itu

Where from and how did you get that neck? Dorsch is everything but easy to reach. Nova (Andre Passini) seems to be from Brazil and he has only FB pages, am I right?

First I thought that your wife stole the new bass from you and plays it.

It is true that such a module may not be too easy to repair. Usually similar ones are not impossible to repair but it takes time = it has a cost. Who wants to try to find the issue, if you get no help from the manufacturer - and here I mean the original power module manufacturer, B&O. The single part probably costs £1 or less but to find the faulty component and hopefully the reason, too, may mean hours and hours of work. Naturally the company could offer some kind of replacement program in the name of recycling, but I doubt it. Machines put those modules together for that low price. If someone fixes those faulty ones by hand, the price may be higher than a new one. Mixed feelings? When Aguilar or any other shop buys thousands of those powers, the price is negotiable. When some Jane-Joe Ordinary, like me, wants to buy just one single unit, the price is naturally something else.

If you have so powerful magnets that you can hear the sound difference, you should avoid them. You may have to leave your keys to be able to walk away... Seriously, if a magnet is very near of a transformer (stuck to it), there may be subtle difference in its behavior. I try to think, which effect pedal might suffer from a nearby magnet but can not think of any. Cables do not care at all, if they are not wound to coils. Tubes can be affected but again the magnet has to be powerful and it has to be very close to it.

Bourns has these blend pots, where both are fully on (0 ohm) at centre. Double pots, markings are MN250K and MN500K. Check these from Digikey or similar: PDB182-GTRB1-254MN PDB182-GTRB1-504MN

If you get a beaten up "g-word" Marshall, just change the elements to bass drivers. Probably the elements cost more than a modern bass cab, but when in need...

I have been using Marshall 4 x 12" "g-word" cabinets in my youth. Worked really well. Very good rock sound. It is true that you cannot drive them as hard as bass cabs, but before you reach hazardous levels, you can get pretty much noise. Think one as a bass cabinet that just has less power. It is possible to cut the lowest end and drive the cab harder but is that the sound you are after?

Mine too... but it looks stunning.

@Soledad: Have you noticed the Takamine B10 in the classifieds? That might be a very interesting instrument.

I think that every time I use singlecoil (J) pickups in lo-Z ("active") environment, the sound is compressed compared to humbuckers. It may be so that the preamp enhances the experience.

Medeski, Martin & Wood - double bass, organ, drums

When my father was young (maybe some 175 years ago) there was a saying here that a local trio was a man, an accordion, and a chair. Please continue...

Is your RIC so modern that it has a push/pull pot to cut the capacitor from the pickup? If not, put a wire over the cap and test it again. I hated the thin sound of the other pickup, but loved the bass. Black, 1974.

If you are really interested in an acoustic, take a look at these to increase GAS: http://www.rigelinstruments.com/publish/abg.shtml https://jakewildwood.blogspot.com/2011/08/c2011-rigel-acoustic-bass-guitar.html http://www.stollguitars.de/en/instruments/acoustic-basses/ http://www.kbguitars.com/wordpress/?page_id=626 http://www.chrislarkinguitars.com/instruments-gallery/acoustic-bass-guitars.html http://www.sonntag-guitars.com/english/Archtops/Archtop-Acoustic-Bass.php Something smaller: https://www.bassplayer.com/gear/journey-instruments-expands-line-of-collapsible-carbon-fiber-acoustic-travel-bass-guitars Last, but not least is the guitarron (listen to Fairground Attraction - Perfect and Eagles - New kid in town).

https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/339780-bartolini-9j1-set-3-months-old/

acoustic, AER, Aguilar, Alusonic, Ampeg, Ashdown, Barefaced, Bergantino, Carvin, Darkglass, EBS, Eden, Eich, Epifani, Euphonic Audio, Fender, GK, Genzler, Glockenklang, Hartke, Hiwatt, Kustom, Matamp, Markbass, Marshall, Mesa, Orange, Peavey, Phil Jones, Quilter labs, SWR, Tech 21, tce, TKS, Trace Elliot, Vanderkley, Warwick... please continue (although not every company exists or has a 4x10" in their program).

