itu

As it is so old, I would check possible connections between the pre and power amp. This unit does not have an FX loop but there is a headphones connection. Check it out and at least clean it. Some deoxidizer may help.

This is the same as mine. Maybe "amazing" is a bit of an overstatement but a well working unit at a friendly price. Battery (a very common single AA) lifetime is very good.

I bought an AKG second-hand. It is small (PSU, receiver, and transmitter), very easy to setup (a bit like turn both units on) and for the price (around £40) it is just fine. Sometimes it loses some parts of the sound (you can hear it like breathing), but if you have use it live or in band context, you probably can not hear it. And no hassles with any papers, it's 2.4 GHz.

Reminds me to be where I should be: in well played basics. (No, I am not flashy at all, although sometimes try to be. With modest success.) @Bilbo: Thank you for your legible scores.

Thank you @ped. @Woodinblack: I am sorry if the meaning of my comment was buried under my bad word choices, my mother tongue is not English and that may have something to do with it. Right, the question underneath was not about the scale length per se. Your original question was actually excellent and shows that your understanding has risen far above some others (because there are people that think Leo is god and anything else is heretic). I have heard that there are people - and some musicians, too - that have issues thinking outside the box. I have issues with my hands (used to do roadcycling and let the cold wind do evil tricks to my wrists) and I have tried several basses that might be comfortable to me (bass ergonomics is a bit underrated issue). I think that many players could play far better, if the bass was fitted to them just like a road bike. I have played Guild Ashbory to double bass and at the moment my main e. basses are 33.8", 35" and 36". That 35" has the worst feel to my left wrist but I am adjusting the height and it gets better. As you said neck profiles are one big concern that puzzle me, too. My 36" fretless has a profile that is a block. No U nor V but a square block (with rounded edges). It is very comfortable for my dear hands but only a local luthier could make that happen. It is close to a slide "g-word" neck profile but works like a dream. To me, that is. My wish is that every player could build (not literally) an instrument from a table of features that match the player. Scale length, body weight and shape, electronics, ergonomics and so on. I hate the recommendation: "Buy a P/J", because it is not the one that fits everyone. Someone may say that it is hard to make the choice if you do not know nothing about them. Well, it is the same with road bikes, too. But there are people that can tell you, what to look after and what seems to suit you. Then a CNC could do the best guess at that point. Luthier maybe later. Yes, there are issues like retail value, but my perspective starts from the player. Another string length is indeed a very interesting question. As we saw, there were just few real recommendations. I wish you could be the expert in the near future to tell me, what strings might be suitable for a small sized travel bass.

The original question is a bit like, how on earth a 34" scale would work, because double bass scale length is longer? As said before, the string choice plays an important role, if the construction is fine. I can not see any restrictions to build a 100" or 20" scale length, as long as you can buy strings to the instrument. Physics might help but also some testing is needed to find the sweet spot to the string thickness and tension. This probably has more to do with the playability and neck construction (to be able to carry the tension) than the actual sound.

Whichever is good. Probably your choice is something very flat, if the space is limited. It does not have to be a coaxial plug and a jack. Or if space is not an issue, something like this: https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-Buchanan/1977477-2?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuMS2dUaCDnDDzpnySEMiBK https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/8PCV-02-006?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsOthVV91%2FyqPwihGV2WcCd

Please provide models and maybe even pictures. You probably have done A/B-testing with a cable and wireless system? If you use something else than high quality silicone cables and Neutrik parts, and your soldering skills are not top notch, I can only steer you to that direction. Refreshing solder does not sound good at all.

I can not see any difference between this new bridge or the old ones. May relate to my vision. 1) if any string attachment part is free flowing/turning/whatever, it becomes a part of the string length - how is the tuning done and where is the first stable point, that marks the string length? 2) when the string leaves the attachment it also leaves the mass that acts in a similar way as a bending point, if not, go to #1 3) if there is some soft point (joint or similar), it affects the string ADSR because the overall string thickness (and mass and length) is affected - probably the effect can be seen as an attached damper 4) you may test the quality of an attachment with two vise benches and put the string to the benches in various angles - would love to hear the sound changes in relation to the angle

Height adjustment of the pickup may be in order.

According to the preamp picture there are three named contacts in the board: GND, SW, and OUT. They can be seen in the upper right side of the PCBA. If there are those coloured cables on the other side, the texts give you a very clear message. Now I do not get a clear idea of the cables, where they come from? There is a pretty poorly soldered red cable on the left side of the board - where does it come from? The battery? Is the black from the battery or from the stereo plug (ring or sleeve)? I am also a bit worried of the quality of the solderings. Without a DMM it is hard to say whether the cables have became so hot that they are in contact with each other under the shield. Should be checked. This is not rocket science or composing music. Find all cable ends and you are very close to finding the right places of the wires.

