's, you need to sell the 4 Ohm and replace it with another 8 Ohm. A friend of mine tried a couple of EA cabs on his Mark Bass amp not knowing they were actually 6 Ohm impedance and thus 3 Ohms when in parallel. It was a costly mistake.
  9. A 4 ohm and an 8 ohm cab together in parallel will produce 2.67 ohms resistance. The LM3 has a minimum output impedance of 4 ohms, so surprised the protection cicuitry hasn't kicked in. The other thing is that as you are saying it "works", the 4ohm cab will have twice the output of the 8 ohm cab.
  10. Don't hold your breath. I emailed him virtually as soon as the ad went up and no reply.
  11. If it is quiet with nothing plugged in then I would assume the Amp/Cab/Speaker cable are OK, although that said Speakons are considered the "norm" now.. Could it be the instrument lead? They can be notorious for introducing all sorts of noises when they start to fail.
  12. If comes to having to change a speaker(s), I agree but it sounds like it could just be a dry joint on the terminal block. A simple re-solder job.
  13. Here are all the wiring diagrams from the Bartolini web-site. Hopefully one of these. http://bartolini.net/docs/Electronics/EQs/TCT Family Instruction Color.pdf
  14. Is it definitely CTS? You need it confirming before looking for the correct solution. If it IS CTS, try vitamin B6.
  15. MTD without question. I've had one in the past and regret selling it. If the one F/S was a 34" it wouldn't be F/S.
  16. Luminlay on 2 ACG's and a third bass is with a local luthier being Luminlayed as we speak.
  17. Which is your stock answer when asked "How much do you charge?" Did you take over from Karlfer of this parish?
  18. I've had exactly the same problem with a tuner and I fixed it by just gluing it back in with an epoxy glue. If you use something like Araldite, ie a 2-pack adhesive, and just smear some on the part that has come away, (looks like a handy channel for guidance), slide back into the slot and then remove any residue. Leave sufficient time to harden and job done. Mine never parted company again.
  19. Well if you are looking to go light the Marshall isn't helping that much at 32Kg. Also it is a 4 Ohm Cab so mixing it with a 2 x10 would mean another 4 Ohm Cab and an amp head that would cope with a 2 Ohm load.
  20. @jrixn1Corrected my posting. Must remember NOT to use a smartphone for entering comments on BassChat as it never seems to come out as I intended.
  21. Have just done one. I used CTS 250k Linear Pot's as they give much more control over the Volume and Treble Cut. Standard Pots are 250K Log Pots and these always feel like they are more like On/Off switches. I also used a 0.1uf capacitor instead of the 0.047 as it gives the bass a nice "thump". Coupled to a switchcraft jack and job done.
  22. Hi Phil, I don't think anyone can give you an answer to what the problem is without checking it out. You will no doubt get a lot of "it could be's" but considering the re-issue of these amps are over £1K and I would imagine an original is easily that or more, I would want someone who knows what they are doing looking at it. Good Luck with finding someone to sort it.
  23. If it were me I'd get it to an amp tech who is good on valve amps. If it is indeed a 69, it is probably worth quite a bit and it isn't the sort of amp to be pocking about in without knowing what you are doing. There is sticky with a list of recommended amp techs from all over the country. As your profile doesn't say where you are based but , if it's Manchester area, Dave Lunt in Stockport is your man.
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