BassBunny

Excellent result and big up to EBS for the design.

It is indeed and soldered into the circuit board so it looks like a pig of a job to do if you want to have a crack yourself. Tubes are hard to get as well.

I have repainted the top of a Genz and a MarkBass amp, but in both cases the top was removable. I used a metal paint "rattle can" from Aldi. It was specifically for metal and it didn't need any prior stripping or priming. I just sanded with an orbital sander until flat and then a couple of coats of paint. They still look pristine.

Excellent. Looks the business.

Yep, shouldn't be too bad to remove and if you can't get a "push fit" replacement exactly the same size, there seems like plenty of room if you need to drill through the chassis and bolt/self tap a new one in.

Looks like a push fit into the chassis so you'll ned to remove it to get the size for a replacement.

That's a pretty standard IEC socket shouldn't be a problem getting a replacement.

It's normally an IEC socket/plug/lead which is pretty much the same as as a kettle. The only real solution to fixing it is to change it. They are pretty standard, some with a flip out fuse and some not. You may get lucky and find the wires inside the amp section are on spade connectors and will just plug on. Otherwise it's "get the soldering iron out" time. As a matter of interest, what Combo is it?

Yes it does. It's a continuous length of Grommet Strip, used to line holes in metalwork to protect wiring from chaffing like a Grommet. The beauty of it is you could do the whole grill in one piece and it would be virtually invisible. Here is a different one that should show the slit better. This one is also self adhesive so much easier to apply. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/door-seals-brush-strips/1706169/

This stuff would be perfect. Just big enough to cover the sharp edges without adding too much thickness. You can get it in Black as well. https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/dx1-5p-30m/grommet-strip-1-50mm-plain-30m/dp/CBBR6244?mckv=ssCDLzrs3_dc|pcrid|224645119674|kword||match||plid||slid||product|CBBR6244|pgrid|52698577371|ptaid|pla-417047597028|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING&gclid=Cj0KCQiA8f_eBRDcARIsAEKwRGfSwkDm_Ych1G-BgTVa35PUWoIuBQNYCwTEKXiLJaOWd5ofkL4jFlgaAqUnEALw_wcB

+2 for Steve Robinson and you are right, it is a real bunch of spaghetti in there.

Correct unless there is a voltage selector switch inside the amp. But if you have been in touch with EBS they would have told you that. It is a US spec 120v model so either a step-down transformer or replace the power section. It could just be a board swap but I bet it won't be cheap. I guess with the amount of amps around now with switch mode power supplies, it is easy to think that any amp will work anywhere as switch mode ones do.

Looks like we were typing at the same time. I would give John a call and have a chat. He is very helpful.

I think all John's pre-amps have buffered inputs and the fact that they are modular I'm wondering if you can use just the Vol/Blend module on its own as the OP doesn't want a completely active setup. The Noll MixPot is purely an active Blend control and does nothing else.

Think you have answered your own question. An active balance control is the answer. Quite a few pre-amp manufacturers make them and that is the only way to avoid the problem you have. I know Mike Walsh, Zoot Bass, and Maruszczyk have used the Noll one to great effect. It's called a MixPot. http://noll-electronic.de/bass-electronics/mixpot/ Wouldn't mind betting John East could sort one out for you.

Only ever use OBBM, of this parish, Cables, (http://bassic-bits.co.uk/) or Award Session. Learned a long time ago that cheap cables are a waste of money in the long run. Certain cables are way overpiced. So now only use the above mentioned as they are quality cables with quality components at a decent price.

Some couriers won't accept a guitar/bass just packaged in a hard case and bubble wrapped. Parcelforce being an exception as my Son had a guitar delivered to mine that was packaged this way. the guitar was a really snug fit in the case and it survived....... If I have any sent a bass via a courier it has been in a hard/soft case and then a cardboard box. As long as the instrument is nice and snug in the hard case, you shouldn't need any further packing, although I always add a bit of something, (screwed up bubblewrap or something similar). Most music shops will have a suitable cardboard box, if not a bike shop is a good alternative as the boxes most bikes come in are a suitable size. I always bubblewrap the case before going in the box and make sure any spaces are filled with anything suitable to fill the void(s). It is also a good idea to take pictures at every stage of the packaging process in case there is a problem at the other end.

That looks a cool build and a 5-er as well.😊

Love the Joni Mitchell version. Wasn't Jaco on bass for this with Pat Metheny on guitar?

You could say it's been done with the release of Beneath The Bassline, which is a brilliant film/documentary.

Looking at this wiring guide, which is possibly the one John is referring to: http://www.delano.de/downloads/installation guide_2018_1.pdf Front coil is White (Hot), Brown (Ground) Rear Coil is Green (Hot), Yellow (Ground). So Brown, Yellow and Bare wire replace Green White and Bare on the SD diagram. White replaces Black on the SD diagram Green replaces Red on the SD diagram. If you have a multimeter, it might be worth checking that White/Brown is 1 coil and Green/Yellow the other in case I've got it wrong.