itu

So Fender is a brand that continuously updates and improves the recipe that has been in use since 1948? Give me a break. If I would be interested in an "improved" jazz or precision, I certainly would not look at Fender, maybe Lull, Sadowsky, de Gier, Overwater etc. Better quality and bang for buck. My Vigiers have their serials furthest away from the headstock. Rickenbacker...

I find this twofold: the manufacturing year is one thing and when the usage started, another.

No. I had a bass with d-b-e strings and there were no length choices. Rotosound was the brand at the time, late 80's.

How do the double-ball-end strings match with the hardware?

For me that parallel or series was not the answer. So I split the freq range to lower (no effects, except comp) and higher band (effects in series). This way it is very easy to use the effects without mudding or screwing the low end. Brave new world.

If anybody asks me, I will steer them to find an ergonomic solution. 1) scale length? (estimated together) 2) style? 3) a used or a new one and why? 4) some instrument suggestions ⁸based on these and the price range. It is also reasonable to suggest: a) professional setup and at least b) new strings, a light set of 40-100 is a good start for a beginner, c) a wide strap and d) one quality silicone cable. I live in a country that has pretty big changes in temp, so if a bag is in order, thicker is better to reduce temp shocks. Last, but definitely not least is a test drive. I want to try the instrument and I want that the person tries it, too. This is just one way.

Exactly, thanks, my translation abilities seem to be louse, as these basic things got messed. My bad.

Recycle. It does not matter if there is some coating. That plastic related stuff and silk will be separated in the processes. Also iron, nickel, chrome, cobalt etc. can be separated from each other. That tiny brass part or bronze goes along, no need to worry.

You are on a right track. You could try to tune your D-string to the same pitch as your G. Maybe you lost that D, as it might break, and at least the neck gets substantially more tension to it. It has to put equally much tension against the strings to keep itself straight. Here truss rod adjustment helps. It is there for different gauges and tunings, i.e. tensions.

The core can be thick and the winding round it thin - or vice versa, and still you have two strings with equal thickness. But the mass may differ, and the force to tune it to certain frequency is different = different tension. Remember, as an example there are flatwounds with nylon wound. Again the cross section may be the same as some other set, but the ratio of mass / length is not. http://www.rotosound.com/tru-bass-88/

Pound for pound, the best P bass for me is still in the shop. Do not want one. Money saved.

I would like to hear your suggestions for training during one week. Sometimes there are moments to play hours, sometimes just minutes. How do you handle your week or a month and keep up your playing abilities? What is the material that suits your personal progression? A friend of mine - a drummer - said that if he plays at least 5 minutes a day, he can keep some touch to his playing. It certainly is far better than one hour once a week. So warming up, rehearsal, cooling down, or what and how?

Very similar was that short scale Hamer bass, but the one in the picture is a DR. Compare them side by side and you may see twins.

Paganini, but that is violin stuff and thus very hard. Dragonetti - the Paganini of bass - has done kinky stuff for double bass. Edgar Meyer and Niels-Henning Ørstedt-Pedersen have played some very hard arrangements. A local record reviewer had a doubt that NHØP was actually two persons playing two basses... A young player may find it hard to play rests, or long enough notes, or legato. I still do have issues with all three.

That Roland is uncommon, as all its channels are: 3 hot, 2 cold. Not everything that those chaps behind that big water do is always a good thing. Well, not that uncommon but I have not seen such a unit in years. You might say that it is rare (like people tend to say that on any bass, that has not been built during the last two decades). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector#Technical_usage_information

You may need to play a bit with levels, but other than that, you're on a right track. If the mixer/PA has normal inputs, 2 is hot and 1+3 go together because of that unbalanced signal. A friend of mine just bought a Roland mixer that has 3 as hot. It took a few minutes to figure that out... RING = red = right (fixed, thanks to @tauzero)

I actually do repeat most of the stuff that these gentlemen before me wrote already. Hope that my angle gives some light to the topic. Basically the tension is related to the string thickness + string length (= mass) and tuning. There are details in the strings that affect the tension, like materials and how thick the string core is. If you buy a set strings that are 30 - 90, they are very light. On the other hand a 55 - 110 set would be heavy/hard, compared to so called basic 45 - 100 set. But as said, there are differences depending on manufacturers' designs. Usually the feel between different basses with similar strings is related to the height of the strings from the fretboard and the neck dimensions (like 30" - 36") and if the neck is convex or concave. So setting up a neck and bridge are important. Remember that the tension is the same, no matter which way you string your bass. If the string posts are certain or the bridge has different holes, like through-body, these do not affect tension. If you think that the string is between two bricks (or vices, as @Andyjr1515 already wrote), there is no effect, whether the string is doing some curves after that brick or not, if the string behind that anchor point does not stretch. There are constructions that minimize that stretch like a double ball end headless bass. Check this chart, it may give you ideas and lit that lamp above your head: www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf This was my key to different tunings with the same tension as with basic string set and tuning.

This thread starts to look like... https://www.mavic.com/

@keziahj packed the IE FMeron well. He kept me updated with all details. The package and the unit in its original box were like new when they arrived. Deal with confidence.

Have you considered that your cables need some cooking before use, too? Try this: https://www.thecablecooker.com/ Basic version is 650 U$D and a deluxe around 800. A must-have! (I asked my kids to shoot me if I ever even consider such %^%#.)

You are not a qualified electrician, so if something happens, like your house burns, insurance will love you. They pay you nothing. It is possible, that the change is easy. The transformer will be changed and the unit is ready to rock. But there may be other components or the whole power supply unit that has to be changed. Ask some local amp manufacturer. Help is now in need. It may be wise to consult Hartke, too.