itu

Certainly not. By the way, it would be easier to comment if you'd specify your amp by type and name. It tells more about the principle of the amp (tube, solid state) and so on.

First I write shortly about speaker load and amp, then I will offer you a possible, if not a working solution. Amp can push volts and amperes to a load (speaker). If the load is optimal, the most volts and amperes (multiplied together: watts) from the amp go to the speaker. Now the Ohm's law tells, that current equals volts divided by impedance (I = U / Z). When the impedance gets smaller, the current rises. Sometimes people think that lowering the impedance brings you more volume. Although the amp may see less impedance it may be not powerful enough to push that load anymore. Think it like that you go to a gym. There are two springs that you need to push. The other is short and thick (lower impedance) and the other is longer but more slender. Because of the thickness of the spring wire the shorter is harder to push. Yes, it would only need shorter distance to be pushed together but it is uncomfortably heavy for the user. What happens in the amp is that the current starts to rise and it heats up the power section. If the parts can handle heat, they survive, if not, you get lots of melt metal. It not uncommon, that the power section pushes less power to the smaller (and harder) load. So you get less volume. My slightly unorthodox option to your two cabinet issue starts from opening the cabinets. If the elements are wired in parallel (two 8 ohm elements in parallel = 4 ohms), you might change their connection to series (two 8 ohm elements in series = 16 ohms). Then it would be easy to just use one or two cabinets in the amp. I suppose that your amp is not tube. Tubes love exact matching. Usually transistors like similar or larger impedance in their outputs.

Are the wires colored, so is there a lacquer on top of the wires? Then you need some more heat to burn the lacquer first. Those are such pain to solder. If those wires are really aluminum, you should use oil to solder them. When the wires are under (or in) the oil, the surface will not oxidize and soldering is possible. It doesn't have to be motor oil, you can play with olive oil if that is at hand. You probably need to do few trials first. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmjdXKyDEWY Sennheiser sells spare cables...

Those two wires that have that white (heat resistant) sock on them are the heater's wires. Yellow-green is ground. It should go down to the wall plug's earth, so should be easiest to find. Red and blue may be the temp sensor - if there is one.

Soundcraft Ui24R. Fair price, some extra channels when needed, lots of presets (eq, comp, reverb...). It takes just few hours to make all the basic settings to all channels, AUX' etc. You can control it with your phone and tablet via Wifi or use a (big) monitor, a mouse and a keyboard. The only issue so far has been with wireless monitors: If they get too close, the Wifi network will not connect. Around three feet / 1 meter seems to be more than enough to keep it alive. The system itself keeps working but the access was temporarily down. There are two channels for guitar, too. Our guitarist was impressed of the sound. The price was around 700 € / £620 from a local shop. Our main speakers are JBL PRX735. https://www.soundcraft.com/en/products/ui24r http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/vintage/vintage-portable/prx700-series/prx735

OK, here you go: https://chemicalwatch.com/70930/uk-hse-reports-illegal-sale-of-lead-in-solders https://content.govdelivery.com/accounts/UKHSE/bulletins/211f52e I have read the necessary authorized information (sorry: in other languages than English, this is the reason I did not include the sources), and I have been working in the field (R&D in electronics) some time. I do not deny, that it is possible to buy it from some shops, but legal it is no more for us, mortal consumers. There are certain fields (military, aerospace, medical...) that can or must use lead.

Think about the possibility to change strings quickly, I think this is called a top load type: https://www.thomann.de/gb/goeldo_hw50b_bass_3d_steg.htm If you need special spacing, consider this and multiply it by the amount of strings (top load, too): https://www.thomann.de/gb/goeldo_hw60b_bass_einzelreiter.htm This needs some extra space lengthwise, because of two parts: https://www.thomann.de/gb/warwick_bridge_30116_4_g.htm All corners should be rounded, so the saddle screws of this bridge will annoy you sooner or later (as well as the lousy string width adjustment), but this is the model cheapo: https://www.thomann.de/gb/fender_vintage_bass_bridge.htm All adjustment screws like a little bit of nail lacquer (colour is optional), so that they stay in place better. If you want mass, put some steel or concrete to your bass body (just for that too heavy feel, it has negligible effect on your sound). The most important thing with the bridge is that it is attached well. So tighten the screws after a month or so.

And the names of the scientists were A. (Albert) Neville Thiele (Australian; definitely not Theile) and Richard H Small (born in the US).

While looking at these boards, I see a variety of markings, like those tapes. What could be the ultimate way of setting (and sometimes, forgetting) all parameters? I do use a paint pen (not fluorescent, though) and put small dots to the pedals. These help, too: https://www.thomann.de/gb/stompshield_the_stompshield_kit.htm I heard about a 3D-printed cage, sort of: https://www.apatura.fi/shop.html What's available in the market?

Juha https://ruokangas.com/ uses thermo treated woods. He has several videos, here's just one:

You have a DMM? Measure the heater element. Check the power cord to the wall, fuses, all connections... rule possible faults out, one by one.

I am using X-over (Iron Ether Divaricator, KMA Tyler) to keep the low frequencies (< 400 Hz) dry and the higher frequencies wet. If you blend dry and wet there may be phase and mud issues.

https://news.bloombergenvironment.com/environment-and-energy/uk-retailers-may-be-selling-lead-solder-in-breach-of-eu-ban-1 If you do a simple search, these news tell about ban, don't they. I do admit that the lead version is far easier and better, for me at least. I bought something like 1 kg of it last February.

You can use almost whatever that has some reasonable diameter. Within a box (metal one, so a Faraday cage) you may see X-talk, so distance or placement may be more important factors than the wire. But if the wire is really thin (Litz), it may act like a component. And remember those coils: if you have too log a wire, do not make a neat coil out of it. Cut the excess.

Resins are not so good to inhale so it is more than OK to open your window while soldering. A tiny fan/blower would be very nice. Wash your hands after playing with lead. Start with cold water to close the skin.

Some shops still have it and probably sell it. They may not know or care, that in EU it is forbidden to sell tin/lead to consumers since March 2018. It is not illegal to sell it to certain industries that need and have to use it.

Yes, I do change my strings far more often, too. Just an example.

How about a passive A/B-box, that has a level pot in the other input? It would be very easy to construct (few components, a box, some wire, three stereo input jacks and a footswitch) and then the change would be a dream. My Glockenklang Soul has similar inputs. I can connect an EUB/fretless to the other input and an active fretted electric to the other. One level pot is enough, just put the more powerful behind the pot (or a trimmer that can be set by a tool) and do a set-and-forget. I would use stereo jacks because it is better to solder the ring and sleeve together. If you ever happen to meet an active instrument and a stereo cable...

So what from Kind of blue. Angel Eyes by lady Holiday. The power of love by FGTH.

I had to learn these two to a gig in December: Madonna's Like a prayer, that has quite quick keyboard bass. It took some time to get the feel and rhythm. Another was Wham's Wake me up. Thank you to @TKenrick , who had put that to notes. Was somewhat harder than I thought but the notes gave me a good head start. (After some discussion, that was not related to my playing, the band did not want those, so they were "just" good exercises.) I do have to say that there are players that can play all notes very fast, but I adore those who only play the right notes and can use rests musically. Larry Klein is one. And AC/DC's bass&drums combo is The Boogie Machine.

This probably has a lot to do how the strings are played, too. Close to the bridge or the neck, slapping etc. One more issue sure is that how old the strings are: after a year the amount of gunk has changed the performance drastically.