Bigguy2017

Hmmm... tricky one this... The LH1000 has two 500W power modules, like a stereo amp. Page 12 of the manual says use a 'standard Speakon cable' - would this be two or four pin / conductors??? I'm guessing (!) that the 4 pin speakon out is wired as two 500W pairs, and in bridge mode you connect a single speaker between the 1+ and the 2+ as is usual with bridging stereo amps ?. Not enough info in the manual. LHseries_OM_EN_v2.pdf (samsontech.com)

So, if it's not alien influence what was it? Hard to tell now it's all OK again. Possibilities? Dry joint in the amp (input) bumped in transit. Send/return jacks problem. Amp fault - SMPSU not firing up. If it happens again plug a (good) jack cable into the input and touch the tip... anything? This is the basic test of "is the amp working ?"'. Tuner can be used to test cables - give them a flex all along their length. Plug a jack cable into send/returns... switch jacks can go o/c Try some 'percussive maintenance' on the amp - this can detect dry joints and loose connections.. Have a good look inside the amp - look for bad soldering, swollen/leaking caps, loose plugs etc. Why did the acoustic work? Cold just be chance + an intermittent problem. Can't think of anything else.

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Try tightening the truss rod a quarter turn - any better at all? Neck should (!) now be nearly straight... check the neck bolts are not loose. If the action is still too high, ) you will need a small shim in the neck pocket to tilt the neck back a little bit.

IF it's 'mechanical' bypass via the switch (a 3 pole - 9 pins switch) it could have one pole faulty; this would fit the symptoms. Try shorting across the switch. If it's all done electronically on the main board then it's something else... 😉 FET or opamp failure or possible just a dry joint.

The new Stingrays are certainly very nice, but they're not THAT nice to pay £3K for. If you shop around and bide your time you can get a 'Ray, with case, for well under £1K.

Could be many things. First place to start is dried out electrolytic capacitors. Have a real good, close look at all the electrolytics, looking for doming, swelling or leakage. A duff decoupling cap could be the culprit.

I wanted to replace the mute pads on my '88 Stingray and I can't seem to source just the pads - whole mute kits are sometimes available. So, I got to thinkin', they're only foam rubber pads... Sourced some EPDM self-adhesive gasket and after some measurin' and figurin' decided that 8mm thick and 20mm wide was ideal. Amazon supplied Neoprene Rubber Black Self-adhesive Sponge Strip 20mm wide x 8mm thick x 5m long: Amazon.co.uk: Welcome and after a bit of Blue Peter with a knife I had new mute pads. Work just fine too. It would be easier to do this at a string change, but slackening off was enough. I've got enough for a lifetime now... 😉

That headstock looks home made - the wiring clip string trees are genius. I've seen that bridge before - on a Framus or Eko maybe?

OK... To start, make up a lead with a jack on one end, for your amp, and a pair of croc clips on the other end. This is most useful for fault-finding... Clip croc clips to pickup wires (pup disconnected from wiring loom). Is the pickup working? - That'll be a yes... 😉 Solder pickup wires to volume pot (outside pins). Clip croc leads to ground and centre pin - does volume pot now work? Solder output cable to pot (centre and earth). Connect a regular jack cable to the output jack - all working? Solder tone control and cap into place - still working?

Sounds like the switch is dodgy. Many of the cheap chinese switches are prone to fail.

Does your pre-amp pedal run off a plug-in DC supply? If it's a regular double insulated power supply it's not earthed (probably has a plastic earth pin), so there is no path to earth. Touching the bass's metal work earths it via your body, and stops the buzz... Normally the pre-amp would plug into a power amp and that would be earthed. Take a piece of single wire and touch it onto the pre-amp's casing (if metal) or jack socket - touch the other end on something grounded . If this cures the buzz you could plug a cable into a spare pre-amp out (?) and ground the cable's screen to some nearby piece of kit.

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I mark the date on the new battery with a sharpie - when I come to change the battery it's always older than I imagined... The Stingray got a new battery two years ago and it's still OK.

As the other posters have stated, the only way that's coming out is to jam something into the nut. Filing/sanding a slight taper on the flats of a allen key can work. If you can get enough reach with a Dremel and a 'dentist' bit you could cut a couple of slots in the nut (doesn't have to be tidy) and use a large, flat blade screwdriver.

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Unbelievably good. Complex, subtle and tight. Makes all modern 'gridded' stuff sound totally crap...

Does the small chrome plate on the back hide the truss rod adjuster (wheel)?

Audio-Technica ATH-M50X are hard to beat for true bass extension.

Now make all the pieces the same size and repeat your 'experiment'... you'll then hear pitch change with density. And have made a funky marimba 😉

Round about '79 or '80 I started using Superwounds (the ones with the bare core wire over the bridge, like piano strings) on the Stingray, and really liked them.

If it's only a wee bit out then chop the spring in half - that'll get you an extra wee bit of range.

I was after a new Precision in 1980 and remember the price at £350. I eventually got a new '79 Musicman Stingray for £375.00 in Buzz Music, Hereford.