B.Flat

I don't know if this is relevant to the thread but can anyone tell me if the neck profile of the 'Ray has changed with time ? I ask because my '77 ( purchased in 77) was stolen in 2004,, and now fifteen years, and several instruments, later I have bought a '91. which I like very much but I don't know if my memory is not accurate any more, or my old hands are not as nimble, but it does not exactly feel like the neck from heaven I remember ! To my mind it feels a little fatter from nut to about fret four. OK splitting hairs I know, but I would like to know if the old skunk stripe profile was as I think I remember it.

That is interesting. Another point is when I look at the underside of the pickup the poles are are pristine metal, and also the edges are radius-ed, not shear cut like the visible ends when mounted. I am sure non of this affects the performance but I would like to know why it happens. I have tried to clean the end of one pole with some fine wet and dry, which did remove some of the discoloration, but also reveals that the metal is not smooth but pitted.

OK, thanks for the reply. Now I did own a 1978 S'ray for 30years, until it was stolen (heartbreak) but the poles never discolored. Can anyone with some knowledge of metallurgy/physics explain why these later pickup poles do this ?

I have just bought a 1991 Stingray. The pole pieces appear "blackened", some more than others and most not so under the strings.(see photo) I cannot decide if this is natural ageing discoloration or if the poles were originally black. I seem to remember seeing photos of other Stingrays with blackened or non-silver poles. Can anyone shed any light on this for me please?

Thanks for info mcnach

Does anybody know where I can obtain a white Stinray pickup cover ? I bought one some tine ago from Strings and Things, who seem to have evolved or dissapeared, but foolishly sold it thinking it would be easy to get another. But NO, can't find one anywhere. Anyone got one surplus to requirements or have tabs on a supply ?

That is exactly what the registration marks on the back are for, this is a decal for factory production use. But they only work if the decal is face down, i.e. the back of the decal on the head of the instrument, the backing paper above it.

Points taken but the why is the decal reversed? You cannot easily slide it off the backing onto the surface, as with normal waterslide decals, plus the registration marks are on the opposite side. I have refinished many instruments, and used waterslide decals on numerous occasions, but the way this decal is presented suggests some other modus operandi. I think I will post on the TB site, might find a retired MM worker !!

Hello. This is really a question for experienced luthiers/builders. I am in need of a bit of technical advice for a refinish job. Many years ago I had a problem with the finish on the head of a pre-eb '78 Stingray. The good people of Musicman responded by sending me a new head decal. Before I had chance to get the job done the bass was stolen, never to reappear. I now own another S'Ray, and again I want to refinish the head. Problem is, when I look at the decal it is printed in reverse, by which I mean the back of the decal is the topside, visible on the backing sheet, (photos attached). There is also a registration line printed on the backing to obtain the correct positioning on the head, all of which suggests the method of fixing is to lay the decal on the head, backing sheet uppermost, positioned with the registration mark and then remove the backing.I am thinking that maybe this operation should be done onto wet varnish, and then wet the backing to remove it when the varnish is dry. I seek opinions and advice as I only have one shot at this, hopefully someone out there has had to do this previously.

I am not sure if this is the right forum for this question but here goes anyway. I have just acquired a '91 Stingray. My main bass from 1978 to 2004 was an MM Stingray, which was stolen from my car and which I have never really gotten over. I have a faithful recreation of the '78 preamp and I hope to resurrect the sound of my lost treasure. However the body of the '91 is swamp ash and much lighter than the '78 poplar body. I would like to hear from people who have maybe done this already or people who think I am wasting my time, or indeed anyone with some contribution to make. The bridge is not through-body but I can modify the existing bridge to do that. The main reason I am posting this is that I can not now remember exactly what the old bass sounded like, only that it was very distinctive, and this '91er does not sound exactly distinctive, if you know what I mean. yes, this all sounds very confused, and it is, but I would love to hear some voices and comments.

Thank you police squad, that is exactly the kind of detailed advice I was wanting ! Excellent!!

OK thanks for replies. BTW "countersunk" means an flat angle to accept a recessed screw or bolt head i.e. it still has a sharp edge but not 90°. a rounded edge to provide a smooth curve is a radius! So endeth the sermon, now hymn N° 139 in your hymn books omitting verses four, seven and ninety-six.

I have not explained myself clearly it seems. The base plate is perfect but ,yes, holes will be drilled and a radius put on the edge so there is no sharp edge to catch the strings windings? These holes and the radius edge will be bare steel,, therefore open to oxidation. So this newly bared steel will need chroming. The question is: 1) is it possible to chrome just this bare steel, i.e. holes and edges, without subjecting the whole plate to re-chroming ( this is where I ask could some resist ,wax or oily coating be applied to the already chromed surface) or. 2)Can new chrome be plated over the existing surface (chromed and newly bared steel) or: 3)Would the whole plate need to be taken back to bare steel and be re-chromed from scratch. I have a feeling that maybe bassists with a biker background might be helpful with this.

Of course Ant advice is always welcome but 'any' advice is better !!!