stevie

Fixed! Thanks tauzero. 🙂

If there are any other queries about the parts list, please post them. I've included supplier information whenever possible because some of these bits are not easy to source, but if you know of a better/cheaper supplier, do let us know.

Thanks for the corrections, chaps - much appreciated. I've posted an updated parts list in response to your comments and to include an additional few items. Next week, I'll post the final drawings and cutting list (thanks RichardH) with the crossover circuit and layout for the Faital PR320/Celestion CDX-1425 system. Anyone wishing to cut their own wood and build their own crossover will then have all the information they need. All the quotes are now in for the CNC kit cab. I'll be choosing a supplier early next week and progressing the matter so that we can get moving on the kits again.

PVC pipe is not the easiest material to glue but silicon sealant does a reasonable job. Wood glue won't stick to PVC at all.

Standing waves certainly exist in loudspeaker cabs and most good designers spend time trying to minimise them. Some go to extreme lengths trying to try to get rid of them. They are particularly problematic in tall, hi-fi cabs, where standing waves occur at frequencies around 200 to 300Hz. There are a number of different ways that a designer can measure them. Dealing with them is more tricky. A typical bass cab isn't exactly small, and they tend to suffer from standing waves between 170 and 300Hz. These are critical frequencies for bass guitar and will colour the sound unless some steps are taken to keep them under control. I've found that felt is quite good at taming standing waves and flutter echos inside cabinets. It's also fairly cheap. Place more damping material at the end of the longest dimension of the cabinet because that's where the biggest problem is.

I thought it was great. Very professional but relaxed and informal. The teacher's personality came across well. He wasn't annoying (important!) and can clearly play a bit. Looking forward to your bass efforts. Well done!

Sorry, Stew, I should have been clearer. It's bitumen damping material used for sound deadening. Dynamat is a well-known brand. I happened to have some bitumen roof flashing in my garage and used that. It's not a critical component but the more fastidious amongst us will want to damp the thin plastic of the handle. By the way, the cab I now have is as dead as a doornail when you knuckle-rap it - a noticeable improvement on the previous one. The only difference between the two is that the braces are now inset into the panels whereas previously they just used butt joints. I've tuned the port and finished the crossover. I won't bore anyone with more frequency response curves - but draw a line with a ruler and that's what we've got. Off axis response is also exemplary.

That's a shame. It's such a great body of work. A pity it's not complete, but there's still plenty to be getting on with.

You're right, Ricky. I've just checked my hard disk and I don't have them. I'll check my laptop later today, but I think they might be lost for all time - unless someone else has saved them. The Major hasn't posted on here for years. I often wonder what happened to him. Retired maybe?

I've added a parts list to the very first post in this thread - and have taken the opportunity to delete the old drawings, which are now out of date. I'll post drawings of the latest version shortly.

This is a great way to get a great sound at minimum cost. This is going to sound fantastic! I'm intrigued to find out how you solve the port problem.

The cab is now connected up to my measurement system and I'll finalise the crossover at the weekend. The preliminary design I did last week is pretty close - so that shouldn't take too long at all. I'm also contacting CNC companies to see who can produce these kits for us at a reasonable cost. I'll report back when I have some news.

And this is how it's wired up. All the terminals are pre-fitted - you just need to push them on to the appropriate tags.

Here is the crossover with the cables connected. There is a terminal block on the crossover board with a label that shows exactly where each wire goes (it's a bit difficult to see from the photo, but trust me). Just insert the fork terminals into the appropriate connector on the terminal block and tighten the screws, as I've done here.

The final thing you need to do is to even out imperfections at the joints. I discovered a really useful, water-based wood filler from Everbuild that I used for this. It's not as tough as a two-part filler - so don't use it to fill chips in corners - but it's ideal for this kind of job. It dries in half an hour and sands really easily. Then hardens over time. Now you can paint the cab. I haven't shown the batten used for fixing the grille because I haven't got any at the moment. But it's not rocket science, and I will probably mention it when I get the grilles sorted out. I'm leaving my cab unpainted for the moment because I have to tune the port and tweak the crossover. But your next job when the paint has dried is to wire the drive units up. Ooooooh!