BassBunny

The fan is slightly noisy, but fine in a gig situation. I always use a Tascam and headphones at home, so it doesn't bother me. The output level is interesting. When I first got it I was disappointed and compared to the MarkBass SA450 it was replacing, it seemed very under powered. I spoke to Dave Green at Ashdown, (who designed the amp), and he pointed out that the amp's output stage is different to most amps on the market. It has a linear volume control, so to get maximum output, you turn it to max. Most amps, MarkBass included, have their maximum volume at 12 O'Clock and then have a limiter to prevent it going further. His advice was set the Volume to maximum and control it with the input. That made an enormous difference. I found the same issue with an EA iAmp that has the same kind of design.

Ashdown Retroglide 800. Some blurb from Ashdown: "Retroglide-800. Hand built in the UK Custom Shop the Retroglide is an 800 watt funk powerhouse." I've got one and have to agree.

Excellent stuff, been there, done that myself. Way out of my comfort zone but what an exhilarating experience it was. Made me glad that I'd spent so much time on arpeggios in the woodshed.

There was another thread about this exact same thing recently which may have some ideas. It went a bit off track but it's BassChat isn't it.😁

It might be that the "links" are there so you can use more than one sub/top per side. We had an HK sysyem that had 3 subs/mids and 1 top per side.

Whilst I am sure someone will either correct me, or better still a diagram, here's my 10 penneth. As PA Amps are usually 2 channel, ie: Left and Right You can use 2 amps that will run down to 4 Ohms on each channel and connect them up as below using a Crossover to split the frequencies. I Amp to power the tops, (Left and Right) and 1 amp to power the Subs, (Left and Right). It doesn't matter that the subs should be placed together, this is just to explain the linking up. So you would come out of your mixer, Left and Right, into an electronic crossover, and then Lows to one amp and Subs, highs to a second amp and Tops. Edit: Found a diagram I did a while ago which hopefully will explain. PA Basic Diagram.pdf

Gee Electronics in Warrington would be your best bet. Problem is just to test and establish where the problem is will cost £25 - 35. As it most likely will then need a new PCB, the cost, (if you can get one), will likely easily outweigh the value. Roland Lumby is another possibility. Have you checked the Amp Techs thread.

Axesrus.co.uk are a good place to start.

As it's an active bass with a pre-amp installed, you will need to find the values used. This information is usually stamped on the back of the pots so a delve into the control cavity is required. When you know the values make sure you get some quality new pots and CTS are the benchmark here.

I reckon that is an excellent idea. Quite rightly a lot of us don't trust couriers and this is a cracking solution

I think you will find the damaged screw extractor sets require the head of the screw to bite into. I don't think they would work on a snapped screw.

Wondered how long it would be before the "B" word was mentioned.😁

Just sneaked in and got mine yesterday. It definitely says the offer is open until 31st Jan so one would hope that would include today. I only hung on as long as I did in the hope that the artist roster would get filled in. Sadly not.

Still nothing for Sunday so looks like Saturday only for me.

That's the one. Knew it was one of the German retailers.