I like the recessed collars. My '91 Modulus Graphite Quantum has those. Can't see any issues with those. They feel and look better than those plates.

Sealing is not liquid resistant sealing. If you wouldn't get any help from Mr. East (which I highly doubt), and the reason for noise comes from the pot's track, you can soak that pot with lots of Deoxit and let the excess flow to a paper. Let that stuff act and turn the pot many times from end to end during the cure. I have an old Pioneer A-656 stereo amp from the 1980's. Its vol pot (high quality "sealed" Alps, by the way) started to cut the right channel. Two weeks ago I put a good amount of deoxidizer to soak the pot and turned it maybe 42 times. Now it works like a dream.

Put the bass to the table. No amp. Pluck an open G and compare it to that open C. Is there something wrong with the bridge or the saddle? If these are OK and the sustain is in the same ballpark, then continue to the electronics. Is the pickup height comparable (in output) to the other strings. If not, raise the C side. You may be able to adjust the string height slightly to adjust the levels a tiny bit but remember to check the fine tuning after that. If these do not help or you are not able to do the adjustments, turn to a local luthier.

Actually the thinnest (maybe not the lightest) set I have used is 18 - 50: https://www.thomann.de/gb/ghs_3045_lsp_p.htm But not for the ordinary tuning. It was in my Kramer Ferrington and was fun for few days. Sold that bass soon after the trial.

I started to learn music at the age of 5. It was that age-old piano and after 13 years of trying I stopped and made a wise change to my instrument. Yes, first I learned some theory and I learned to read music. Would I be able to compose? Never. My music reading skills are pretty much like reading a book, but I could not write one. I think that is OK. I can use Finale, Musescore and similar but just to copy something. Tabs I do hate, I am not very good at them, although sometimes they have a hint on fingering. Still score is better for me. One of my teachers wanted me to play an unknown song to me. I asked to listen to that (before the time of tube and so on) but he said no. I should make an interpretation of the score! And here we get to the point: the score gives very little to how to play the song. (It was some Clarke/Duke jam that is still foggy to me.) Do you believe that Mozart wanted his songs to be played like they play them today? No one knows! There was a very old man that had been in choir when the old master had led certain composition. This old man was carefully interviewed because the conductor wanted to record (technology just had made that possible) that composition just the same way as the composer had done. The score does have many issues that should be compared to a recording - if one exists! So my suggestion is to add that record to score (+ tab?). Then you can rely on some details that are written, you need to use your ears to find the feel and sound, and most of the notes. Too liberal? Probably, but I have heard that conductors do this, so I take the opportunity to do the same.

Oh dear, I had a similar Prodigy long ago. Happy, that I separated from it. Not MIDI and nevertune as a factory option. Funny thing is that they ask funny prices of those just because it says moog.

Two pickups, just like any other instrument with two. It is up to you to mod the Jag with the setup you are after. If you want to keep the pickup switching, you may end up in a situation where your bass is silent, while vol is open and blend is in the other end. I would certainly think about simplifying the setup. Many switches and knobs, many possible problems.

If you need an A/P-switch, you just need a DPDT switch and some wire to bypass the tone controls. If you do not want to make extra holes to the top wood, consider using a push/pull pot with a switch. A flat preamp should not change the sound of the pickups, BUT that low impedance (lo-Z) output may behave in a different way than a hi-Z output. If you drive some OD/fuzz/dist with your bass, the sound is certainly something else than with a hi-Z output. I found out this while testing different fuzzes and compressors a few years back. Now I have one set for hi-Z (Spruce Effects / Daring Audio), and another for lo-Z basses (Amptweaker / tce).

If you do not have a separate battery box, consider having some attachment to that 9 V thing. It may rattle. I do not like foam. https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-9-volt-battery-holder http://www.3dcontentcentral.com/download-model.aspx?catalogid=171&id=171614

The unit arrived today after our somewhat slow customs and post office. Shift-Line posted the package within two days after my order while they promised three days. Total cost including EU customs and VAT: 100 €. + Really well packed. I think you could play football with the box and the stuff inside would be just fine. + The electronics seem to be good quality, no tin balls or anything dirty. + The box is plastics (3D printed) and reasonably tough for the intended use. +/- Size could be slightly optimized, but then the knobs would be prone to hits. +/- 3D printing quality is what it is, but this helps to keep the cost very reasonable. Now I need to record some IR stuff and start tweaking. If the quality of the sound is similar to the PCBA, it has to be good. Might come back later with some test results...