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Everything posted by B.Flat

  1. Hi. Thanks for the replies. I need to fill you in a bit more. I previously owned an IBANEZ RS924 bbass from 1980. I wanted to use a Stellartone Tonestyler; I contacted dan at Stellartone and he said that the unit would only work corectly if ll the active circuitry was south of the Tonestyler; Well I set it up and , for me it was perfect sonically. I had an active/passive switch, series/parallel switches for two DiMarzio pu's (P & J) I had fitted plus the two band bass/treble cut and boost. The Tonestyler worked fantastically well in both passive and active modes. Only problem was physical.the bass was too heavy for my elderly shoulders. So now I have a vintage WARWICK Fortress One, active, which I love, and I want to re-create the great set-up I had on the IBANEZ . Ergo I have a DiMarzio DP 126 set,, P/J, and have aquired a MEC three-pot preamp, which gives the same set-up as the original 4 pot set-up, but leaves me with an extra mounting hole for the Tonestyler. So now I need to know how to wire it so that all the active circuitry is south of the Stellartone, as on the Ibanez. I previously had a very clear circuit diagraùm for the IBANEZ, which Dan helped me to navigate, but I am a bit lost to know what to do with the WARWICK, if indeed it is possible to wire it as the IBANEZ. A bit long-winded but I hope clear!
  2. Hi BassBunny, thanks for the reply. However I really need the passive pot to operate on both pickups, irrespecive of where the balance control is set. Is that possible ?
  3. Thanks for the link dave_bass5
  4. Hi Ped, you remember me ? I have the Vigier Passion 11 N°. 278, probably from the same tree as yours ! IEMs are all new to me, can you tell me where to look for ones (make and model would be gratefully received) such as you describe.
  5. OK, jrixn1, thanks for the advice.
  6. Just to clarify uk-lefty, the problem is that I am told I am too loud, which is a result of my turning up the vol. because of my deafness. I need to turn it up for my my benefit but not mess up the balance for the rest of the band; As footnote, any adevice on suitable IEMs that do not break the bank would be useful, assuming anyone is still reading this thread !
  7. Thanks to all reponders. I am remiss in not saying that I do not require a full band mix in the IEMs, just my bass, and probably only in one ear. dave-bass5 has probably answered my question in his first response.
  8. Thanks BigRedX for your reply. I have read the online manual for the Stomp, but my lack of technical knowledge is the prob. There is a headphone out with controllable volume, but I cannot find anything that answers my question about IEM. I am intending using the Stomp for bass, and need the IEM (as simple as poss) to reduce the wrath my fellow band members heap on my increasing deafness!
  9. Thanks itu, I am trying this now, but not the shop conversation...
  10. OK, thanks itu and LukeFRC for your replies. First problem is I do not fully understand electronics but can solder etc. from a laymans diagram. Secondly I have a Lakland preamp and controls in bits, which I want to get functional but I need the simpletons diagram, with colour coded wires if poss, to be able to do this. So, it iis the original Lakland loom with MM & J Bartos, coil tap, mid F switch, output preset, B,M & T tone; Vol/bal and push/pull passive.
  11. I have been here already but I cannot find a diagram of the Lakland loom
  12. That is really great, BB, it looks foolproof to me, and I am greatly indebted to you. Thank you very much !!
  13. Hi, OK I am grateful for any help you can give me but only when you have time to do it. Thank you
  14. Well, Bassbunny, the bass and treble pots are 100K linear, but the rest is a bit unclear for me. Are you saying the best would be to get a 250k dual pot and wire it between the existing volume pot and the preamp ? If yes how would I do that. Is there any chance you could draw it on the circuit I included in my last post and post it back ? It is important that the passive tone works in both passive and active mode. With regard to the active bass and treble I would obtain an MEC dual concentric 100k linear pot and copy thye connections on the diagram
  15. OK ,BassBunny noted, I will investigate. However, since I posted I have thought that maybe all I need to do is stack the bass/treble pots and wire in a passive tone before the preamp. Having said that, I have no idea how to wwire it. Can anybody out there help with a laymans diagram I could follow ?
  16. I'll see what I can do, but don't hold your breath !
  17. Hi again Bill. From the heart of France, thank you again. You have been most helpful. I will suggest to President Macron you should be reccommended for the Légion D'Honour ! Brian
  18. Hi again Bill, I forgot to ask if a variable attenuator can be added to the circuit ? If yes, could you please advise me. Brian
  19. Thanks Bill, exactly the clear advice I was looking for, I am indebted. Brian
  20. I have had a message from H.P.Wilfer to say that the side tags (indicated) need to be cut off and that there are some tags on the inside also that need to be removed for easier battery replacement. So, question answered, and it may be of interest to anyone trying to add a Warwick battery box to an instrument.
  21. Are you sure about this BassBunny ? If you look at the photo at https://shop.warwick.de/en/parts-for-instruments/warwick-spare-parts/pickguards-covers/21524/warwick-parts-battery-compartment-for-2-x-9v-block-battery?c=3591 the lid is not the hinged variety, you will also see the side tags I mentioned. Tell me what you think.
  22. I am re-thinking this. I have been spoilt by the neck on my Vigier Passion ii carbon, which though I did not take to immediately, I now think is probably the most comfortable neck (and bass) I have owned in sisxty years (you were right Ped!). I can't make the Warwick the same profile etc. but after some very careful adjustments it is not uncomfortable, and I think it is better to leave it alone as it is in unbelievable original condition for its 25 years. The preamp mod I have now configured so that it is completely reversible. Time to get back to actual notes and music and avoid the rabbit hole of "perfection". Just further to the topic of comfortable instruments, the openening pages of "Bird Lives" by Ross Russell about Charlie Parkers' alto sax puts it all in perspective !
  23. Thanks for the replies. Yes, HazBeen, it is the slide-in trussrod. I have never seen one out of the neck, I did not realise it was bigger than the two-way.
  24. Thank you, that answers it, I have those marks so it must be cast. The only thing that made me query was its weight. On the Warwick site the brass version is shown to weigh 0.15Kgs, and mine just the bridge, without the base plate, weighs 0.156kgs. Must be a heavy alloy !
  25. Hi Hazbeen. Yes that is what I thought you intended and I think probably the best solution so far. Brian
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