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  1. This is like voting for a EuroMP. None of them. Where's the box for that then ?
  2. Re the time wasters, I'm afraid it's just a part of selling. Reminds me it's a LOT easier to add to the basses and gear than it is to deplete. I do find FB the best of them at the moment though - I've had fast easy results several times recently - just so long as you are pricing sensibly. Also I am certain that decent pics and a detailed description help. I've been on the lookout for a second cab recently and hardly anyone bothers to put dimensions or approx weight. Usually you can go look it up but it's basic stuff. Generally I reckon a bit of effort on the part of seller makes for a better price quicker.
  3. Amazing attention to detail, particularly under the skin. Check this out, Limelight 👍
  4. Bloody excellent👍 One of my fave Who tracks anyway. Yep, it misses the sweeping basslines of the great JE, but good on 'em. Reminds me in their day The Who really were a very excellent band.
  5. @ped - just ordered a set of EBs - gone for the 45-100 for starters as I do like a certain tightness in them, mainly the E, and seeing as they call them super-slinky I'm hoping tension is lightish to moderate. Not like the Fender set I have cos they are brutes! Will report back. Thanks for advice, help 👍
  6. Have I ever met a singist? Can't recall Seriously there's only one right in this thing, and if/when he's wrong call him out. Always was popular, me.
  7. I didn't say that. And 'rubbish' is a bit strong anyway. In the global market for hardwoods, supplies have tightened considerably and prices pcm have generally about doubled (in real terms) since 2000. This is true of alder, ash, cherry, maple, oak, poplar, walnut, mahogany... etc. To be clear, makers are either paying considerably more for woods of an equivalent quality, using lower grades, or using cheaper alternatives.
  8. Worth giving more thought I reckon. What I gather of Squiers is play before you buy as they vary from quite good to silly-good. But this thing about wood, over the past 20 years the supplies of good woods has depleted seriously, so the quality of alder or ash or whatever that was affordable to the Squier build budget 20 years ago will be nowhere near as good now. All these woods have probably doubled in price (approx) in real terms over that time. And now we have issues with rosewoods - fingerboards becoming pau ferro or wenge or some other substitute. The 'farmed' hardwoods are managed to grow fast, the closeness of grain and consistency is just not as good. I think this makes a good case for looking at the older Squiers, and pretty much any other manufactured bass be it Fender, Musicman, Warwick, whatever your taste. I guess the premium makers still source really good woods and just price it in (Lakland, Sadowsky etc). How on earth Sire make those V and M basses to retail at that price beats me. But I've owned a V7 and I would far rather pay the same for a great 90s Squier if I was out shopping right now. Or maybe go the few quid more for an MIJ - upping the budget is just so easy !!
  9. I think that does this whole thread. Just play it, a LOT and often. Keep it on a stand nearby so you pick it up frequently. You'll soon find you are listening to pitch (not a thing you bother doing on fretted, generally) and feeding that back to the left hand. It's just time and effort (and decent ears I suppose).
  10. Excellent, thanks all. Know those well - use them on the fretless and absolutely ace on there, but I'm needing metal on the P, if you know what I mean... a harder bottom end. But the 760s are by far the best I've ever tried for my fretless. That's it Ped, I reckon. Is the first 24" just muting, it kicks in around 24. And what effects/processing in there? Super Slinky 45-100?? And what is the tension like? I assume I don't run them thru-body? No more questions I'll do some research, but the cobalts are probably my best first shot. Actually one more question, they do Extra Slinky 40-95. Given flats seem higher tension than rounds maybe these?
  11. I know there are plenty of string threads but I'm confused by the whole thing now. SO> Precision, flats but crunch on top (in the high mid/lo T area). I think I might need EB Cobalts or D'Addario chromes - but with an open brief for a bright flat of lowish tension - I found the Fender flats too high tension and I think I got the 45-100s - ooh!. Didn't like the Fenders as they were just thump, not much mid - pure Jamerson I guess. I liked the sound Sibob was getting off his LaBellas (on that P/Lakland demo he did). Tried half-rounds a bit ago, didn't get the point of those at all. But think lightish n brightish - help appreciated.
  12. It just WORKS. Just getting to know my Aguilar TH350. Hard to make it sound bad - you have to shift knobs to silly extremes. Its native sound is just GOOD. Small shifts in mids and drive get me where I want to be from the punching P to the fluid vocals of the fretless. Hooked up to the TC RH212 cab, this is a serious compact rig. Hot Sh*t. Sorted. Next.

  13. Putting any oil-based finish onto woods will darken them. How much depends on the actual wood as much as the oil blend. As said above all these finishes are blends of oils. Finishing a light wood like ash without darkening requires using a non-oil finish. For a kitchen table etc acrylics are excellent, for a bass probably spray-finish poly or cellulose. Can get all the clear cellulose finishes in rattle cans from Manchester Guitar Tech. From experience you need 2 cans for a bass body - seems a lot but most of what you spray on is the volatile solvent and that vapours away. You could also try Halfords clear car laquer which is an acrylic like all cars are painted with these days. I haven't tried this but it's well worth a go I reckon - this stuff: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/car-spray-paints/halfords-clear-lacquer-500ml
  14. Close. They're just THE bass of the bass world. And I ban myself from this thread now, promise ⏭️
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