It is feasible to check the specs (yes, SVT II is able to do that). Not every amp can. There may be thermal issues. See: P = UI and U = ZI => P = ZII => I = sqrt(P/Z) sqrt (300 W / 1 ohm) = sqrt(300) A = 17.3 A (4 mm2 cable needed, 17 V) sqrt (300 W / 2 ohm) = sqrt(150) A = 12.2 A (2.5 mm2 cable needed, 25 V) sqrt (300 W / 4 ohm) = sqrt (75) A = 8.7 A (1.5 mm2 cable needed, 34 V) sqrt (300 W / 8 ohm) = sqrt (37.5) A = 6.1 A (1.5 mm2 cable needed, 49 V) Voltage is not a problem because you can compare it with how fast the electrons are travelling. Current on the other hand can be described as the area the electrons need for travelling (hence the cable and amp parts needs to be thicker or they melt). While the amp has limitations to push current, the output power will become less when the impedance (the load) gets harder (smaller number). Usually this is the case and harder loads are not supported. Your 500 W amp may become a 20 W amp with array of cabs in its output.

Quite interesting, that the max SPL is only 124 dB and 121 dB @ 33 Hz. Not overly loud. This relates to pretty low sensitivity and 600 W power handling capacity. To get something like 130 dB @ 33 Hz, the power handling should be close to 5 kW. The amp should be able to produce that power, too.

30 - 50 - 70 - 90 from Rotosound. These are really light! http://www.rotosound.com/funkmaster/ Nowadays something like 40 - 60 - 75 - 95 (- 125) from D'Addario or 40 - 58 - 80 - 102 from GHS. Always stainless. http://daddario.com/DADProductDetail.Page?ActiveID=3769&productid=143&productname=EPS220_5_ProSteels_5_String_Bass__Super_Light__40_125__Long_Scale https://www.ghsstrings.com/products/11286-bass-super-steelstm?category_id=1964708-super-steelstm

Those pickups were some sort of double coils, as they only worked together. Probably the magnets were reversed for the other half of the coil. I had one years back and when I tried an ordinary J pickup in the bridge, the other half (G+D or A+E) was always out of phase. So do not mix as they do not match. The electronics were not fancy at all, I would seriously consider something else. An active two band tone capsule might be far more flexible than that simple Washburn preamp. I could not see that lame PCB in any original Status bass.

First and foremost, the sound is small. If you want some loudness, use an amp or buy a double bass. Don't be afraid of the fixed bridge, especially if you go fretless. Intonation is not an issue at all. Action can be tweaked with a file. Piezo reads any string that vibrates. Tuning the instrument so that the piezo/bridge parts work well may take few minutes. I have to say that I hated my instrument, a Kramer Ferrington. Sharp corners (think about your right hand on top of that bulky box), very quiet... I even tried piccolo strings on it and then it sang a bit. But the loudness (the lack of it) was the main reason to sell it. There was nothing I couldn't do with an electric bass. Some have said that it is good at home while practicing. Not me, no more.

Ordered it. Let''s see, what it is. Bought it via Reverb.

Have to say, that I love your work. The idea of having a fully parametric EQ in the preamp section is top! Many times I have had issues with different places: some frequency is dead or even worse, the other way around. On the other hand P-EQ gives many possibilities to tweak the sound of the bass. My Glockenklang Soul has very functional EQ - but it lacks parametric. I have a cheap para by Artec and it can save the place related issues. Quality it is not but can be a temporary help in need.

OK, to clarify things a bit before someone wants to put words to my mouth: It is fine to get THAT sound from any preamp or signal route someone happens to love. Me, I am after components that can offer transparent sound. I am not totally satisfied with my MG's bartolini pre, although the pickups I do like. I changed the hi-Z parts (vol & blend) to their active counterparts and the sound changed. Even the NTMB behaves better now. My wish would be an adjustable LPF, a parametric, and a tilt EQ. In this order. My Vigier Passions (series II) have a treble and a semi-parametric that I like. I could change that treble to an Alembic type filter circuitry. But before them I want buffered pickup outputs. It means that then lo-Z vol or blend or tone do not affect each other.